Sounds interesting. Now when i see how you do that,it dosent look so dificult.
Im sure gona try with some cheep drivers just to see what diference can i messure and hear.
Can i use E6000 glue for this?
What glue did you use?
Im sure gona try with some cheep drivers just to see what diference can i messure and hear.
Can i use E6000 glue for this?
What glue did you use?
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If the "greasy" rim is glue coming undone, especially wrong glue applied by a previous fixer, the effect would be like a leaky drum. Loss of SPL, no "Puck" when tapped, and scraping due to uneven force.
While playing (preferably a low tone sine wave), run finger(s) along the greasy rim very edge, with a bit of pressure to detect/close an air leak if present.
While playing (preferably a low tone sine wave), run finger(s) along the greasy rim very edge, with a bit of pressure to detect/close an air leak if present.
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FWIW, my 'knee jerk' thought WRT the discoloration is that the cones are separating from the surround, which could explain the loss of SPL and if the doping is the water based latex like used in the USA nowadays it could be the cause of the discoloration and also explain why its surround looks so 'dry' compared to the other one, though of course it could just be the lighting/angle, so wchang's leak testing seems a good place to start.
Regardless, recommend repair/doping both with https://www.parts-express.com/Speaker-Repair-Glue-1-oz.-Bottle-340-076?quantity=1
Sounds favourite to me. 🙂 Certainly worth trying! It's a whole lot cheaper than replacing the drivers...
I've dug out a pair of horrible old Eagle 5 1/4in units I bought from a local electronics shop about 20 years ago -will see if I can give the foil modifications a try, since if my usual ham-fisted self makes a mistake, no harm done. 😉 One of those I've been meaning to look at properly for years ever since you first told me about it, & never got around to.
I've dug out a pair of horrible old Eagle 5 1/4in units I bought from a local electronics shop about 20 years ago -will see if I can give the foil modifications a try, since if my usual ham-fisted self makes a mistake, no harm done. 😉 One of those I've been meaning to look at properly for years ever since you first told me about it, & never got around to.
I try play 50-40Hz sine sweep,and there is no air leaking oraund,both of them are great.I push them near to max,cone was making 6,7 mm in/out movment.So no air around. I evdn lick my finger to be sure😊
But,now i realize what that cener hole can make. Omg,what a sound. And air is blowing out from this hole like its fan inside,i can feel 10cm(4") from speaker how is blowing. This central cap goes down sure an soon. That must be big improvment to driver.
Yes,you are right,its not the lightning angle.
Right(bad) one,suspension looks dry and have big discoloration on cone,like some oil is there.
The left(good) one,suspension looks wet and is little sticki to finger when i try it,and cone have almost no "oil" stains on cone.
So it could be that it needs to be glued again.
Do i need to clean somehow cone before glueing?
Wrong colour for that. I have seen lots of leaked glue on the large number of FE103A i have had pass thru here, it is more brownish and looks like a stain. This looks like mold. I’d try a q-tip with some isopropanel and se eif it comes off before treating th econes.
dave
Why i recommend removing them and putting phase plugs in. The oil can resonance under the cap is being forced out the hole. With the hole filled with a phase plug there is no space for the resonance to form. But the short circuiting of the side-to-side waves in the whizzer is the larger benefit/
dave
Do you think i sould put modPodge also from back side,ring where cone and souranding are glued together,or just front side of cone?
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ZIG 2-way glue. You usd to be able to get it at Micheal’s (no online hit) last batch i got was from Scrap’n Stamp on-line. They don’t see any there now.
I might have an unopened one that i am never going to use.
FExxx and FFxxx should have 2 coats on the back side where the cone interfaces with the surround. This helps kill some of the resonance sthat travel up the cone.
dave
I might have an unopened one that i am never going to use.
FExxx and FFxxx should have 2 coats on the back side where the cone interfaces with the surround. This helps kill some of the resonance sthat travel up the cone.
dave
Had to look this one up, but just reading the packaging, seems OK.
Me? Most anything paper based = book binder's glue to me, but I'm so 'old school' from back when one's options were severely limited.
Finished, I fix it with my finger nails
As Barlow said, the composed material is much better than paper or metal alone.
As it is a paper diaphragm the damping is better than combining metal with polystyrene like Barlow did it. So this driver is a fullrange driver going up to 12khz.
As Barlow said, the composed material is much better than paper or metal alone.
As it is a paper diaphragm the damping is better than combining metal with polystyrene like Barlow did it. So this driver is a fullrange driver going up to 12khz.
Attachments
You can use Uhu or Pattex or this no name glue. It's universal glue for paper, metals, wood etc you get it at every store. Aluminium is dominating the acoustical benefit as stiffness increases and resonances go down