Hi. I have some availability coming up for freelance loudspeaker design work and should be able to help you with your design. Please do message me directly.
you may think that i am crazy but i am building OMA Monarch speakers to listen at home, that's why i choose compression driver and also i want all in one system with bass (and price tag 300 000 is too Mutch i want to build good speakers with my hands and small budget 😉
you guys helped me well and i need recommendations to achieve this design with normal sound
You are surprised that a modern driver 3x more expensive performs better than a 25 year old smaller one which is known to perform badly?
A Celestion CD1X 1747 can also be used down to 700Hz. I will try 500Hz on my HR90, that is if I can solve my grief with the adapters.
I'm appalled you suggest something you have no experience with to someone who really needs help and is obviously very short on money and whose money goes down the drain - and just to argue to 'win' an argument! That's not a behavior a moderator should ever display!
Okay, what's your budget? Aside from the optics, which are the most important traits the speakers should have?
As you've bought the compression driver, are you going to use it in the manufacturer measured horn being an Eminence H290S ? If not, you'll need your own measurements.
Are you after a 2 way or 3 way speaker?
How deep in bass do you want it do go? In other words, do you want satisfying bass without a subwoofer?
How much amplification do you have (watts into 8 and 4 ohms)? Is it 4 ohm friendly?
Are you after a 2 way or 3 way speaker?
How deep in bass do you want it do go? In other words, do you want satisfying bass without a subwoofer?
How much amplification do you have (watts into 8 and 4 ohms)? Is it 4 ohm friendly?
Okay, my budget is as small as possible like 150$ per speaker set just speakers and crossover (without box) i want to go with 2-way speaker, i want satisfying bass ( i am looking forward building separate subwoofer) i will run this speaker with AV receiver maybe 8-ohm load. (100-130 watt per channel)
The blue line that corresponds to the magnitude response appears at different frequencies in your crossover's simulation results. You may have got the frequency limits wrong. If so, you will need to redo the digitization process.
Also, you do need to trace the red line, as it includes the phase response information that is required to ensure that the simulations are accurate. Both the magnitude and phase response of the driver's impedance is needed.
@buadze007 I can vouch for this user. He's active on other forums I participate in and his designs methods are solid.
I don't know him but if he's capable (which I don't have a reason to doubt), it's likely worth to spend some of the budget on it.
This is just an attempt with traced FR/Z, so it is what it is, a starting point. I used this woofer by FaitalPro
https://www.axiomedia.it/it/midwoofer/10/10fe200-mid-woofer-10-faitalpro-ferrite-8ohm.html
Cabinet is a closed box of 50L stuffed and baffle is 40x60cm.
The voltage divider looks strange, odd values, really 2 Ohm parallel to the CD?
The simulation looks good though.
E: just had a look into the datasheet, with just 2 mm Xmax (12mm winding-8mm pole plate) /2 and sealed it won't make much bass.
E2: That seems to be a guitar speaker
The simulation looks good though.
E: just had a look into the datasheet, with just 2 mm Xmax (12mm winding-8mm pole plate) /2 and sealed it won't make much bass.
E2: That seems to be a guitar speaker
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Yes, the CD is 105 dB at 3kHz and besides the R in parallel damps the resonance of the ZR curve: anyway, the impedance curve at high frequency looks fine.
The Xmax of the 10FE200 is 4,67mm and with 27W you have 108 db at Xmax. Plenty enough for domestic use.
I know that bass extension is not that much (F3 at 68Hz), but the OP said he want to build a sub so I didn't care about it.
@Michael Chua at amplabs used the 4 Ohm version of this woofer in a 45L BR with a selenium CD in this project
https://ampslab-spk.com/2021/07/07/condor3/
The Xmax of the 10FE200 is 4,67mm and with 27W you have 108 db at Xmax. Plenty enough for domestic use.
I know that bass extension is not that much (F3 at 68Hz), but the OP said he want to build a sub so I didn't care about it.
@Michael Chua at amplabs used the 4 Ohm version of this woofer in a 45L BR with a selenium CD in this project
https://ampslab-spk.com/2021/07/07/condor3/
Thank you very much for your hard work <3 if i build this will it sound like it should? i have one question it is related to CD at the and it is hi dip in 17K region will i hear this, or no? Also, i have experimented with 8-inch midrange driver as you recommended but still i can`t crate flat response as you did with your build @shadowplay62
i used
i used
Dayton Audio MB820-8 8" Professional High Power Midbass Driver 8 Ohm but i don`t know what's the problem? i made crossover at 2800 Hz
The mathematical Xmax is calculated
Xmax= [(winding depth - magnetic gap depth)/2]
--> X-max
Both values from the datasheet:
(12mm - 8mm) / 2 = 2mm
That's not very satisfying, it's as loud as a Teufel Boomster BT speaker.
Their drivers are great but that makes the data on the Xmax not correct, no matter if they add more than the actual Xmax on top of the mathematical result. They should just stop the marketing lies. That's the same as on the tiny PC speakers with "300W PMPO" .
I have updated the project with the DA woofer.
- The cabinet is a 20L bass reflex, tuned at 69Hz (vent D=8 / L=9,6cm).
- Baffle is 24x44cm and the woofer centre is at 20cm from the bottom of the baffle. The distance W-T is 22cm.
- All the FR are manipulated with the Diffraction tool to simulate the response on baffle.
I also attached the frd/zma and the VituixCad2 project files I used.
Remember that this is just a simulation and, besides, the horn used in the datasheet of the compression driver posted above is likely different from what you have/will buy. So, if you have the possibility, make your own set of measurements.