He's perforating the surround....making that surround really flexible whilst still retaining the task of the surround (= keeping the voicecoil exactly centered)
Are there any updates for Karlson - technique ?
I have one of Suntiger's tubes for a 3" fullrange driver but due to living situation have to
go a few more days til listening.
I have one of Suntiger's tubes for a 3" fullrange driver but due to living situation have to
go a few more days til listening.
Wow really love this I want to make a 1in version and a 2in version of the k tube but don't know how long to have them I got a pair of evdh1a and jbl2410 both go down to 500 hz but I heard some play the evdh1a down to 300hz , what would you guys recommend also I got a crazy idea wondering how would I implement k tube into a car audio build how would one aim and place the k tubes on dash or underdash would love insight on this if anyone is interested in helping me out let me know thanks again
Also a quick question would truck bedliner on the aluminum k tubes help stop it from resonating don't know if it might help or not just an idea I came up with
regarding damping of an aluminum tube, a set of X15 had tubes with a green coating - I don't know what as those tubes belong to K-builder Carl Neuser. Below is an early interpretation of an X15 with original K-tube. Carl said that using a curved Fig.6 reflector (patent 3540544) improved sound quality.
One thing to try would be to use a strip of self-adhesive led foil down the length of the tube.
One thing to try would be to use a strip of self-adhesive led foil down the length of the tube.
I've been posting about K-tubes for around 23 years but there seems to be very few folks using them. IMO they are a nice option to horns when super high sensitivity isn't needed. Subjectively the Transylvania Power Company's "THE TUBE" kept up with my double JBL 15" woofer cabinet.
It would be nice to see some younger folks try Karlson and K-related stuff. I have a lot of horns yet find K quite enjoyable.
GregB really helped with his "Karlsonator". Suntiger build's K with curved reflectors and employs K-tubes.
I'd like a 2.1 K system with 6 inch fullrange or coax speakers but my new Volt 6 pair got put in a shed and probably will never see them again.
It would be nice to see some younger folks try Karlson and K-related stuff. I have a lot of horns yet find K quite enjoyable.
GregB really helped with his "Karlsonator". Suntiger build's K with curved reflectors and employs K-tubes.
I'd like a 2.1 K system with 6 inch fullrange or coax speakers but my new Volt 6 pair got put in a shed and probably will never see them again.
Hi Freddi, I purchased a pair of 2 inch compression drivers (B&C 420) and I intend on trying the large transylvania tubes with them for 400 hz+ at some point soon. I will start first with just 2 inch PVC pipe and if the initial tests are promising, I can work on developing a more sophisticated tube design. I will be comparing these with Lowther DX65 drivers in front waveguides, which already sound pretty darn good.
Hey since you're the man about the k tube my question is how would one implement a ktube in a car to bring my karlson speaker and k tube into my car how would you aim and where would you put a ktube in a car for replicating my karlson in my house to my car so I won't miss it
a mini version of X15 plus subwoofer in a car - or try Alan Weiss's one inch mini-klam with compression driver or a dome teeter - that would oly project out about 2 inches at most. IF the mini-klam's slot is faing "down" then ideally it could could be above ear level in height placement.Here's a K8 by Carl Neuser with a 5.2" long K-tube (I made that tube) Madisound has Beta 8A onsalle for $29 bout 1/4 current price and its a really good K-driver. My XKi 8 with Beta8A seems to go anoctave lower than a stock K8
With a lightweight tweeter and a mini-klam lens - a tweeter alone could be clipped to a car's sun visor - it wold only weigh a few ounces
With a lightweight tweeter and a mini-klam lens - a tweeter alone could be clipped to a car's sun visor - it wold only weigh a few ounces
Attachments
Having the diffraction lens close to driver should spread the top odaave better than a K-tube and a good 3" or 4" driver could be used for a mid-tweeter
I think the little K3.5 with Faital 3fe35 sounds pretty good (Lapaire preferred it sans aperture) - its in this thread: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/heres-a-little-k3-5-plan-i-missed.379978/
Here's two K-ish tweeters both using a Faiatal 3fe35
I think the little K3.5 with Faital 3fe35 sounds pretty good (Lapaire preferred it sans aperture) - its in this thread: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/heres-a-little-k3-5-plan-i-missed.379978/
Here's two K-ish tweeters both using a Faiatal 3fe35
Already some time ago since i posted here so this will be a somewhat longer addition....
Very happy with the 1" and 2" k-tube results. I see/hear no reason to change them ....the question is how to improve them so the total (sound)package becomes better.....
I use a 3 way system as my main loudspeker-system (15" woofer + 2" k-tube + 1" k-tube) and i have a 2 way system (10" mid/bas + 1" k-tube) for demo-purposes. Both work good but that 10" driver has an enthousiastic nature that is missed at the larger system (...that goes deeper..). So the plan: make a 4 way system with the best drivers from both systems and use those drivers in the most linear possibility.
As all drivers are fieldcoils each weighs between 6 and 20 kgs so from the start this speaker system had to be made modular as i want to take it to the ETF (European Triode Festival; a 4day audionerd gathering of serious level).
So starting with a 20x50 mm aluminium frame. Lucky i could use a prototype frame that was intended for the 15" woofer.
So the 15" woofer fitted without problems.
Next in line was the 10" which of course did not fit. A subframe to the rescue !
Happy with the result so now the compression-drivers + k-tubes had to be mounted on top. I wanted to "direct" the sound-coverage of those k-tubes so i made them on a swivveling base.
Very happy with this build, together with a stash of Pass Labs XVR-1's (analog active crossovers) they perform wonderfull.
Of course i needed another amplifier to fire up the 4th way in the system. A First Watt amp to the rescue ! I was able to get both a F1 (current amp !) and a F8 and currently i'm swapping amps to find the optimum match amp-driver. It will be a fun mix of diy tube amps and First Watt products (never used them but especially that F1 made a wonderfull first impression on the woofer.....and me)
A shame here in Europe First Watt products are impossible to audition. Glad with this forum so i can gain valuable insights before i make the following First Watt decision. Serious tempted for a First Watt SIT-4......
Integration of tubes & transistors, K-tubes & cones, push-pull & single ended, etc works. It takes time but the total result is pretty ok at this moment.
Just listened to Tin Pan Alley and that magic worked. Serious dynamic and lifelike.
Hydrophonic Gardens by Carbon Based Lifeforms simply proved that this system is technically correct; otherwise that bass was not possible (positively shocking).
And now finetuning !
Regards, Reinout
Very happy with the 1" and 2" k-tube results. I see/hear no reason to change them ....the question is how to improve them so the total (sound)package becomes better.....
I use a 3 way system as my main loudspeker-system (15" woofer + 2" k-tube + 1" k-tube) and i have a 2 way system (10" mid/bas + 1" k-tube) for demo-purposes. Both work good but that 10" driver has an enthousiastic nature that is missed at the larger system (...that goes deeper..). So the plan: make a 4 way system with the best drivers from both systems and use those drivers in the most linear possibility.
As all drivers are fieldcoils each weighs between 6 and 20 kgs so from the start this speaker system had to be made modular as i want to take it to the ETF (European Triode Festival; a 4day audionerd gathering of serious level).
So starting with a 20x50 mm aluminium frame. Lucky i could use a prototype frame that was intended for the 15" woofer.
So the 15" woofer fitted without problems.
Next in line was the 10" which of course did not fit. A subframe to the rescue !
Happy with the result so now the compression-drivers + k-tubes had to be mounted on top. I wanted to "direct" the sound-coverage of those k-tubes so i made them on a swivveling base.
Very happy with this build, together with a stash of Pass Labs XVR-1's (analog active crossovers) they perform wonderfull.
Of course i needed another amplifier to fire up the 4th way in the system. A First Watt amp to the rescue ! I was able to get both a F1 (current amp !) and a F8 and currently i'm swapping amps to find the optimum match amp-driver. It will be a fun mix of diy tube amps and First Watt products (never used them but especially that F1 made a wonderfull first impression on the woofer.....and me)
A shame here in Europe First Watt products are impossible to audition. Glad with this forum so i can gain valuable insights before i make the following First Watt decision. Serious tempted for a First Watt SIT-4......
Integration of tubes & transistors, K-tubes & cones, push-pull & single ended, etc works. It takes time but the total result is pretty ok at this moment.
Just listened to Tin Pan Alley and that magic worked. Serious dynamic and lifelike.
Hydrophonic Gardens by Carbon Based Lifeforms simply proved that this system is technically correct; otherwise that bass was not possible (positively shocking).
And now finetuning !
Regards, Reinout
Just a comment on potentially how to make the transylvania tubes better... .
We know that discontinuities in the path of the sound wave can cause resonances which impact the quality of the sound wave. Sharp edges in speaker boxes, or sharp edges at the end of a horn bell, can cause such discontinuities, and the resulting resonances. These discontinuities are also present at the edge of the transylvania tubes. The transylvania tubes help to minimize the impact of those resonances by spreading them over the whole frequency range reproduced by the transylvania tubes. However, the quality of the sound is likely to be best if the opening in the transyhlvania tube would have a larger roundover, resducig the resonances altogether.
What do you all think?
We know that discontinuities in the path of the sound wave can cause resonances which impact the quality of the sound wave. Sharp edges in speaker boxes, or sharp edges at the end of a horn bell, can cause such discontinuities, and the resulting resonances. These discontinuities are also present at the edge of the transylvania tubes. The transylvania tubes help to minimize the impact of those resonances by spreading them over the whole frequency range reproduced by the transylvania tubes. However, the quality of the sound is likely to be best if the opening in the transyhlvania tube would have a larger roundover, resducig the resonances altogether.
What do you all think?
I was intrigued by Reinout's experiments and reports about his midrange Transylvania tubes, so I am conducting my own experiment. I found a good deal on a pair of B & C DCM420 2 inch compression drivers and cobbled together a wooden support system and 2 inch PVC pipe (20 inch long) which I fashioned into Trans tubes. I also mounted the 1 inch tweeter Transylvania tube just above the midrange Trans tube. Note that both are resting above a 15 inch Karlson bass system, and operating below 60 hz is a tapped pipe subwwoofer.
The midrange tube is angled 20 degrees below horizontal, while the tweeter Trans tube is aimed directly at the listening position. The only crossover component is an inductor low-passing the midrange output at about 1 khz. - the resulting frequency response is reasonably flat. The frequency response of the midrange Trans tube is 500 to ~8 khz. I hope to extend the frequency response down to 350 hz which is a good spot for crossing over to the Karlson K15 boxes. I will live with this for a few weeks as the compression drivers break in and then reassess the frequency response and crossover.
The midrange is 4 db less efficient compared to Lowther DX65 drivers in front waveguides, which is not a small deal with SE tube amps. I will gain a little of this back when I swap out a large inductor for the inductor I am using now, which is comprised of three smaller inductors in series to achieve the needed inductance value, but adds 0.7 ohms in series with the nominal 8 ohm compression drivers. While the Lowther drivers with diffusers mounted in front of them provides good quality sound for multiple sitting positions, the Trans tubes seem to be even better, which is good for when I use this system as a home movie theater. The other desirable aspect of this system, compared to a front horns or waveguides, is its simplicity,
Enough for now....
Retsel
The midrange tube is angled 20 degrees below horizontal, while the tweeter Trans tube is aimed directly at the listening position. The only crossover component is an inductor low-passing the midrange output at about 1 khz. - the resulting frequency response is reasonably flat. The frequency response of the midrange Trans tube is 500 to ~8 khz. I hope to extend the frequency response down to 350 hz which is a good spot for crossing over to the Karlson K15 boxes. I will live with this for a few weeks as the compression drivers break in and then reassess the frequency response and crossover.
The midrange is 4 db less efficient compared to Lowther DX65 drivers in front waveguides, which is not a small deal with SE tube amps. I will gain a little of this back when I swap out a large inductor for the inductor I am using now, which is comprised of three smaller inductors in series to achieve the needed inductance value, but adds 0.7 ohms in series with the nominal 8 ohm compression drivers. While the Lowther drivers with diffusers mounted in front of them provides good quality sound for multiple sitting positions, the Trans tubes seem to be even better, which is good for when I use this system as a home movie theater. The other desirable aspect of this system, compared to a front horns or waveguides, is its simplicity,
Enough for now....
Retsel
