Hi guys!
I bought pair of fostex re167 in big conus boxes. I bought it becuose it was very good price (80€ for pair) and i like fostex drivers. In my main system i have 206en in dallas II horns.
So,after short listening,i realize that my L speaker is much much louder then R. I look them closer and then i realize that cone on the R is very demaged. Like you squize paper in your and and then you try it to make plain again. This is how it looks to me.
So,then i play with balance on amp and come to position 3 o clock where they play on same level. So its a big diference.
One thing what i can hear also is "old paper sound" like from old old paper cone speakers,where paper is too old and have no structural stability. That type of sound come only from R one,demaged one.
So,my speculation is that becuose this demaged paper,cone is always deformating and need more movment for same SPL in comparesent with one wich is good.
So my question is,can i fix this and how?
Im trying to find replacment cone but i can not find it.
One idea that come to mind is to make soluton of water and wood glue,maybe 50/50 or somewhere near,and to give a speaker cone good coat. Maybe 2,3. So the paper soak glue and make strucure more stabile.
What do you think about that idea?
And black thing around edge of cone is from black suspension fabric. Its also old,so its like melting the black color. But this is not problem,only visual,but with that i dont have problem.
That is L,good one.
Now R,bad one.
And merry Christmas btw!!
Cheers!!🤗
I bought pair of fostex re167 in big conus boxes. I bought it becuose it was very good price (80€ for pair) and i like fostex drivers. In my main system i have 206en in dallas II horns.
So,after short listening,i realize that my L speaker is much much louder then R. I look them closer and then i realize that cone on the R is very demaged. Like you squize paper in your and and then you try it to make plain again. This is how it looks to me.
So,then i play with balance on amp and come to position 3 o clock where they play on same level. So its a big diference.
One thing what i can hear also is "old paper sound" like from old old paper cone speakers,where paper is too old and have no structural stability. That type of sound come only from R one,demaged one.
So,my speculation is that becuose this demaged paper,cone is always deformating and need more movment for same SPL in comparesent with one wich is good.
So my question is,can i fix this and how?
Im trying to find replacment cone but i can not find it.
One idea that come to mind is to make soluton of water and wood glue,maybe 50/50 or somewhere near,and to give a speaker cone good coat. Maybe 2,3. So the paper soak glue and make strucure more stabile.
What do you think about that idea?
And black thing around edge of cone is from black suspension fabric. Its also old,so its like melting the black color. But this is not problem,only visual,but with that i dont have problem.
That is L,good one.
Now R,bad one.
And merry Christmas btw!!
Cheers!!🤗
Without being able to measure them, hard to say exactly what's going on. The marks on the cone appear to be moisture (or some kind of airborne oil / grease) damage. What you can see on the surface alone isn't likely to cause major differences in SPL however. Try very (repeat: very 😉 ) gently pressing them in a couple of mm. If you can feel something grating, the coil is out of alignment; that doesn't necessarily mean the drivers are scrap, but it may be difficult to fix. The cabinets appear to be related to Martin's old 164 project, so the FF165wk should work in it, possibly with a minor adjustment to the vent dimensions, so there is an option there if the drivers are unrecoverable.
The last 2 pictures show a significant crease. But that should not affect SPL much. More like a shorted coil. What is the DCR on each driver?
A coat of modPodge (both cones, to keep them simialr) will reinforce the creased area. You might want to careful massage the crease before applying. The modpodge covers the entire cone, and given the opportunity to add colour you can hide the “moldy” discoloured spots. On the driver with the crease a small bit of the same just around the crease.
Also the dustcaps should go. http://www.planet10-hifi.com/downloads/FE16x-PhasePlugs.pdf
http://p10hifi.net/tlinespeakers/FAL/167-surgery/167-surgery.html
dave
A coat of modPodge (both cones, to keep them simialr) will reinforce the creased area. You might want to careful massage the crease before applying. The modpodge covers the entire cone, and given the opportunity to add colour you can hide the “moldy” discoloured spots. On the driver with the crease a small bit of the same just around the crease.
Also the dustcaps should go. http://www.planet10-hifi.com/downloads/FE16x-PhasePlugs.pdf
http://p10hifi.net/tlinespeakers/FAL/167-surgery/167-surgery.html
dave
Thank you for your time and replay!
So,i try to press them cca 5mm inside. Both of them are acting same. If i press just from one side of cone,then after 2 mm cca i start to feel that something is scrape inside. If i push them from 2 oposit side of thd cone,then they go smoothley without scraping.
Can you tell me more abouth Martin's old 164 project,or give me some link please?
I try to google it but i didnt find anything.
Hi Dave! Thank you for your time and help.
I mesure them,on terminals,and they are almost same,the good one is 8.1 Ohm,bad one is 7.9 Ohm.
I like your idea with mod podge coat. I notice one more thing now.
When i hit cone with my finger,the good one make double SPL pok! then bad one. All logic what i have said to me that must be something with cone. Like is to "gummy" or to structural weak.
What type of colour can i add to mod podge?
And dust cap surgerey is in plan,and its also good practice before i collect courage to cut caps from my fe206en.
Do you recomend cuting dust cap off before mod podge or after aplaying mod podge?
The 2 coils are very similar which works against the idea that the coil is burned, but it is quite high. Perhaps some crap has gotten into, or drown in the VC area?
The cone causing as much SPL loss seems strange.
ModPodge before or after dustcap removed, doesn’t really matter, i always lost the caps first and a tiny bit of modpodge on the area where the DC attached.
Colours: the ones i have tried can be seen on any FExxx in this thread: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/its-not-easy-being-green-just-pictures.213294/
dave
The cone causing as much SPL loss seems strange.
ModPodge before or after dustcap removed, doesn’t really matter, i always lost the caps first and a tiny bit of modpodge on the area where the DC attached.
Colours: the ones i have tried can be seen on any FExxx in this thread: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/its-not-easy-being-green-just-pictures.213294/
dave
Thanks Dave! I think im gona try to see if there is any crap inside. But now when i see what are you doing with drivers...wow!! I love it! Now im gona put some modpodge if nothing else,to make them beautiful. Your work is amaizing! Grey variants looks perfect! What type of pigment you mix with modpodge?
Do search out where i descibe the actual procedure. You meed to thing the modPodge a bit, but not too much. As thin a coat a syou can do.
dave
dave
You can try out to cover the diaphragm with aluminium foil. At least the diaphragm without the double cone. However this will add maybe one gramm of weight to the cone but the sound will become much better.
You can just use normal glue and aluminium foil used for cooking.
But if there is a scrapping voice coil it is not worth the work. As this is a nogo for every loudspeaker.
D.A. Barlow on putting aluminium to loudspeaker diaphragms:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ow-off-my-new-18in-build.365764/#post-6741724
D.A. Barlow: The Development of a Sandwich-Construction Loudspeaker System. Page 159-171. From the AES anthology of articles on loudspeakers, article written 1970
You can just use normal glue and aluminium foil used for cooking.
But if there is a scrapping voice coil it is not worth the work. As this is a nogo for every loudspeaker.
D.A. Barlow on putting aluminium to loudspeaker diaphragms:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ow-off-my-new-18in-build.365764/#post-6741724
D.A. Barlow: The Development of a Sandwich-Construction Loudspeaker System. Page 159-171. From the AES anthology of articles on loudspeakers, article written 1970
Attachments
Hm,im searching but i can not find the procedure. Can you please give link?
I already find modPodge,i will go with matt variant.
Huh,thanks for advice,but i will stick to Daves variant with modPodge. It looks to dificult for begginer level to glue aluminium folie niceley to cone. Its a big chance i destroy cone.
But its a very interesting method.
I can try to find, but won’t be able to do that till i get back from town.
They are usually associated with FF165wk or FF85wk,
dave
Early on, on the original FR forum this came up and an East European? DIYer* 'out of nowhere' sent me two sets of very inexpensive 'FR' clock/table radio? drivers, one stock, one tweaked that among others had the tin (gold?/one of each?) foil coating, which BTW wasn't very smooth, yet the sonic difference was incredible in nothing but good ways, so while I've yet to measure them, can't recommend this tweak often enough, yet folk's resistance to it was sufficient enough over time for me to long ago quit wasting my time.
Personally only did it once just to see if it was too hard and wasn't, but that was before the arthritis/'shakes' rendered my hands useless for tedious, etc., apps, but otherwise only need a typical amount of manual dexterity and/or have a willing youngster, preferably female to do it.
* At this late I'd have to find the box and hope there's 'something' in/on it to remind me as the correspondence is long gone now.