Not really. Besides, you're going to have trouble finding a solid wood piece wide enough for the sides. I would not recommend making a glue-up panel for the side pieces.
Solid wood can be used. You really need to know what you are doing. Best to use a "butcher block" material.
They may also not be as long lived as a plywood box, particularily if you live in a locale that has big swings in humidity.
Performance will vary from wood to wood (even among the same species).
I have seen some pretty nice solid wood builds.
dave
Exactly how Bernie did his Victor
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/191159-woden-design-victor-fe166en-3.html#post2611790
(these w FE166eN^2 are for sale since he has decided to redo them in maple for the FE166eSR)
dave
The key phrase. Given the side profile of the FH3, a glue-up panel will be very challenging. Sufficiently so that if one had to ask, this probably isn't the project to start solid panel glue-ups.
Hi Dave,
Thanks so much for the insight.
I do have the resources to join up a “butcher board” and cut to desired shapes but I think I’ll go with the local box store birch ply for my first build. I’m like crazy busy right now but planning ahead and learning as time permits.
Robert
Here's a picture of mine when I was building them. They are baltic birch with roll on truck bed liner then sprayed blue.
I'm using some vintage Cleveland alnico drivers from a trashed Webcor reel to reel along with some Dayton ND20 tweeters crossed first order at 8k to cover the top end. This has been a fun and great sounding project so far!
I'm using some vintage Cleveland alnico drivers from a trashed Webcor reel to reel along with some Dayton ND20 tweeters crossed first order at 8k to cover the top end. This has been a fun and great sounding project so far!
Attachments
A friend has some jordan JX92s - he is willing to give me a lend of them to try out, but its a bit of a job to go and actually get them (distance).
Can anyone tell me whether they are suited to the frugal horn? spec sheet here: http://documents.jordan-usa.com/JX92S.pdf
TIA
fran
Can anyone tell me whether they are suited to the frugal horn? spec sheet here: http://documents.jordan-usa.com/JX92S.pdf
TIA
fran
hi all - I'm about to start building a pair of frugal horns and my question is where/how to place the terminals? Also, do terminals typically come with the drivers when you buy them? I'm planning to order Fostex FE126En.
I presume I need to resolve these questions before I start gluing my panels together as I'll need to cut a space at the back for the terminals prior to assembly. (The Fostex website gives a nice schematic of the driver so I'm happy proceeding with the front of the cabinet before the speakers arrive.)
Appreciate your thoughts.
I presume I need to resolve these questions before I start gluing my panels together as I'll need to cut a space at the back for the terminals prior to assembly. (The Fostex website gives a nice schematic of the driver so I'm happy proceeding with the front of the cabinet before the speakers arrive.)
Appreciate your thoughts.
How big
If you were to put on a supra baffle to expand the outer edges and install an 8 inch driver in it???? What would happen....would it conflict with the back of the actual 5 inch opening going in to the frugal, would it totally suck?
I am finishing up my second set of frugals and thought about how others are making supra baffles to accommodate other drivers.....
?What would theoretically happen to an 8 inch full range driver.....Feel free to flog me now or later......
Jon
If you were to put on a supra baffle to expand the outer edges and install an 8 inch driver in it???? What would happen....would it conflict with the back of the actual 5 inch opening going in to the frugal, would it totally suck?
I am finishing up my second set of frugals and thought about how others are making supra baffles to accommodate other drivers.....
?What would theoretically happen to an 8 inch full range driver.....Feel free to flog me now or later......
Jon
The location of terminals was intentionally left off the design drawings to allow flexibility
I personally like to keep the internal wire routing as short as possible, and mount mine on the rear slanted panel approx 75mm from the top.
In line with the "frugal" philosophy, there are several very inexpensive types of binding post / terminal cups or blocks that can be mounted externally, I like using a 2" cup with 5 way binding posts as it recesses on enclosures' rear panels, and also allows a bit of a hand-hold.
If you're ordering drivers from major distributors (Madiosound, PartsExpress, etc) terminals wouldn't be included, but can certainly ordered separately. I wouldn't spend more than $3-4 per enclosure for terminals.
whether /how well any particular 8" driver would "theoretically work" in this design is hard to say, but it is likely that the fit would be very tight - at the very least might require another spacer between the enclosure front panel and supra-baffle
If you can fit them, maybe. and if you can make JX92s work, you are likely able to make A10.2 work. The closest -- size wise -- we have done is FE138eSR and it worked well except where it fell on its face from issues not influenced by the FH3. Used as a bass driver in a FAST with FF85wk, very good.
Try JX92 and report back.
dave
Try JX92 and report back.
dave
They're only 140mmdia, so should fit in OK I think, don't think they'd go back too far...
will report back....
will report back....
I mounted these terminals, which require only a small opening, 12 inches from the top. That distance still allows access to wiring after the cabs are glued up. They also look good at that location.
Gold Plated Banana 5-Way Speaker Terminal 260-302
Gold Plated Banana 5-Way Speaker Terminal 260-302
Thanx for the URL, i'd been looking for those on PE site (and not finding them) for some time. We use a 2" cup with the same posts (preferred over the solid metal ones)
dave
I've used those ones too on a couple builds and they are great and inexpensive 🙂
Scott