Oh don´t worry.
Precisely, I AM exactly offering: "answering others' Qs as best we can, offering as many solutions known or at least theorized based on well known knowledge"
My best solution , based on more than 10000 speakers built an some 4000 repaired is:
* once crumbled, a speaker cone loses all integrity, because long fibers are broken.
Not bent, not stretched: broken.
No home made way to repair that, if anything paper should be turned back into pulp and re-pressed in to shape again.
* solution is to recone the speaker, period.
Given first World prices and wages, "parts are cheap and work is expensive", the solution is just to replace them.
Not MY idea, but the generalized Forum answer in those cases.
In fact when I mention some reconing jobs I did, even fully disassembling speakers to replace voice coil, dissolving adhesives so as to separate parts (I suggested that less than 10 days ago) to keep an unobtanium cone (say classic Altec/JBL, etc.) the general Forum answer was "why would you do it? Just buy another!!!"
Is there some kind of double morale here?
Am I dissed for "repairing stuff", then again for suggesting replacement?
* as for "polishing turds", that´s not MY expression either, I normally speak classic British English, but frequenting a US populated Forum, I pick slang and idioms .... and I heard "polishing turds" here, go figure.
MY way to refer to that situation, and of course I am self quoting is:
Now in this mostly American Forum that is a most favorite term , a simple search shows it appearing in 10 pages @20 posts each: 200 times!!!! 😱
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/search/674409/?page=9&q=turd&o=relevance
Did you react so ardently to those too?
Precisely, I AM exactly offering: "answering others' Qs as best we can, offering as many solutions known or at least theorized based on well known knowledge"
My best solution , based on more than 10000 speakers built an some 4000 repaired is:
* once crumbled, a speaker cone loses all integrity, because long fibers are broken.
Not bent, not stretched: broken.
No home made way to repair that, if anything paper should be turned back into pulp and re-pressed in to shape again.
* solution is to recone the speaker, period.
Given first World prices and wages, "parts are cheap and work is expensive", the solution is just to replace them.
Not MY idea, but the generalized Forum answer in those cases.
In fact when I mention some reconing jobs I did, even fully disassembling speakers to replace voice coil, dissolving adhesives so as to separate parts (I suggested that less than 10 days ago) to keep an unobtanium cone (say classic Altec/JBL, etc.) the general Forum answer was "why would you do it? Just buy another!!!"
Is there some kind of double morale here?
Am I dissed for "repairing stuff", then again for suggesting replacement?
* as for "polishing turds", that´s not MY expression either, I normally speak classic British English, but frequenting a US populated Forum, I pick slang and idioms .... and I heard "polishing turds" here, go figure.
MY way to refer to that situation, and of course I am self quoting is:
Emphasis on "less polite" and "sorry" which you are ignoringThat´s often called "making a silk purse out of a sow´s ear" or in less polite terms: "polishing a turd". Sorry.
Now in this mostly American Forum that is a most favorite term , a simple search shows it appearing in 10 pages @20 posts each: 200 times!!!! 😱
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/search/674409/?page=9&q=turd&o=relevance
Did you react so ardently to those too?
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Help requested: how to repair a vintage driver whose paper-fold surround has one spot (just inside the folds) where fiber has been creased hence "broken"? White glue underneath to harden while cone propped up to flatten the crease? Or insert small piece of (what kind) paper backing? Thanks in advance.
I was kind of forced to buy this 6x10 Loewe/DEW alnico driver along with its mate which I needed. Picture didn't show much damage at all but it is unuseable as is.
I was kind of forced to buy this 6x10 Loewe/DEW alnico driver along with its mate which I needed. Picture didn't show much damage at all but it is unuseable as is.
You can try self adhesive foil just report how long it lasts and stays in place.
Here you see use of very thin foil from the goldsmith in sandwich use.
Glue is nitro Zellulose also sold by the goldsmith.
Driver with double magnet and a paper box filled with sand damping resonances of the plastic basket of the driver
Here you see use of very thin foil from the goldsmith in sandwich use.
Glue is nitro Zellulose also sold by the goldsmith.
Driver with double magnet and a paper box filled with sand damping resonances of the plastic basket of the driver
Attachments
Interesting. I'm surprised a plastic basket had significant issues with resonance in its structure; most have quite good self-damping. Still, plenty of exceptions to most things. 🙂
As for the foil & other structural modifications aimed at attempting to fix them, it strikes me it's worth trying since the drivers were very cheaply obtained and being damaged, there isn't a whole lot to lose other than a bit of time and a minimal amount of money in obtaining the handful of craft materials.
As for the foil & other structural modifications aimed at attempting to fix them, it strikes me it's worth trying since the drivers were very cheaply obtained and being damaged, there isn't a whole lot to lose other than a bit of time and a minimal amount of money in obtaining the handful of craft materials.
A small spot, think pinky nail size, will not hurt sound if other 99% of cone is fine (not the case in OP's Fostex where the whole co e is deeply creased).Help requested: how to repair a vintage driver whose paper-fold surround has one spot (just inside the folds) where fiber has been creased hence "broken"? White glue underneath to harden while cone propped up to flatten the crease? Or insert small piece of (what kind) paper backing? Thanks in advance.
I was kind of forced to buy this 6x10 Loewe/DEW alnico driver along with its mate which I needed. Picture didn't show much damage at all but it is unuseable as is.
Cones, like most paper, are made out of a paste of wood/cotton pulp, some adhesive and additives, and "wet paper" sort of becomes paste again, that´s why it´s so weak.
If the hole tear is very small, edges almost touching, a plain drop of wood glue will do.
If possible apply on both sides, in/out.
Now if edges can´t get within a mm ¿¿¿, make your own paste out of toilet/napkin paper and a drop of glue, use it to fill gap.
Press it between fingers so it´s thin so as to avoid adding excessive weight.
After drying, colour it similar to cone with some water based black felt pen.
That is kinda acceptable in a woofer, which is "dull" by definition, has a thick heavy cone, etc.You can try self adhesive foil just report how long it lasts and stays in place.
Here you see use of very thin foil from the goldsmith in sandwich use.
Now on a wide range thin flexible cone speaker, such as a full range one, it will murder frequency response.
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Thanks for the suggestions. The broken-fiber crease just off the folded surround is very small but needs stiffening to play right. A small tear had been glued by the seller.... I will take pictures or attempt something after New Year's.
Now on a wide range thin flexible cone speaker, such as a full range one, it will murder frequency response.
As exemplified by my comments re modPodge/puzzlekoat, “thinned and as thin a coat as you can apply”. Add too much andf HF suffers.
dave
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