ok I understand, reduce input current, if there is absolutely no impact on sonic performance, why not.
The two 300×160×40 radiator that I can put inside is in fact four 300*80*40 with two together one above the other.
So may be 8 S on "external" radiator and 4 M wish one on each internal radiator.
One SMPS 1200A180 for S
One SMPS 1200A400 for M
The two 300×160×40 radiator that I can put inside is in fact four 300*80*40 with two together one above the other.
So may be 8 S on "external" radiator and 4 M wish one on each internal radiator.
One SMPS 1200A180 for S
One SMPS 1200A400 for M
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Bias current reduced down to 50% of normal level would not do a lot to sonics but would reduce idle power dissipation to half.
I would certainly mount both First One M and S modules to outer heatsinks or just S to inner heatsinks.
One SMPS1200 can supply max. 4 modules, otherwise it will not start-up because of too much capacitance on all First One modules. For 12 modules all together to work properly you would need at least three SMPS1200.
There is.
Class B amplifiers produce high order harmonics (crossing distortion) that class A does not.
In class AB amps, the quiescent current fixes the available power range of the class A operation. IE, less current, less power available in class A mode.
With the original values chosen by L.C., you'll have both perfect temp stabilization, because that the point where power lateral devices have a flat tempco curve, and class A operation at normal listening levels.
If I was you, i would reduce quiescent current only for the amps that does not require the highest power in your system (trebles, 'surround' speakers etc.)
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Ok, If for example an amp become B at 10W at 4ohm, he will become B at 5W in 8ohm ?
Thanks
LC,
I own the C1 enclosure (beautifull work!), can you tell me:
- what type cabling you use from the modules to the binding posts?
- which type of switch do you use for the (hidden) on/off switch?
- which type of IEC do you use?
Thanks
P.S. Just waiting for your signal to order the FO 1.4
I own the C1 enclosure (beautifull work!), can you tell me:
- what type cabling you use from the modules to the binding posts?
- which type of switch do you use for the (hidden) on/off switch?
- which type of IEC do you use?
Thanks
P.S. Just waiting for your signal to order the FO 1.4
Will do with series production module, to be obvious what one can expect regarding measurements, but unobviously from sounding point of view. That will be reserved to subjective opinions and tastes.
No, 20 W/8 ohm, current is fixed in equation P = I^2*R
- QED SILVER ANNIVERSARY XTLC,
I own the C1 enclosure (beautifull work!), can you tell me:
- what type cabling you use from the modules to the binding posts?
- which type of switch do you use for the (hidden) on/off switch?
- which type of IEC do you use?
Thanks
P.S. Just waiting for your signal to order the FO 1.4
- JWS21RAA SWITCH
- 6100.3100 INLET
It is hard to comment on holographic as I have never heard F5.
My first starts were with Naim integrated, then building Naim clones, after that LM4700 and LM3886. For several years my hobby was out since having kids and keeping everything quiet is an opposite thing.
At the moment I am listening to Superuniti as a preamp/streamer and FO1.4 driving Thiel CS3.7.
I use custom cables (they follow very simple principles) and if necessary modified connectors. Simply put. The cable does not have any of their own magic. What comes out of box that is what you get. To me they sound as neutral as possible. They also show shortcomings. But they are not emphasized.
In my system if something is wrong with the sound that part sticks out to the listener. So far i could hear problems with most of the FO versions, but not with the last one. This one sounds much better than all the rest.
I have compared to regulated LM3886 amps, Naim NAP250.2, Superuniti integrated, NuForce 9 v2 (maybe 3?) and some more not worth mentioning.
LM3886 is a very serious and coherent amp. But it looses on the deppest bass and microdinamics.
NAP20.2 is quite colored amp, cymbals sound like plastic wrappings, has deep bass and really good vocals.
Superuniti has nice highs and mids but less bass and less control of it.
NuForce has everything, really nice and good amp, but all detail is everywhere so no holographic imaging.
FO1.4 it actually sounds the closest to LM3886 but it takes it so much further. It has bass, muds, highs. It is transparent and at the same time energetic.. There is holographic imaging but it is different than what I have heard so far.
The FO1.4 extracts and lays out so much of the microdetails and it does it in a correct way that it is on top instruments making it as a much more coherent whole.
On classic albums it lights up the whole stage, making more sense of the music but also of the size of the stage. There is information which I have really never heard before and it is obvious not something hard to hear.
The bonus side is that FO 1.4 is now much better at PSRR than before.
I believe that my implementation of First One is as direct and transparent as possible. I really tried to optimize things as a system. It is an add-on to LC great designing skills and electronic knowledge.
Long post, not sure if I answered you question.
Would it be possible / feasible to borrow a fully built FO 1.4 unit? If so, I'd be happy to review and compare it to my F5.
Not at the moment. My amp is still on the wooden shelf and and a couple of heatsinks. I hope to get the blackmamba box soon to have a finished amp before new years. I do not expect a change in sound when the amp will be boxed.
For location details PM me.
Hi Hose4
Thanks for taking the time to answer my question.
You answered my question very well.
I'm looking for an amplifier that has all the qualities you describe and I guess a litle more...
I own an Dayens Ampino which 6moons called an "'FirstWatt F5 Lite', this little thing has it all but... the lowest octave.
Reading your reply tells me that the FO 1.4 has everything I'm looking for except I'm not sure it has the enormous width and depth of the sound stage my little Ampino throws.... or that it makes your speakers "disappear".
But I'm very curious how this First One evolution is performing so I'm going to order the FO 1.4 anyhow
Kind regards
One of the best things of Thiel speakers is imaging and timing. The better they are the more they resolve. The 3.7 has fantastic rigid enclosure and coincident array of mid/treble drivers. The sound is fast and effortless. They really dissapear. They all do.Hi Hose4
Thanks for taking the time to answer my question.
You answered my question very well.
I'm looking for an amplifier that has all the qualities you describe and I guess a litle more...
I own an Dayens Ampino which 6moons called an "'FirstWatt F5 Lite', this little thing has it all but... the lowest octave.
Reading your reply tells me that the FO 1.4 has everything I'm looking for except I'm not sure it has the enormous width and depth of the sound stage my little Ampino throws.... or that it makes your speakers "disappear".
But I'm very curious how this First One evolution is performing so I'm going to order the FO 1.4 anyhow
Kind regards
With the FO1.4 the sound moved further away from the speakers. All instruments became much more focused. Space (air) between them increased. When I turn up the volume the instruments grow but do not blend. Yet my foot is tapping like crazy. Like never before.
Marie Nakamoto/Georgia - is incredible. The double bass from the left speaker became alive in its own space and her voice is ...
So far, no matter what, the double bass was locked inside the speaker. Now it has its own space (and it was recorded left speaker only).
The lowest octave? I think FO goes below.
To comment on imaging:
- speakers disappear
- center mixed sounds are in the middle
- depth of the stage: there is so much more going on in the background that it is closer than before, when the sound just faded out to infinity (or noise floor - depends on the amp). Now it has a boundary and you can hear it. Is it correct or not I am not sure. But it sounds natural.
- the sounds or voices are actually pinpoint
But hey, it's only a week of getting to know an amp. So far so good. I usually find mistakes in less days.
But I'm very curious how this First One evolution is performing so I'm going to order the FO 1.4 anyhow
Kind regards
Good choice
you'll be amazed what this little sucker can do 
Thank You, hose4, for passing the time, as Lazy crosses his t's and dots his i's. Your impressions of the LM3886 is giving me the impression that the F1 v.4 is indeed the best upgrade choice for me. I am currently using Peter Daniel's LM3875 amp kits on my system. I like the mid-range a lot. Bass could be better when using in full range mode. But with subs, the LM3875 is pretty good, yet 40 watts still falls short for dynamics, esp with movies. I have considered the LM4780 kit as an "affordable" alternative for more power, but since hearing about the First One, and now your impressions, I am pretty excited to wait for Lazy's latest version...
...I am also torn between a computer upgrade and the next speaker build, so the pressure is on...
S, M, L? You lost me...
Maybe it is the long hours at work, or I missed it.
Not only are there versions of F1, now we have different models?!?
Okay, so what is with the "S", "M" and "L"?
Small, Medium, Large?
Sorry if this has been already discussed, this is the first day I have had off in 3 weeks, so I am trying to get as much out of it as I can!
Maybe it is the long hours at work, or I missed it.
Not only are there versions of F1, now we have different models?!?
Okay, so what is with the "S", "M" and "L"?
Small, Medium, Large?
Sorry if this has been already discussed, this is the first day I have had off in 3 weeks, so I am trying to get as much out of it as I can!
SMPS and chassis options...
I am putting together a Bill of Materials for my First One build.
First off, I know most people are using two Hypex SMPS600 for the PSU. I know earlier in this thread it was discussed that one Hypex SMPS1200A400 could be used for a stereo pair of amp modules with the side effect of the F1 modules creating a little more heat. Was there ever a sound comparison made between the two?
Also, if I get the Standard 4U Amplifier Chassis from the diyAudio store, how many v.4 modules can I fit in there? (I am assuming at least 4.)
Thanks for your tolerance and patience if these questions are repeats.
Allen
I am putting together a Bill of Materials for my First One build.
First off, I know most people are using two Hypex SMPS600 for the PSU. I know earlier in this thread it was discussed that one Hypex SMPS1200A400 could be used for a stereo pair of amp modules with the side effect of the F1 modules creating a little more heat. Was there ever a sound comparison made between the two?
Also, if I get the Standard 4U Amplifier Chassis from the diyAudio store, how many v.4 modules can I fit in there? (I am assuming at least 4.)
Thanks for your tolerance and patience if these questions are repeats.
Allen