audiojoy said:
The caps are an integral part of the original resonator they are not on the board.
audiojoy said:
You need to add a blob of solder to both sides of the S/M caps in order to keep the joints molten longer thus allowing the easy removal of the component.
Absolute master of confusion!
Well, I just came up from having a listen and no, I cannot hear any difference whichever puck I use. I have 3 now: the original, another magnetic one from a different scrapped boombox thats bigger and now the wooden one.
The wooden one + brass spindle is actually lighter than the original; the original is 20.4g, brass + wood is 13.3g and the one from the other boombox is 33.2g.
I cannot hear any difference in any of them. Previous to this I also made another one in aluminium with 6 small neodymium magnets embedded in it that ran slightly out of true. I couldn't near any difference vs the original with that one too. Its a friends now so I can't try it out.
So to be honest, there endeth my puck investigations. At this point there may be more to be wrung out of my shiga, but I think that the route for me to get that is a heap of different power supplies to each section. At the moment I have just a simple ol' single 7808 with a BG 1000uF cap either side fed from a massive 225VA 12V transformer (MSR diodes) - in other words Peter's PS.
I do wonder about adding in a discrete PS for clock, motors, and so on. As far as I know Erik is the only one to have done this.
Any comments Erik?
Fran
The wooden one + brass spindle is actually lighter than the original; the original is 20.4g, brass + wood is 13.3g and the one from the other boombox is 33.2g.
I cannot hear any difference in any of them. Previous to this I also made another one in aluminium with 6 small neodymium magnets embedded in it that ran slightly out of true. I couldn't near any difference vs the original with that one too. Its a friends now so I can't try it out.
So to be honest, there endeth my puck investigations. At this point there may be more to be wrung out of my shiga, but I think that the route for me to get that is a heap of different power supplies to each section. At the moment I have just a simple ol' single 7808 with a BG 1000uF cap either side fed from a massive 225VA 12V transformer (MSR diodes) - in other words Peter's PS.
I do wonder about adding in a discrete PS for clock, motors, and so on. As far as I know Erik is the only one to have done this.
Any comments Erik?
Fran
No difference you say. My hearing is done via headphones and an OTL amp I wonder if this is allowing me to hear more deeply into the recording???Making subtle changes more audible??? Less room interaction and all that.
Still get the same effect time after time. Use original puck less refined leaner sound, use ebony warmer more natural tones, Frank Sinatra's voice gains presence and solidity. There is no doubting this change. I had a friend to have a listen yesterday evening to help provide a second opinion and the conclusion was the same.
Do not forget my idea is not new,it is basically akin to using the statmat, blue mat or CEC changing from a lightweight puck for the full cd sized puck they used in some of their second series transports.
Interesting that Daniel has no problems distinguishing between using 2 or more springs as support for the transport.
If the caps that i have changed are not related to the clock what are they related too??? and why the significant difference in sound.... although granted i would have more trouble going back and forth to prove this. I think Daniel could help here with his knowledge of the circuit if indeed changes to these caps could potentially be of any benefit. This would then mean that there is potential in replacing the smc in one or more significant chains to bring about worthwhile improvements. Although i will admit to not having much knowledge about the circuits changing caps as a black art is a worthwhile exercise-if you have the time.
Still get the same effect time after time. Use original puck less refined leaner sound, use ebony warmer more natural tones, Frank Sinatra's voice gains presence and solidity. There is no doubting this change. I had a friend to have a listen yesterday evening to help provide a second opinion and the conclusion was the same.
Do not forget my idea is not new,it is basically akin to using the statmat, blue mat or CEC changing from a lightweight puck for the full cd sized puck they used in some of their second series transports.
Interesting that Daniel has no problems distinguishing between using 2 or more springs as support for the transport.
If the caps that i have changed are not related to the clock what are they related too??? and why the significant difference in sound.... although granted i would have more trouble going back and forth to prove this. I think Daniel could help here with his knowledge of the circuit if indeed changes to these caps could potentially be of any benefit. This would then mean that there is potential in replacing the smc in one or more significant chains to bring about worthwhile improvements. Although i will admit to not having much knowledge about the circuits changing caps as a black art is a worthwhile exercise-if you have the time.
thank you hotiron for sharing your experienced skills in soldering regarding surface mount cap removal. As an amateur DIYer that is much appreciated. Of course the key message was gently as a warning to others like myself not use to doing these sorts of delicate jobs.
Should you not be on one of those sites for the advanced DIYer instead of poking your arrogant nose into what us some of us less experienced diyers are doing. if you want to be of any use drop that stupid attitude in your emails.
Should you not be on one of those sites for the advanced DIYer instead of poking your arrogant nose into what us some of us less experienced diyers are doing. if you want to be of any use drop that stupid attitude in your emails.
Yes, the headphones may well be more revealing - that is definitely a factor OK. FWIW, when I did this second build, I first had it mounted on a pretty heavy (6.5kg) slab of resin. Huge difference when I sat that on a second similarly sized slab.
Heres another thing, another improvement when I then sat all that on 4 springs (wobbly like a linn but all the same...). However, I then swapped out the springs for some ceraballs and it stayed the same (ie ceraballs or springs gave the same result).
I guess what I'm trying to say is that I have heard changes all along the way with this - even see above about the changes after adding the citizen crystal.
If I get a chance over the next few days I'll bring down a headphone amp from upstairs and have a listen....
Fran
Heres another thing, another improvement when I then sat all that on 4 springs (wobbly like a linn but all the same...). However, I then swapped out the springs for some ceraballs and it stayed the same (ie ceraballs or springs gave the same result).
I guess what I'm trying to say is that I have heard changes all along the way with this - even see above about the changes after adding the citizen crystal.
If I get a chance over the next few days I'll bring down a headphone amp from upstairs and have a listen....
Fran
hi Wood,
I am more than willing if you sent the cocobolo to try it out...looks stunning and if it holds 6mm thread it does the job...
Expenses will be paid ofcourse...if you can make that in ebony you must be able to experience the same differences as mailed with the Frank Sinatra testings....
I am always careful with "advice" but for me in my set-up there was a very clear improvement when I started to give each component a dedicated supply....the trichord clock was a good improvement and the psu made it ...uhh....more mature.
Normally I will shout...NOBRAINER....but after reading that you could not detect differences between pucks I get a bit more carefull...because I found such a tweak a HUGE Improvement.
I am more than willing if you sent the cocobolo to try it out...looks stunning and if it holds 6mm thread it does the job...
Expenses will be paid ofcourse...if you can make that in ebony you must be able to experience the same differences as mailed with the Frank Sinatra testings....
I am always careful with "advice" but for me in my set-up there was a very clear improvement when I started to give each component a dedicated supply....the trichord clock was a good improvement and the psu made it ...uhh....more mature.
Normally I will shout...NOBRAINER....but after reading that you could not detect differences between pucks I get a bit more carefull...because I found such a tweak a HUGE Improvement.
possible cd skipping solution
i wanted to report some recent findings as they may resolve the skipping problem some of the shigaclones are having. I believe that the previous suggestions that the laser sled movement is the problem are correct and it is true that buying a new laser mechanism or lubricating the original may help. For me, a little gravity was all i needed. tilting the mechanism (raising the spindle motor side about 2 cm) completely eliminated skipping on a cd that always skipped frequently. This cd did not have any scratches but it was a copied cd. Copied CDs reflect about 60% as well as a original according to a recent audio express letter to the editor. I believe that copied CDs may exacerbate any tracking problems the shigaclone may have.
i wanted to report some recent findings as they may resolve the skipping problem some of the shigaclones are having. I believe that the previous suggestions that the laser sled movement is the problem are correct and it is true that buying a new laser mechanism or lubricating the original may help. For me, a little gravity was all i needed. tilting the mechanism (raising the spindle motor side about 2 cm) completely eliminated skipping on a cd that always skipped frequently. This cd did not have any scratches but it was a copied cd. Copied CDs reflect about 60% as well as a original according to a recent audio express letter to the editor. I believe that copied CDs may exacerbate any tracking problems the shigaclone may have.
audiojoy said:
You can identify those caps by looking into service manual: http://www.ferdsaudio.com/RC-EZ31.pdf IIRC those were PS bypasses.
Pocoyo said:
Both sounded good to me, but now, when I moved the players into a new setup, I tend to prefer the last one, which sounds actualy closer to TL0:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
ooooh Peter..... you tempt us with battery supply! Go on, you can't leave us hanging with a tempting pic like that!
Erik - can you send me a PM, I am more than willing to send you on the cocobolo puck etc. It just slides in a friction fit so it isn't "permanent" - should be easy to try out.
I wonder if I made a brass spindle like the other one, but this time threaded, and then made a puck that screwed down onto it. The puck could then be made bigger diameter.
Only problem would be tightening or loosening the puck.
Fran
Erik - can you send me a PM, I am more than willing to send you on the cocobolo puck etc. It just slides in a friction fit so it isn't "permanent" - should be easy to try out.
I wonder if I made a brass spindle like the other one, but this time threaded, and then made a puck that screwed down onto it. The puck could then be made bigger diameter.
Only problem would be tightening or loosening the puck.
Fran
Dear Peter Daniel
Thank you for the answer Peter
Dear Erik
Thank you for your answer before
cant reply cause very busy right now
Tricord looks nice but hmmm ... so expensive
What is the type of your AT & T ?
Look you got AWLSR with BGN for powered your AT & T
Have you tried to powered your transport ?
Is there big diferent Between PSU with BG Std & BG N in transport?
(If the capacitance of the caps is the same)
Or Anybody try this ?
Regards, Jeffry
Thank you for the answer Peter
Dear Erik
Thank you for your answer before
cant reply cause very busy right now
Tricord looks nice but hmmm ... so expensive
What is the type of your AT & T ?
Look you got AWLSR with BGN for powered your AT & T
Have you tried to powered your transport ?
Is there big diferent Between PSU with BG Std & BG N in transport?
(If the capacitance of the caps is the same)
Or Anybody try this ?
Regards, Jeffry
The Best
I haven't even spoken to Peter about this yet, but I might as well let him know here. I live in the US where you can't get this thing so I asked Peter if he'd make one for me ( actually, i think the one on the battery in the picture is my unit). I wanted to run it on 12V DC as my whole system is 12V .
Well, having been burning it in for the last 3 days straight, I can honestly say it is the best digital transport I've heard. Nothing at RMAF bested it. My heavily modded EAD T1000 can't make that last jump out of "digititus" that this thing does. Simply astounding.
So, whatever mods he made in mine, find out and do those!
Oh, I know Peter tends to not like battery power, but if you put your components on really big, high quality SLA batteries (like Odyssey's), it makes a HUGH difference. Just like a high quality ,oversized AC power supply. And you NEVER have to worry about crappy AC grunge again!
Seriously, I was in bliss listening at 11 AM . No $$$ power cords, $$$ ac conditioning.
In a nut shell, I'm sold. Mark
I haven't even spoken to Peter about this yet, but I might as well let him know here. I live in the US where you can't get this thing so I asked Peter if he'd make one for me ( actually, i think the one on the battery in the picture is my unit). I wanted to run it on 12V DC as my whole system is 12V .
Well, having been burning it in for the last 3 days straight, I can honestly say it is the best digital transport I've heard. Nothing at RMAF bested it. My heavily modded EAD T1000 can't make that last jump out of "digititus" that this thing does. Simply astounding.
So, whatever mods he made in mine, find out and do those!
Oh, I know Peter tends to not like battery power, but if you put your components on really big, high quality SLA batteries (like Odyssey's), it makes a HUGH difference. Just like a high quality ,oversized AC power supply. And you NEVER have to worry about crappy AC grunge again!
Seriously, I was in bliss listening at 11 AM . No $$$ power cords, $$$ ac conditioning.
In a nut shell, I'm sold. Mark
Hi Mark, I'm glad you like it.
Yes, it is your unit, and it's built exactly as described here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1669755#post1669755
It is my second version of that transport, and it's also the simplest one. I have to admit that with all the mods I did to my original build, I kinda lost the spirit of Shigaclone: it's certainly smooth and refined, but it does not posses the raw energy and purity I liked so much with Shigaraki.
After I moved all my transports to a more resolving system, I also noticed the defficiencies of my originally modified unit: too many BG N's were influencing transparency and immediacy, that new version is much better in that regard.
I recommend everybody to build it as described in my link, and only then consider ANY OTHER mods
BTW, bigger batteries may indeed sound better, the effect of batteries may also depend on local mains condition, mine are not that bad.
Yes, it is your unit, and it's built exactly as described here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1669755#post1669755
It is my second version of that transport, and it's also the simplest one. I have to admit that with all the mods I did to my original build, I kinda lost the spirit of Shigaclone: it's certainly smooth and refined, but it does not posses the raw energy and purity I liked so much with Shigaraki.
After I moved all my transports to a more resolving system, I also noticed the defficiencies of my originally modified unit: too many BG N's were influencing transparency and immediacy, that new version is much better in that regard.
I recommend everybody to build it as described in my link, and only then consider ANY OTHER mods
BTW, bigger batteries may indeed sound better, the effect of batteries may also depend on local mains condition, mine are not that bad.
Maybe this is a little out of topic
I got old sony CDP, try a little mods before my shiga finish
I change supply caps with the elna cerafine
The old caps was Cheap Elna (I forgot)
The sound was so natural but looks to thin
Because i didnt have another caps so i changed with BGF
The result is better with BGF in my ear
Before that, i test the capacitor sound
(Cut your "+" speaker cable, low volume and connect with caps feet)
The cerafine sound was better enough than BGF (Not Clear)
Why ? I dont know
Oh yes Peter as i known, you have a lot of collection of BGN 1000uf/50
Have you tried to powered the shiga transport ?
can we use car battery supply ?
I got old sony CDP, try a little mods before my shiga finish
I change supply caps with the elna cerafine
The old caps was Cheap Elna (I forgot)
The sound was so natural but looks to thin
Because i didnt have another caps so i changed with BGF
The result is better with BGF in my ear
Before that, i test the capacitor sound
(Cut your "+" speaker cable, low volume and connect with caps feet)
The cerafine sound was better enough than BGF (Not Clear)
Why ? I dont know
Oh yes Peter as i known, you have a lot of collection of BGN 1000uf/50
Have you tried to powered the shiga transport ?
can we use car battery supply ?