Best option to protect your speakers is using a DC protection system with a relay.
This also will eliminate any noise at the speakers when turning ON/OFF the amplifier.
This also will eliminate any noise at the speakers when turning ON/OFF the amplifier.
Hi Pinnocchio,
By the sound of it, it appears you aren't using LC's DC protection device but an other, more complete solution perhaps? If so, which one?
On an other note, on all the nice builds I don't see any DC protection cap at the FO's input. As of me, I try to have as few DC caps as possible in my system, so I have none of them in my components bare only at my amp's entry, as you never know who might want to plug into (I have a passive pre).
How did you guys deal with that DC input problem, as I understand that the FO doesn't reject DC at the input...
Many thanks, interesting thread!
Claude
PS: to Pinnocchio, clever vertical SMPS implementation of yours, congrats
There's a few speaker protections I've used through the years, two of them are on Jim's Audio eBay site and the other one is Mirand's Audio speaker protection which uses Mosfets instead of relays, uses the amplifier PSU as supply and has over current detection as well as DC protection. I installed the last one on a six channels amplifier and really like it. If you need any links, please send me a PM as I don't want to pollute LC's thread.
As for adding caps to block DC on the input I just don't. I make sure my equipment (source) is setup to output as little DC offset as possible. The amplifier is DC coupled and will amplify any DC times its gain so just make sure you have the lowest DC offset on the amplifier's output as well as source. You won't hurt your speakers with 90mV DC offset but it's better to keep it as low as possible.
Thanks for the comment on the SMPS setup!
Do
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For another amplifier I used for DC protection two relay boards for each channel.
I also used different relays, so there is one that switches first and always takes the arch.
I also used different relays, so there is one that switches first and always takes the arch.
The beauty of LC's speaker protection is that it is in parallel with the signal, so no detriment to the sound that I could detect. 🙂
The beauty of LC's speaker protection is that it is in parallel with the signal, so no detriment to the sound that I could detect. 🙂
The question is that there are all these capacitors after the PS. Will they discharge in case of DC fault ?
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The beauty of LC's speaker protection is that it is in parallel with the signal, so no detriment to the sound that I could detect. 🙂
Good quality relays have less than 50mOhm impedance and if paralleled you divide it by two so no real issue and to be honest with you, I've tried with and without and could never tell the difference.
LC's protection is ok for sure but I don't know if I want to risk 60Vdc in my speakers even if for a fraction of a second. That would mean a mega "ploc" sound and hopefully wouldn't destroy the speaker. The tweeter should be protected anyways since there is almost always a capacitor in the way unless doing active setup. Maybe I'm just going crazy for nothing! LOL
Ciao!
Do
First One M sold out
Hello guys
Just an info for you all that FO M modules are sold out.
New FO M series in progress, estimated lead time 6 weeks. Hopefully series produced until last week of February, latest.
All interested please send inquiries to my email, I will take care that you'll get an offer in time.
FO L modules and CapBank modules still available. 😉
L.C.
Hello guys

Just an info for you all that FO M modules are sold out.
New FO M series in progress, estimated lead time 6 weeks. Hopefully series produced until last week of February, latest.
All interested please send inquiries to my email, I will take care that you'll get an offer in time.
FO L modules and CapBank modules still available. 😉
L.C.

Here is my iteration of FO 1.4M amps.
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.
About the sound: well, i had more than 30 amplifiers during last 25 years, this one beats them all. It sounds very natural (clapping hands are just perfect for example), very fast (percussions are great), everything seems under control, clearly high end sound, i'm very happy with the result.
zas

The FO 1.4M is indeed a very good amplifier, I have just replaced the 4 onboard power supplies of my Soekris DAC with muzgdiy regulators.
With the FO 1.4M I can clearly hear the added 3D, echoes of instruments, a holographic sound. A lesser amp would mask these.
danny 😉
DoHere's my new build coming along!
I will post more pictures when completed. So far it sounds quite good!
The SMPS are mounted on the front panel as you can see and the chassis kinda looks empty but it will eventually be filled with the FO L modules so it will leave room for the cap banks.
LC, just a quick question for you.. I biased the output stage idle current to 380mA instead of the 280mA but I wanted to know if I should keep the VAS current to 18mA or crank it up a little?
Thanks
Do

Keep VAS current steady at 180 mA regardless to output bias level. Intermediate driver bjts take care of drive current (mainly AC) so there's very little change to VAS current. 🙂
L.C.

Do
Keep VAS current steady at 180 mA regardless to output bias level. Intermediate driver bjts take care of drive current (mainly AC) so there's very little change to VAS current. 🙂
L.C.![]()
Yeah I realized I was missing a 0 at the end of the 18mA... LOL! Ok nice, I set the VAS initially at 180mA and pump up the output stage bias to 380. I'll keep everything as is and test.
Thanks
Do
Yeah I realized I was missing a 0 at the end of the 18mA... LOL! Ok nice, I set the VAS initially at 180mA and pump up the output stage bias to 380. I'll keep everything as is and test.
Thanks
Do
we want feedback is 380ma sound better than 280ma
Yeah I realized I was missing a 0 at the end of the 18mA... LOL! Ok nice, I set the VAS initially at 180mA and pump up the output stage bias to 380. I'll keep everything as is and test.
Thanks
Do
No, no, no my very lapsus 😂
180 mV between TP1-TP2, meaning 18 mA VAS current

That's how it is when man needs more than 24 hours a day 😜
No, no, no my very lapsus 😂
180 mV between TP1-TP2, meaning 18 mA VAS current
That's how it is when man needs more than 24 hours a day 😜
Hehe, no worries! I was actually set properly, 18mA or 180mV across TP1-TP2. I'll be testing soon.
Thanks
Do
we want feedback is 380ma sound better than 280ma
Hi Back,
I won't be able to tell since I set it at 280mA many months ago and won't be able to remember exactly how it sounded like if it was A/B test.
I'll tell you about the 380mA setup for sure. With my chassis I could potentially even go to 600mA but I don't know if the SMPS would like that. Won't try that anyways!
Ciao!
Do
I won't be able to tell since I set it at 280mA many months ago and won't be able to remember exactly how it sounded like if it was A/B test.
Perhaps L.C. can comment on this. I am curious too, as my cooling capacity is sufficient.
Am I right to assume a higher output bias causes the amp to work into class A up to higher output power?
Mark
Hehe, no worries! I was actually set properly, 18mA or 180mV across TP1-TP2. I'll be testing soon.
Thanks
Do
OK 🙂
Lots of space in your chassis, try to add 10 mF elco per each rail, you'll be more than pleased with sq improvement, of course if SMPS allows it.

That's true, at 280 mA amp delivers 1,25 Wrms/8 Ohm in class A. The heatsink temperature set to 45 °C when amp is in idle, is your only limitation to max bias.Perhaps L.C. can comment on this. I am curious too, as my cooling capacity is sufficient.
Am I right to assume a higher output bias causes the amp to work into class A up to higher output power?
Mark
In FO L chassis we made, the channel supply current is set to 400 mA meaning 2,56 Wrms/8 Ohm in class A.
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