I'm very intrigued, how about four together, no partitions internally with a single large driver in the middle, say an fe206en? I know this is moving away from a Frugal horn but it's interesting.
You would end up putting a driver with lower Q & Fs into a box still tuned for a 4"driver (because it changes to a half-wave design instead of a 1/4 wave design (length dimensions need to be double for the same tuning) it is theoretically the same as the 4 individual FH3), so you would likely end up with less bass than FE126En.
To make the larger driver work you need to do increase path length -- something like Vulcan.
dave
Funny enough, I've built a pair of Vulcans and love 'em, as we speak I'm finally after seven months finishing them piano black.
Happens most of the times if you've got a winner on your hands! 🙂
I have a question to dampning, would there be any effort into useing some bitumen on the rear of the baffle, behind the driver?
Still have a sheet left over from dampning the car doors its a nice heavy bitumen with an aluminium liner.
Still have a sheet left over from dampning the car doors its a nice heavy bitumen with an aluminium liner.
Not really. The panels are quite well braced, so it's not likely to bring much to the table.
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Bitumen adds mass without adding stiffness, lowering the frequency at which the panel will resonate making it more likely to get excited, and lower the Q making the resonance more audiable if excited.
dave
dave
1/2" ply build possible?
Hi!
Has anybody built this with 1/2" ply? I picked up the wrong size yesterday, guess my metric to imperial conversion skills need improvement...
Thanks,
Christian
Hi!
Has anybody built this with 1/2" ply? I picked up the wrong size yesterday, guess my metric to imperial conversion skills need improvement...
Thanks,
Christian
12mm should be fine. Depending on driver, you might need to double the baffle.
You can't exchange the 12 for 15mm?
dave
You can't exchange the 12 for 15mm?
dave
Hi Dave,
I guess I could try, but the only other thickness they have is 3/4". The driver I'm using is the chr-70, what's your experience with that one, double the baffle thickness?
CB
I guess I could try, but the only other thickness they have is 3/4". The driver I'm using is the chr-70, what's your experience with that one, double the baffle thickness?
CB
I would. Especially given the relatively deep frame of the MA units. I'd also double the side panels too, if you have sufficient material.
Centre channel plans for Alpair 7 & Alpair 7.3
http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/dMarKen7-centreA-070311.pdf
http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/dMarKen73centreA-plan-060412.pdf
dave
http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/dMarKen7-centreA-070311.pdf
http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/dMarKen73centreA-plan-060412.pdf
dave
How about one for the 10.2? The longer the better. I've been meaning to build one to match my Pensil 10.2s that will go under a 50" TV. Ok, so I only have a 37" right now, but I like to plan ahead 🙂
You get the standard one as a freebie.
http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/Mar-Ken102-CentreA-plan-060412.pdf
Long and shallow creates anumber of difficulties getting the damping to counter the aspect... see Skeeter's A12 centre build.
Custom variations are available as part of the planset.
dave
http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/Mar-Ken102-CentreA-plan-060412.pdf
Long and shallow creates anumber of difficulties getting the damping to counter the aspect... see Skeeter's A12 centre build.
Custom variations are available as part of the planset.
dave
With a little bit of dampening variation and thorough lining of the cabinet I was able to make as close a timbre match as I've ever heard without having all three speakers be identical. I am very happy with my shallow and wide centre 😀
Scott