If you mean the connector to the Cypress board, this part seems like it:
87606-810LF Amphenol FCI | Connectors, Interconnects | DigiKey
and the flat cable connector 2*5 pins is probably this:
101-106 On Shore Technology Inc. | Connectors, Interconnects | DigiKey
and the you also need some ribbon cable.
Maybe this hardware would be more popular if it were a bit higher performance. Compared to some of the clock and reclocker schemes going on around here, this stuff is a little rustic. So, I'm wondering, does anyone know off-hand if it'd be reasonably doable to slave a pair of the classic ADAU1701 boards, each running one channel, for a 4-way stereo system?
I have now sold almost all of my extra freeUSBi PCBs. I urge someone else to order the next batch and provide extras for others. To make this easier, I tell here how to do that:
There are other inexpensive PCB shops and most Chinese ones handle this same zip file without any modifications.
- Download the zip file from here.
- Go to Elecrow order page and select either 10pcs or 20pcs of 2 layer PCBs.
- Choose details. Defaults are OK, size os default 5cm x 5cm as FreeUSBi os 4cm x 4cm. I chose red as solder mask for a change as it doesn't cost extra with Elecrow.
- Upload the zip file as such.
- Choose delivery
- Pay with PayPal
There are other inexpensive PCB shops and most Chinese ones handle this same zip file without any modifications.
freeUSBi
@alouko
Thanks for sharing this short guide! That's the way to spread open hardware-projects to the public
If anyone's still interested in freeUSBi / freeDSP classic - we still have some freeUSBi kits and freeDSP classic THT kits available
Feel free to contact us on our website for further information.
And of course: There's more to come.. we're working hard to get freeDSP Insanity ready
@alouko
Thanks for sharing this short guide! That's the way to spread open hardware-projects to the public
If anyone's still interested in freeUSBi / freeDSP classic - we still have some freeUSBi kits and freeDSP classic THT kits available
Feel free to contact us on our website for further information.
And of course: There's more to come.. we're working hard to get freeDSP Insanity ready
For those who are interested in building the FreeDSP USBi board:
I have 20 USBi PCBs that I ordered from Elecrow. I'll mail you one if you send me $2.00 via Paypal (ernperkins at msn dot com) and provide a mailing address. This assumes you're in the USA. I'm not making any money on these so I think it's OK to use the Friends/Family option in PayPal.
I also created a public cart at Digikey for the USBi parts. The cart is a duplicate of the FreeDSP BOM except the USBi ribbon cable is 5 ft. vs. 3 meters.
Enjoy!
I have 20 USBi PCBs that I ordered from Elecrow. I'll mail you one if you send me $2.00 via Paypal (ernperkins at msn dot com) and provide a mailing address. This assumes you're in the USA. I'm not making any money on these so I think it's OK to use the Friends/Family option in PayPal.
I also created a public cart at Digikey for the USBi parts. The cart is a duplicate of the FreeDSP BOM except the USBi ribbon cable is 5 ft. vs. 3 meters.
Enjoy!
Regarding 1 in 4 out... I managed two freeDSP classic boards driven from one master clock with bclk, lrclk, sdata driven from one CS8422 and jumped to both DSP boards. The intended audio function happens. One board left, one board right. Goodie. Trouble starts when I try to boot hardware mode yet set addresses of the two ADAU1701 and prom chips different. I can change the hardware address settings alright, and if I recall correctly, even change the program ram of the alternate addressed ADAU1701,
Problem is, it looks like I need two I2C buses, as the datasheet clearly states that in hardware / self-boot mode the 1701 becomes bus master, ignores ADDRx pin levels, and looks for the EEprom at 0xA1... and that's that. You can't have two masters on one bus at the same time. That's not going anywhere fast.
I guess that leaves 3 choices, 2 I2C buses (and 2 USBis) , a switch to connect alternate slaves after boot up , or software mode with a uC. I'm not sure which of those is most reasonable.
Any other ideas, or do I have it fairly straight?
Problem is, it looks like I need two I2C buses, as the datasheet clearly states that in hardware / self-boot mode the 1701 becomes bus master, ignores ADDRx pin levels, and looks for the EEprom at 0xA1... and that's that. You can't have two masters on one bus at the same time. That's not going anywhere fast.
I guess that leaves 3 choices, 2 I2C buses (and 2 USBis) , a switch to connect alternate slaves after boot up , or software mode with a uC. I'm not sure which of those is most reasonable.
Any other ideas, or do I have it fairly straight?
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C20... (And other questions)
When assembling my boards I noticed a descrepency. The document links to a reichelt and digikey (.de) BOM. I basically reproduced the digikey BOM verbatim on digikey.com. The challenge is that the digikey.de BOM appears to have a 56pf capacitor by the reichelt and documentation say it should be 56nf. I assume it's the digikey BOM that is incorrect, is that right?
Additionally I'm having a hard time locating a 56nf 100v capacitor that is also ceramic. Can I use a polyfilm capacitor instead or must it be ceramic? The document also mentions potentially subbing two capacitors in parallel - is there a recommend value for those caps?
Finally, digikey actually sent me the wrong resistors. For R1 I don't know what they sent me but it wasn't 1k ohm. I had a 1k ohm cap on hand, but it's only 1/4 watt and the reichelt order is for 0.6w. Do you foresee any problems in substituting? I noticed between the reichelt and digikey BOMs there were a couple of places where the reichelt used 0.6w but the digikey subbed 1/4 watt.
And now the pics:
When assembling my boards I noticed a descrepency. The document links to a reichelt and digikey (.de) BOM. I basically reproduced the digikey BOM verbatim on digikey.com. The challenge is that the digikey.de BOM appears to have a 56pf capacitor by the reichelt and documentation say it should be 56nf. I assume it's the digikey BOM that is incorrect, is that right?
Additionally I'm having a hard time locating a 56nf 100v capacitor that is also ceramic. Can I use a polyfilm capacitor instead or must it be ceramic? The document also mentions potentially subbing two capacitors in parallel - is there a recommend value for those caps?
Finally, digikey actually sent me the wrong resistors. For R1 I don't know what they sent me but it wasn't 1k ohm. I had a 1k ohm cap on hand, but it's only 1/4 watt and the reichelt order is for 0.6w. Do you foresee any problems in substituting? I noticed between the reichelt and digikey BOMs there were a couple of places where the reichelt used 0.6w but the digikey subbed 1/4 watt.
And now the pics:
Attachments
Thank you for the replies about C20. I got a couple of caps:
An axial X7R, digikey 478-3145-1-ND
And a radial BX (which I understand is an X7R equivalent), digikey 1001-2024-ND
I think the answer is "it depends". You can optimize cost if you make several boards at once.
That said, here's my cost breakdown:
1) PCBs - I got mine from Oshpark. I understand that they're not the cheapest - but I like that they're made in the US and they have really fast turn around. You have to get three boards from them (minimum), and that set me back $62
2) Components (excluding RCA connectors). I ordered enough to do 3 boards. In some cases, it was cheaper to buy way more of a component than I actually needed - than to buy the exact amount. Digikey is really good about suggesting cost optimizations when building your BOM. NOTE: The digikey BOM in the document isn't perfect, cross reference is against others. I spent almost $200 exactly on components for 3 boards.
3) RCA connects. These were quite expensive - about $25 for all 18 I needed.
So that's about $287 for 3 boards, or $95/board.
Then you need to program it. You can get a suitable arduino clone for programming for like $10 - or buy a real one for $35. Or you can buy an AVR for a couple of bucks, and put it in a breadboard with a voltage regulator and other components and maybe save some money - but you'll still need to program it's bootloader, and get a suitable USB interface and it'll probably cost you more than just buying an arduino or clone.
You can save a little on the board if you don't put the arduino nano connectors on it. You might also not buy all of the resistors you need if you don't care about the multiple input voltage selections. But there's not enough savings in my opinion to justify limiting the function of the board.
Finally time... It's worth something - and if you're not proficient at soldering (I'm not), you'll spend a whole day making these boards...
An axial X7R, digikey 478-3145-1-ND
And a radial BX (which I understand is an X7R equivalent), digikey 1001-2024-ND
I think the answer is "it depends". You can optimize cost if you make several boards at once.
That said, here's my cost breakdown:
1) PCBs - I got mine from Oshpark. I understand that they're not the cheapest - but I like that they're made in the US and they have really fast turn around. You have to get three boards from them (minimum), and that set me back $62
2) Components (excluding RCA connectors). I ordered enough to do 3 boards. In some cases, it was cheaper to buy way more of a component than I actually needed - than to buy the exact amount. Digikey is really good about suggesting cost optimizations when building your BOM. NOTE: The digikey BOM in the document isn't perfect, cross reference is against others. I spent almost $200 exactly on components for 3 boards.
3) RCA connects. These were quite expensive - about $25 for all 18 I needed.
So that's about $287 for 3 boards, or $95/board.
Then you need to program it. You can get a suitable arduino clone for programming for like $10 - or buy a real one for $35. Or you can buy an AVR for a couple of bucks, and put it in a breadboard with a voltage regulator and other components and maybe save some money - but you'll still need to program it's bootloader, and get a suitable USB interface and it'll probably cost you more than just buying an arduino or clone.
You can save a little on the board if you don't put the arduino nano connectors on it. You might also not buy all of the resistors you need if you don't care about the multiple input voltage selections. But there's not enough savings in my opinion to justify limiting the function of the board.
Finally time... It's worth something - and if you're not proficient at soldering (I'm not), you'll spend a whole day making these boards...