Thanks X, learned a lot about how to make things easier when building enclosures in the future ( maker beam, folded aluminum sheets, etc). The speaker is the Definitive Technology RL series of in wall speakers. Had them slated for an HT, but sold the house instead. They are a basic MTM with a PR on each side of the woofers. 5.5" drivers and PR's, and a 1" tweet. I just built a frame around them. I am thinking of adding a 10" woofer to the bottom of the frame ( I happen to have a couple out of an old Toshiba coffin speaker), adjusting the x/o, and ending with something like the "Sunflowers" by Paul Carmody. Look them up on Paul's website.
Not sure if this is the place but I have been slowly populating Prasi's layout of FH9.
Built a PSU today using an old trafo from a Kenwood integrated amp of the 90's. 32vac CT. I don't know it's power capability and don't have the correct resistors to load it with at the moment. It is fairly heavy thing.
Gives me 43vdc unloaded through a 22mf/0.22R/22mf per rail. This to be shared over the stereo board.
Built a PSU today using an old trafo from a Kenwood integrated amp of the 90's. 32vac CT. I don't know it's power capability and don't have the correct resistors to load it with at the moment. It is fairly heavy thing.
Gives me 43vdc unloaded through a 22mf/0.22R/22mf per rail. This to be shared over the stereo board.
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This looks like a fine PSU you are making. +/-43v is probably good enough for 80w. Plenty of power for most speakers.
Would this work as tweeter amp? I am converting my triad gold lcr to 4 way active setup..looking to use class ab amp for tweeter
Sure. It’s a great amp for anything but if you need just a tweeter amp, why not go Class A? Same level of complexity is the Alpha Nirvana.
It’s in my shop, and these are the items that Kokanee used in his build:
FH9HVX PCBs:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/812467877/fh9hvx-amp-pcb?
All Cee’s PSU here:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/820063565/all-cees-class-ab-psu?
Ready to Run SSR Speaker Protection boards here:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/932716741/rtr-ssr-speaker-protection-gen23?
SFP Soft Start Board here:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/769363642/soft-as-a-feather-pillow-sfp-solid-state?
FH9HVX PCBs:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/812467877/fh9hvx-amp-pcb?
All Cee’s PSU here:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/820063565/all-cees-class-ab-psu?
Ready to Run SSR Speaker Protection boards here:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/932716741/rtr-ssr-speaker-protection-gen23?
SFP Soft Start Board here:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/769363642/soft-as-a-feather-pillow-sfp-solid-state?
Any other recommendations?Isn’t the 100w FH9HVX a bit of overkill to power a tweeter?
Would this work as tweeter amp? I am converting my triad gold lcr to 4 way active setup..looking to use class ab amp for tweeter
Reading your terse assertions left me wondering why. And exactly what are you asking.
Is this the speaker you are trying to improve? https://hometheaterreview.com/triad-inroom-gold-lcr-loudspeaker-reviewed/.
I have not heard those speakers, but at nearly $5k per pair, and based on the review, they seem well designed. At 92 dB sensitivity you should not need much power (to drive al four drivers), and 100 watts for just the tweeters seem overkill to me too. So, what are you trying to accomplish in the sound/performance department?
My goal is ability to tune each driver both in time domain, frequency domain etc and minimize how much work auto room correction system has to do.They are part of HT. They are using seas prestige series drivers.Reading your terse assertions left mwondering why. And exactly what are you asking.
Is this the speaker you are trying to improve? https://hometheaterreview.com/triad-inroom-gold-lcr-loudspeaker-reviewed/.
I have not heard those speakers, but at nearly $5k per pair, and based on the review, they seem well designed. At 92 dB sensitivity you should not need much power (to drive al four drivers), and 100 watts for just the tweeters seem overkill to me too. So, what are you trying to accomplish in the sound/performance department?
This the tweeter http://www.seas.no/index.php?option...cle&id=62:h1189-06-27tdfc&catid=45&Itemid=239
Its a 6ohm driver with rating of 90w long term..
System has 17 speakers total..but only front 3 are these.
Rest of the drivers will be driven by hypex amps with limiters in dsp..
Vunce, X, just dialed up the bias a bit to read 33mV on the DMM. Seems to be a bit more engaging and more dynamic.
General question if I may. How much class A wattage does that give us, and at what bias does it become pure class A.?...or doesn't it work like that! ?
Again apologies if discussing different layouts to yours X isn't the done thing. I honestly am not sure where to ask as the '100w' thread seems very diluted and also quiet.
Finishing my board and decided I'd mount the main transistors remotely. Started to fit 3 term connection. I needed to move a couple of the 220r into the irfp stations . I measured them for some reason and I have 47r in there. Did a quick search to see if I'd followed some protocol but couldn't find anything. have I just made a mistake there ?
Finishing my board and decided I'd mount the main transistors remotely. Started to fit 3 term connection. I needed to move a couple of the 220r into the irfp stations . I measured them for some reason and I have 47r in there. Did a quick search to see if I'd followed some protocol but couldn't find anything. have I just made a mistake there ?
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