Cal, this is the peel-n-stick stuff. I have seen the flat-roof stuff that is installed with a torch. That is some wicked-nasty stuff.
In the spirit of this thread, I thought of using this stuff because it can be picked up for free rather easily in my neighborhood. There are still folks getting roofs replaced regularly due to a monstroush hail storm we had. I saw a bunch of it laying by the curb and picked up about eight sheets of it to see what it would do. I get that it would not be perfect for damping and has other issues, but for goodness sake! We are talking about foam-core enclosures. If I spent a ton on apple-ply or even used MDF and was going to install $500 worth of drivers and another $300 in crossover components, yes I would get the best of the best to dampen critical spots. I am talking about $6 worth of foam core and $2 worth of drivers. Free goes into my equations quite nicely and if it dries out in five years and/or smells funn, or whatever, I will throw away my $6 investment and try something else...
In the spirit of this thread, I thought of using this stuff because it can be picked up for free rather easily in my neighborhood. There are still folks getting roofs replaced regularly due to a monstroush hail storm we had. I saw a bunch of it laying by the curb and picked up about eight sheets of it to see what it would do. I get that it would not be perfect for damping and has other issues, but for goodness sake! We are talking about foam-core enclosures. If I spent a ton on apple-ply or even used MDF and was going to install $500 worth of drivers and another $300 in crossover components, yes I would get the best of the best to dampen critical spots. I am talking about $6 worth of foam core and $2 worth of drivers. Free goes into my equations quite nicely and if it dries out in five years and/or smells funn, or whatever, I will throw away my $6 investment and try something else...
Which $2 drivers are you playing with? The Madisound Aurasound NS3 16 ohm'ers?
I agree that free or cheap, and ability to throw away definitely play into the equation. If I can figure out a cheap, functional, nice looking way to make DIY speaker binding posts rather than pay $3 to $5 ea, I am all over that. Maybe just plain brass bolts and washers/wingnuts poking through the foam core as the binding posts? Buy a bag of a dozen at Home Depot?
I agree that free or cheap, and ability to throw away definitely play into the equation. If I can figure out a cheap, functional, nice looking way to make DIY speaker binding posts rather than pay $3 to $5 ea, I am all over that. Maybe just plain brass bolts and washers/wingnuts poking through the foam core as the binding posts? Buy a bag of a dozen at Home Depot?
I am using the Radio Shack 40-1354's that I bought at a garage sale a week or so ago for $1 a piece. My binding posts? 16" of lamp cord hanging out the back....yeah, my speakers all have tails...
I forgot you lucked out with those 1354's you lucky duck. I wish I could find deals like that 🙁
I have tails on a lot of my speakers too but the ones I made with binding posts are so much easier to use. I will have to try my bolt and wingnut idea. I think if you put the bolts through a small piece of wood or panel board say 1 x 2 in wth holes drilled in them, that can be hot melt glued to the FC speaker and will make a nice solid base for the bolts to hold. I like to use crimped split spade connectors anyway and that will work perfectly with bolts and wingnuts. For small full range driers, 16 AWG is overkill and I think many people on this forum advocate solid strand small gauge wire like 24 AWG or 22 AWG like that found inside CAT5 cables. It's all you need for nice sound with a full ranger and less bulky than 16 AWG lamp cord.
I have tails on a lot of my speakers too but the ones I made with binding posts are so much easier to use. I will have to try my bolt and wingnut idea. I think if you put the bolts through a small piece of wood or panel board say 1 x 2 in wth holes drilled in them, that can be hot melt glued to the FC speaker and will make a nice solid base for the bolts to hold. I like to use crimped split spade connectors anyway and that will work perfectly with bolts and wingnuts. For small full range driers, 16 AWG is overkill and I think many people on this forum advocate solid strand small gauge wire like 24 AWG or 22 AWG like that found inside CAT5 cables. It's all you need for nice sound with a full ranger and less bulky than 16 AWG lamp cord.
The peel and stick is the one that will off gas and has enough solvents to affect the foam. I would tape over any exposed areas, like the edges, before applying it.
The 1354's I use as extended range drivers for my livingroom TV.
The 1354's I use as extended range drivers for my livingroom TV.
Last order of 50 drivers, they sent out these, not the NS3's. Not sure it makes a difference though.
https://crossaudio.com.au/cacc/speaker-drivers/3-fullrange-driver.html
My wife says I have a lot of those.
Well, I have about 2000' of cat5 left over, I could definitely use that on the smaller stuff. I also have over 1000' of 14 ga black lamp cord (used for outdoor low-voltage), so just use what I have laying around.
Why not get some 1/4" bolts, a bag of fender washers, and a bag of nuts? You can even get brass ones.
Or, you could just pony up $10 and order 20 of these
Why not get some 1/4" bolts, a bag of fender washers, and a bag of nuts? You can even get brass ones.
Or, you could just pony up $10 and order 20 of these
That's a good price - I don't care that they don't take banana plugs as I never used that anyway. What is shipping like from these guys and have you bought from them before? Thanks for pointing this item out. 50 cents a pair is very tough to beat even with bolts and wingnuts.
This thing would be pretty cool to build a scale model in FC. Maybe 6 in driver for biggest one and 3 in and 2 in drivers with piezo tweeters. Mount in an large RC car with SLA's or lipo's with class D amps.
😀
Where do you find this stuff? I think you showed us the underground worlds largest sub that did 110 dB at 10 Hz at 1watt/1m.
😀
Where do you find this stuff? I think you showed us the underground worlds largest sub that did 110 dB at 10 Hz at 1watt/1m.
Mostly by accident while looking for something else. This one came from searching for specs for a True Copper cap - which were used in some crossovers - that were posted on a speaker site - that had a link that was too interesting not to investigate - Whew!!
Another fun thing to try is, while doing a Google search, in the results there is usually a "Images of......." link related to the query, often with hundreds of photos and links. Sometimes you find a gem or two. 🙄
Thank you Ryan. I had to borrow these drivers from another set of speakers to try them out. Looks like I will have to order some more Vifa's to play with.
I've put together a couple of foam core fun speakers.
The sound coming thru the foamcore at high levels bothers me.
Has any body built a FC box around the FC box with about a 1/4 inch air space between the 2? Both boxes sharing the same baffle.
Would this work?
Fill with sand instead of air? (I like air its free) A vacuum might be best but hard to achieve.
The sound coming thru the foamcore at high levels bothers me.
Has any body built a FC box around the FC box with about a 1/4 inch air space between the 2? Both boxes sharing the same baffle.
Would this work?
Fill with sand instead of air? (I like air its free) A vacuum might be best but hard to achieve.
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Yes, it will work. Sand would probably work but might be a mess. You might try what I did with plumbers' putty descibed in post 1650 here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/223313-foam-core-board-speaker-enclosures-165.html#post3467972
Quick update on the spiral cornu progress. I used the existing design as an underlay and did a first pass at the spiral using arc sections (see pic1, blue highlight). Then I mapped the clothoid (hyperbolic) over top of it. It turns out to be pretty close once you use the right part of the clothoid curve (see pic2, orange highlight). The cool part about the equation is that the wall curvature is now totally smooth. Seems close enough to me - what do you think?
