A plans update. It is version 1 but i am still calling it a beta until you all have had a chance to do quality control on it.
http://p10hifi.net/tlinespeakers/FH/beta/frugel-hornMk3-1v0b-300911.pdf
dave
http://p10hifi.net/tlinespeakers/FH/beta/frugel-hornMk3-1v0b-300911.pdf
dave
Is there a circular baffle that we should be looking at also? Is the reason for the extended baffle to help with phase or extend ??????? JP
As always, feel free to get creative with supra-baffles and report findings - but the arrangement pictured was intended a much as anything to accommodate drivers that would otherwise be tricky to install -
We designed our "kit" to allow for easy build with a minimum of tools / clamps etc - the front panel/driver baffle is inset (dadoed) into the side; any driver requiring cutouts approaching the 140mm internal would reduce the integrity of this piece, hence the wider plant-on baffle - which also allows for swapping out drivers of different dimensions and rebated cut-outs.
Adding an extra layer to the bottom
Would it effect the design negatively if I added an extra layer of ply to the base (making it 32mm thick)?
I would just like to have the extra weight at the bottom to make the speakers less prone to being knocked over...
Would it effect the design negatively if I added an extra layer of ply to the base (making it 32mm thick)?
I would just like to have the extra weight at the bottom to make the speakers less prone to being knocked over...
FE126En Centre 1st pass
I finally snuck some time to do a 1st version of the promised 4L FE126En centre for those using FE126En FH3 in HT systems.
This does not go really low (almost reaches 100 Hz), but is as good as you can get in a BR without the shape of the roll-off becoming a bad joke (a reference to a comment Cal made about the factory 10L BR).
To follow to make materials sourcing more universal: 15/18mm and 5/8 3/4" can be done. Also 9.5mm (3/8") vents.
dave
I finally snuck some time to do a 1st version of the promised 4L FE126En centre for those using FE126En FH3 in HT systems.
This does not go really low (almost reaches 100 Hz), but is as good as you can get in a BR without the shape of the roll-off becoming a bad joke (a reference to a comment Cal made about the factory 10L BR).
To follow to make materials sourcing more universal: 15/18mm and 5/8 3/4" can be done. Also 9.5mm (3/8") vents.
dave
Attachments
OK, now I'm cooked. I've been following this thread on and off for a while and figured this would be my next build. I just bought a used pair of 126e drivers for not much money (check the swap meet board and you'll see it). I'm looking to use leftover material from prior projects if it is not in bad condition, but I'll spring for a 4x8 sheet if I have to. I have more tools than I did the last time I built speakers about 6-7 years ago (Proac 2.5 clones). I also have a digital camera now, in fact I've gone through a bunch, so I'll take pictures this time as I go. (7 years ago digital cameras were not yet ubiquitous).
i built my first pair with CHP70, but i will make another pair with Alpair 7. i asked Mark when and where to get the gen3 driver in germany (or elsewhere in europe), so he said end of december in this strassacker shop. thats ok with me, but how much difference will there be between the gen 1 and gen 3 versions? only difference in damping?
I am thinking about building the MkIII, but I have been bitten by the OB bug😀 So before I start, I would like to get some opinions - how the does the sound FH MkIII compare with OB designs, I think I have read somewhere that the FHs are as close as one can get to open baffle using a "box" design approach...
Thanks,
Jaz
Well Jazbo, you have really asked a simple question. The simple answer is "it depends."
I've seen the Mk III, but would be interested in which Open Baffle speaker get's close to it sonically. The problem is that there are a lot of OB designs out there, but in the end the sonic signature is very room dependant.
Like any other design, OB's are a compromise (actually a lot of compromises) and what suits one room may not work well in another.
Best Regards,
TerryO
Terry,
Understood, I was just trying to get a sense if the MkIII would be able to provide the "open" or "no-box" characteristics that the OB designs are commonly known for, say in the same room. Again, just seeking opinions, as there can be no definitive answer given all the variables involved as you have rightfully pointed out. 😛
Jaz
It comes down to execution. One of the "boxiest speakers i have ever heard was an OB Iris 15".
Do a good build of the FH3 (using good mulyiply or better) and they do a really good job of disappearing
The way they energize the room will be different.
dave
Do a good build of the FH3 (using good mulyiply or better) and they do a really good job of disappearing
The way they energize the room will be different.
dave
I made mine some time ago and have been listening now for a few months, previously to some Needles which I thought were very good. The FH3 is in a class of it's own, I've said this before and I can hear the groans but some people are new and may not have heard it.
A brilliant and beautiful design plus the MA drivers go together to make something that is far more than the sum of it's parts. One of those happy accidents that humans occasionally create.
Jim
A brilliant and beautiful design plus the MA drivers go together to make something that is far more than the sum of it's parts. One of those happy accidents that humans occasionally create.
Jim
When you say "multiply or better" does that mean I can use solid wood for construction of the cabinet? Thanks
My primary system consists OB Tang Band W8-1808s over H-frame Alphas. I enjoy my FH3s in a secondary bedroom system.