Erik van Voorst said:The Metronome Kalista is a very respected cd transport
(ac powered) and the top of there line is now the 50.000 dollar Metronome Kalista Reference...and guess what...they power this rig with batteries...
So the former Jadis Designer is able to get some good results with this very much discussed way of powersupply....
I gues experimenting like Peter is the only way to find out...if you strike gold for your set-up and own way of listening...
Jadis... Bah Humbug!
kevinkr said:
Jadis... Bah Humbug!
The Orchestra is not bad at all.....lots of experience with it, but the (first) Jadis cd-player is appalling ...horrible .....a standard phillips on mdf with a nice coat over it...
The lenght of the stick depends on how far you place the print underneath the laser...obviously it is maximized by the length of the ribbon...and you do not want a longer ribbon...
Erik,
nicely done work with the separation of the circuit board from the transport assembly and the use of the stick to lengthen the relay actuators. Your example will help others in the future after their lasers deteriorate and need replacement. After the laser chip starts to degrade (it already starts after about 200 hours playing time) one can either (1) replace just the laser pickup (maintaining the sled /motor mechanism), or (2) replace the whole laser transport unit with its motors. If you do the latter, the bad news is that the pcb will have to be separated from the motors. In either case, a calibration will have to be done to get the best eye pattern with use of the trim pot on the laser pickup pcb after replacement. Just thinking of the future.... In any case, the mechanical isolation of the pcb from the motors is a nice step forward that you have made...
Got brass standoffs for my transport this weekend, but did not get too far in circuit analysis. Before I alter anything, everything will be analyzed and measured...
Erik,
nicely done work with the separation of the circuit board from the transport assembly and the use of the stick to lengthen the relay actuators. Your example will help others in the future after their lasers deteriorate and need replacement. After the laser chip starts to degrade (it already starts after about 200 hours playing time) one can either (1) replace just the laser pickup (maintaining the sled /motor mechanism), or (2) replace the whole laser transport unit with its motors. If you do the latter, the bad news is that the pcb will have to be separated from the motors. In either case, a calibration will have to be done to get the best eye pattern with use of the trim pot on the laser pickup pcb after replacement. Just thinking of the future.... In any case, the mechanical isolation of the pcb from the motors is a nice step forward that you have made...
Got brass standoffs for my transport this weekend, but did not get too far in circuit analysis. Before I alter anything, everything will be analyzed and measured...
Wait for meee !!
Algar, can you email me
what package you help ? dont forget
please let me know the price
for someone who make something group buys
for this thread pls email me maybe i will joint
the grou buys
regards,
jeffry_widjaja@yahoo.com
Algar, can you email me
what package you help ? dont forget
please let me know the price
for someone who make something group buys
for this thread pls email me maybe i will joint
the grou buys
regards,
jeffry_widjaja@yahoo.com
Re: Wait for meee !!
I just finished shipping two transports to Indonesia. It costs about $50USD and took nine weeks.
Regards,
Dan
Gulfstream said:Algar, can you email me
what package you help ? dont forget
please let me know the price
for someone who make something group buys
for this thread pls email me maybe i will joint
the grou buys
regards,
jeffry_widjaja@yahoo.com
I just finished shipping two transports to Indonesia. It costs about $50USD and took nine weeks.
Regards,
Dan
stefanobilliani said:There is an article on tnt audio on power supplies and it comes out , for digital , that the batteries can be noiser than a PS .
Stephano,
Can you post a link or title of the article please? I'd like to read if they say why the battery source was nosier. It is always good to learn something.
Thanks!
slawney said:Your example will help others in the future after their lasers deteriorate and need replacement. After the laser chip starts to degrade (it already starts after about 200 hours playing time) one can either (1) replace just the laser pickup (maintaining the sled /motor mechanism), or (2) replace the whole laser transport unit with its motors. If you do the latter, the bad news is that the pcb will have to be separated from the motors. In either case, a calibration will have to be done to get the best eye pattern with use of the trim pot on the laser pickup pcb after replacement.
Any Idea...
How does Junji with his Shigaraki/Flatfish/Pitracer get away with this.....especially in America...you can probably sue him
close to bankrupt....
Erik van Voorst said:
Any Idea...
How does Junji with his Shigaraki/Flatfish/Pitracer get away with this.....especially in America...you can probably sue him
close to bankrupt....
Peter indicated some number of posts back that his has over 800 hrs of use so far with no deterioration in performance.
Peter,
You can probably answer a very important question...for all of the Shigacloners on this thread...
After approx. 800 hours of operation of your transport does it STILL outperform your other rigs..
If so ...then the degrading of the chip is still within the (our)audiophile specs.....and one can stock about 10-15 boomboxes to enjoy a lot of years the promised
"Perfect Sound Forever".......
Sorry crossmailing....however I did not read a check with the other transports...
You can probably answer a very important question...for all of the Shigacloners on this thread...
After approx. 800 hours of operation of your transport does it STILL outperform your other rigs..
If so ...then the degrading of the chip is still within the (our)audiophile specs.....and one can stock about 10-15 boomboxes to enjoy a lot of years the promised
"Perfect Sound Forever".......
Sorry crossmailing....however I did not read a check with the other transports...
My thing is doing well so far. It does play very nicely; I listened to some good jazz recordings and some CDs I feel were well made and this little gadget is awesome!
I met a snag yesterday though: I tried to detach the transport mechanism from the control pcb and unfortunately, the spinning motor of the cd would not work at all. I checked continuity, which was fine, then re-checked by replacing everything as it was: it worked again!
So I re-detached again, put 20-22 awg cables, made sure the soldering was appropriate, and again, the motor would not spin!!!
Suggestions regarding this mystery?
I put everything back together again and it works very well now.
So far, the whole set weights about 42 pounds (17 for the power supply, and 25 for the transport). I have not worked on the control board yet (it does scare me a bit) though I found some nice switches (touch type) at a surplus electronic store here, in Montreal.
Still have to work on the damping of the drive: the box has 2 floors, the lowest to hold the stone box, the second, inside the box, to hold the transport. Between, the damping based on insulation foam.
http://homepage.mac.com/angaq0k/PhotoAlbum14.html
I did a few more photos yesterday, but did not take time to load them on the site yet.
I met a snag yesterday though: I tried to detach the transport mechanism from the control pcb and unfortunately, the spinning motor of the cd would not work at all. I checked continuity, which was fine, then re-checked by replacing everything as it was: it worked again!
So I re-detached again, put 20-22 awg cables, made sure the soldering was appropriate, and again, the motor would not spin!!!
Suggestions regarding this mystery?
I put everything back together again and it works very well now.
So far, the whole set weights about 42 pounds (17 for the power supply, and 25 for the transport). I have not worked on the control board yet (it does scare me a bit) though I found some nice switches (touch type) at a surplus electronic store here, in Montreal.
Still have to work on the damping of the drive: the box has 2 floors, the lowest to hold the stone box, the second, inside the box, to hold the transport. Between, the damping based on insulation foam.
http://homepage.mac.com/angaq0k/PhotoAlbum14.html
I did a few more photos yesterday, but did not take time to load them on the site yet.
Dan_ed said:
Stephano,
Can you post a link or title of the article please? I'd like to read if they say why the battery source was nosier. It is always good to learn something.
Thanks!
This might be the article:
Low Noise Regulators
Regards,
Dan
Dan_ed said:Pendergast,
Isn't there a relay that needs to be closed? I think that is the one Erik van Voorst made a long stick to close it with. You can try closing it with your finger and see if that gets the motor spinning.
Thanks Dantwomey!
Dan
Travel limit switch.. IIRC it is normally closed and opens when the sled reaches the inner limit of travel. Something else might be going on here.
Pendergast said:
Pendergast, from looking at your photos (nice work!) it seems to me that you are losing much of the advantage of the inertia of all that mass by continuing to use the green compliant couplings. If you mounted the transport rigidly, wouldn't the vibrations of the rotating disc and mechanism be reduced through being directly coupled to a lot of weight? You could then put some sort of compliant suspension under the whole heavy box. I may be wrong - but I think it could be well worth trying.
kanifee said:WOOHOO orderd my DAC today ready to be moded which means i can make a start on sourcing a unit for this next week!
Not sure if the pm is working but I have a spare stripped down unit now if that'll help. Away on hols this week but email me at iain dot hay at btinternet dot com to get in touch.
Cheers
Iain
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