Thanks for clarifying uncle_leon. I just used those caps as an example. I did not intend to try them together. Would it make much difference with the 4.7uf cap as Peter had with the BG's? I'm just trying to get the best possible parts so I can build it once and have a nice player and can then concentrate on other areas of my setup.
The 4.7uf cap was used by Peter to take the edge off the BG STD by mixing in the mellow signature of the smaller BG N cap. This tweak was done "by ear" and only applies to these particular capacitors.
Bypassing caps as such is a debatable practise and should be used with caution as it often takes away more than it gives. But do experiment - who knows, maybe you'll discover some great sounding combination 🙂
If you give me more time I will be able to give you some solid advice regarding the cap choice. I was hoping to make a push with my tests today as I have the entire evening free - unfortunately, my neighbours decided to pick this very evening to have a loud party...
Oh well.... And some people are surprised when I tell them I want to move back to countryside...
Bypassing caps as such is a debatable practise and should be used with caution as it often takes away more than it gives. But do experiment - who knows, maybe you'll discover some great sounding combination 🙂
If you give me more time I will be able to give you some solid advice regarding the cap choice. I was hoping to make a push with my tests today as I have the entire evening free - unfortunately, my neighbours decided to pick this very evening to have a loud party...
Oh well.... And some people are surprised when I tell them I want to move back to countryside...
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I may do some experimenting with the bypass caps at some time. They seem to be relatively inexpensive. I'm also considering trying a precision regulator for the PS. Not sure how it would work as far as sound goes. If it's bad I'll just change it out for the original PS. I will probably have this thing on a board for a while just to play with it. So why not experiment. My wife already thinks I'm nuts so this will just confirm it for her.
Can anyone comment on the Vishay "naked" in the output spots. I've read a lot of good things about them. Just the price holding me back unless someone says they make a big difference.
Can anyone comment on the Vishay "naked" in the output spots. I've read a lot of good things about them. Just the price holding me back unless someone says they make a big difference.
I have only compared a naked Vishay to a Kiwame (both 300R). Between these two Vishay wins hands down. Detail and definition is way better; Vishay has deep background and startling attack, Kiwame are really muddy and mellow in comparison.
I would say the difference in price between the two reflects the (relative) difference in quality quite fairly. Seeing as you want to do it once and for good, I would say the extra 12$ or so is well worth it.
Beware though - if you have any harsh sounding equipment, Vishay may be a bit unbearable to listen to. Nichicon FG 47uf would certainly be a good partner to it because is sounds warm, relaxed and pleasant.
I would say the difference in price between the two reflects the (relative) difference in quality quite fairly. Seeing as you want to do it once and for good, I would say the extra 12$ or so is well worth it.
Beware though - if you have any harsh sounding equipment, Vishay may be a bit unbearable to listen to. Nichicon FG 47uf would certainly be a good partner to it because is sounds warm, relaxed and pleasant.
I really would advise that instead of paying $$ for those resistors, that some of you try the RF attenuators mentioned back up the thread.
Fran
Fran
Hi guys, just a question re my stupidity and how to fix it.
I inadvertently applied wrong polarity of DC power into the clock now even using the original resonator it is not reading the disc any more.
The lens move up and down several times , the disc spins slower than usual .
Did i really stuff up the main board?
I inadvertently applied wrong polarity of DC power into the clock now even using the original resonator it is not reading the disc any more.
The lens move up and down several times , the disc spins slower than usual .
Did i really stuff up the main board?
I am pretty sure that you have let the magic smoke out of something. Hope you have spares....
I got my box today. Hopefully I can start disassembling it tonight. I still ave to order all the parts to make it work but at least I have the hardest thing to get out of the way.
I have just changed my recommendation for C916 to Elna Starget 47uf/16V. Quite a surprise, given how long these caps have been out of production (I bought them on eBay as "new old stock"). Mine actually had traces of what looked like leaked out electrolyte at the base - but the measured capacitance was fine, and performance was definitely there too. Starget traded blows with BG STD, actually beating it in some areas; in my subjective opinion, it was only slightly worse than BG FK, and in certain aspects (smooth tonality) it sounded remarkably similar to BG N.
Hi Fran, is there an RCA version of the digital attenuator? I keep meaning to try it, but the vision of using adapters is putting me off...
Would those be Stargate, in pics here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/31002-ultimate-tda1543-dac-layout-3.html#post367663
No, they are from the lab world, so bnc only. Fwiw, its worth changing over to bnc for it. Buy a couple of different values..... and use them instead of the resistors.
Yes, they appear to be the same, although labels are not visible on the picture you linked so I can't be sure. Have a look:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Easy for you to say... I have a very good digital RCA cable ("the" Belkin Synapse) and I really want to keep it...
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Good cable uncle & the price for female RCA is awesome
Canare 75Ω BNC & RCA: True 75Ω panel mount female BNC & RCA connectors, to replace the non-75Ω RCA jacks or 50Ω BNC's usually found on digital & video equipment, chassis isolated, available in an R1 style direct chassis mount or RU style bulkhead mount. BNC's have gold plated center pin, RCA's are all gold plate. And, yes, the 75Ω Canare RCA does sound audibly better on digital components than the much more expensive WBT/Cardas/etc. RCA male or female!
Little known fact: C916 is not strictly necessary for Shigaclone operation. I discovered this by accident when I forgot to power off while swapping capacitors in the socket. The player continued to work with no apparent ill effects.
Rather surprisingly, the sound was not too bad, and indeed had something very correct about it. Black Gate N used to sound perfectly natural to me, but in comparison with no cap they do seem to ever-so-slightly overstate certain nuances (like the shouty character of a trumpet). Unfortunately, the bass performance was a bit weak with no cap, and the sound was not as clean as with BG N in place.
An interesting experiment, and cheap to try 😉
Rather surprisingly, the sound was not too bad, and indeed had something very correct about it. Black Gate N used to sound perfectly natural to me, but in comparison with no cap they do seem to ever-so-slightly overstate certain nuances (like the shouty character of a trumpet). Unfortunately, the bass performance was a bit weak with no cap, and the sound was not as clean as with BG N in place.
An interesting experiment, and cheap to try 😉
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"The best Cap is no Cap" seems to be said a lot sometimes.
It would be nice if at least some of the caps that are recommended were at semi available.
I listened to a little music straight out of the boombox before I ripped it apart. It actually sounded pretty good for what it is compared to others that I have heard. I can't wait to put it together and here it on its own.
I got my box taken apart last night and put it back together sans transport and display board. I tried a little experiment and with an LOD out of my ipod into the connector left in the box it makes for a pretty good player. As soon as i have a chance to hard wire everything together it will go to work and sit on my toolbox and really throw people off since the ipod will sit where the cd should.
It would be nice if at least some of the caps that are recommended were at semi available.
I listened to a little music straight out of the boombox before I ripped it apart. It actually sounded pretty good for what it is compared to others that I have heard. I can't wait to put it together and here it on its own.
I got my box taken apart last night and put it back together sans transport and display board. I tried a little experiment and with an LOD out of my ipod into the connector left in the box it makes for a pretty good player. As soon as i have a chance to hard wire everything together it will go to work and sit on my toolbox and really throw people off since the ipod will sit where the cd should.
Little help here with my Shigaraki transport,, please
It suddenly stopped working.
Symptoms:
The disc when first placed starts to rotate, but counterclockwise, and never recognizes the tracks.
When it stops, it displays 99 99 00 and does not recognize the TOC command nor any other.
Checked the Power supply it is Ok. Disconnected and connected the ribbon connectors, etc.. they seem ok
Do you think it might be the laser assembly or the electronics in the board?
Thanks
It suddenly stopped working.
Symptoms:
The disc when first placed starts to rotate, but counterclockwise, and never recognizes the tracks.
When it stops, it displays 99 99 00 and does not recognize the TOC command nor any other.
Checked the Power supply it is Ok. Disconnected and connected the ribbon connectors, etc.. they seem ok
Do you think it might be the laser assembly or the electronics in the board?
Thanks
