If I can get my phone working, watch this space. Apple tried an update... it didn't go well. 😉Picture?
dave
Apple tried an update... it didn't go well
A problem i have not encountered. Your phone, i believe, maxes out as iOS 15, but they are still doingsecurity fixes for that. Good luck.
Closes Apple store in Leeds?
dave
Finally got around to see what this product was all about and surprised I didn't run across it way back when I was doing decoupaged purses, et al as gifts for the (then) women in my life. Regardless, I imagine I would have stuck with the water clear varnish I used, but wish it had been available in my prime 'tweaking' years.I just used white glue, since it was handy, ModPodge.
If the surround glue is “leaking” it should be clearly noticable with separtaion of cone and surround.
OK, not really familiar with Fostex per se, just the original Foster among similar, brands where they could look sealed, but weren't under pressure.
Something like that -it's decided to go semi-blank screen while partly locking me out. I think there's one in Leeds -we have a hybrid store closer by that I'm going to drop into tomorrow to see if they can roll whatever went pear-shaped back.A problem i have not encountered. Your phone, i believe, maxes out as iOS 15, but they are still doingsecurity fixes for that. Good luck.
Closes Apple store in Leeds?
dave
Hm,but thats conntact glue. I use that one sometimes to glue wood veneer to metal,also to glue wood veneer to bigger wood surface without press.Glues wood, metal, leather, felt, cork, glass, stone and many plastics
Becuose you need to put glue on both side,wait,and then glue them together,without option for correting position,it look to me that is easyer to work with glue like e6000 where you have time and posibility to adjust folie to be in perfect position.
My kind of glue! 😉So glue from Stanger, Germany contains: ethyl acetate, naphtha hydrotrated, acetone, rosin
It's a constrained layer damping panel scenario, so I view it that the glue sets how rigid/damped the coupling and the tin/gold foil sets its TL modes wave speed with the diaphragm reduced to theoretical pistonic action due to mass loading.I wonder whetehr it is the glue or the foil or the combo that does the improvement? Have you tried any driver swith just glue?
IOW, the glue (varnish and other toxic coatings in my 'adventures' in diaphragm/whizzert/DC tweaking) does most of the modifying and why I apparently dismissed the foil as just cosmetic enough to elicit the sample drivers, but pleasantly surprised it smoothed/'brightened'/extended its HF response, whereas I was trying to get the right 'stiffness' for better pistonic action, reduced HF breakup modes.
Where do you get self adhesive foil?So self-adhesive very-thin Al or Cu foil probably wouldn't work?
Foil can be very thin. No problem
I did also cu foil looks nice
I never tried self adhesive I do not have it and I do not trust this glue because modification has to last long time
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These DIY Alu foil doping of cones turn out to be better looking as i would have expected! Do you have Any before/after measurements ?
That's what I mean, the self-adhesive glue isn't thick enough. But it may help in tacking down the foil before adding a layer of glue for structure. Here's conductive Cu foil tape, 0.05-1.5mm thick, 10-50mm wide roll.Where do you get self adhesive foil?
Foil can be very thin. No problem
I did also cu foil looks nice
I never tried self adhesive I do not have it and I do not trust this glue because modification has to last long time
Attachments
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You are literally ´polishing a turd, in this case a very damaged pair of speakers.
They look like they were stored, face down, under a leaking roof or in a flooded basement.
Didn´t you notice that when you assembled the cabinets?
Where did you get them from?
I would not have built a relatively complex cabinet around damaged speakers, period, and you will not "repair" them either.
You are adding mass, big time, to cones which must be as light as possible (hint: full range speakers) and on the other side, not adding rigidity/stiffness to those cones.
If you want to listen to music, instead of "just doing something with your hands", buy a good pair for 80 Euro and call it a day.
Paper and glue paste is fine to repair a small (pinky or thumb sized at most) hole or tear, where 99% of the cone is still fine, not to cover the whole surface.
And hand adding aluminum foil is silly, there must be a reason no Manufacturer does that.
Sorry for the bad news.
They look like they were stored, face down, under a leaking roof or in a flooded basement.
Didn´t you notice that when you assembled the cabinets?
Where did you get them from?
I would not have built a relatively complex cabinet around damaged speakers, period, and you will not "repair" them either.
You are adding mass, big time, to cones which must be as light as possible (hint: full range speakers) and on the other side, not adding rigidity/stiffness to those cones.
If you want to listen to music, instead of "just doing something with your hands", buy a good pair for 80 Euro and call it a day.
Paper and glue paste is fine to repair a small (pinky or thumb sized at most) hole or tear, where 99% of the cone is still fine, not to cover the whole surface.
And hand adding aluminum foil is silly, there must be a reason no Manufacturer does that.
Sorry for the bad news.
Aluminum foil/fiberglass tape up to 300mm wide.Where do you get self adhesive foil?
Foil can be very thin. No problem
I did also cu foil looks nice
I never tried self adhesive I do not have it and I do not trust this glue because modification has to last long time
Attachments
I buy cabinets with drivers for 80€. And what can you buy for 80€? This cabinets with this fostex wich are not in best shape,play 5x better i cleaner then Canton Carat 30 and Dali Concept 2 wich are in perfect shape.You are literally ´polishing a turd, in this case a very damaged pair of speakers.
They look like they were stored, face down, under a leaking roof or in a flooded basement.
Didn´t you notice that when you assembled the cabinets?
Where did you get them from?
I would not have built a relatively complex cabinet around damaged speakers, period, and you will not "repair" them either.
You are adding mass, big time, to cones which must be as light as possible (hint: full range speakers) and on the other side, not adding rigidity/stiffness to those cones.
If you want to listen to music, instead of "just doing something with your hands", buy a good pair for 80 Euro and call it a day.
Paper and glue paste is fine to repair a small (pinky or thumb sized at most) hole or tear, where 99% of the cone is still fine, not to cover the whole surface.
And hand adding aluminum foil is silly, there must be a reason no Manufacturer does that.
Sorry for the bad news.
This is what i have in that house so i try and compare them.
So we are speakeng about diferent level spekers then 40€ per piece driver can ever perform.
So its worth to put some time,energy,and experimentation in them and try to fix them. If everythig will not work,then buying a new replacment fostex for 300€ is only option.
So i dont see any lost here. And goal is good sounding speaker,not just sounding speaker.
And beside all this,its nice to experiment and learn new things,is't it?
Not per se, just means that its primary improvement should be its TL modes BW.So self-adhesive very-thin Al or Cu foil probably wouldn't work?
You are literally ´polishing a turd, in this case a very damaged pair of speakers.
Sorry for the bad news.
While a part of me likes/mostly agree with your ofttimes (too) blunt, no nonsense, bottom line oriented way to view a situation; last time I checked, DIY forums in general and this one in particular is about answering others' Qs as best we can, offering as many solutions known or at least theorized based on well known knowledge and in a CIVIL MANNER only SUGGESTING what 'we' think/believe is the best option ALL THINGS CONSIDERED.
Sorry too that you finally 'got on my last nerve' enough to finally be compelled to post this.
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