James that is exactly what I noticed. I had the Sigmas in BiBs before.Nice full sound but no cigar...
When in current teardrops, I was surprised.There was more "air?" to the sound...Im not good at describing sound....simply put I loved it.
Btw....if you have pics...post them if you like...theres nothing better then to look at other peoples project and get the inspiration flowing
and the debate too!!!
Danny
When in current teardrops, I was surprised.There was more "air?" to the sound...Im not good at describing sound....simply put I loved it.
Btw....if you have pics...post them if you like...theres nothing better then to look at other peoples project and get the inspiration flowing
and the debate too!!!
Danny
Interesting that your thinking of buying the 'baby' Tannoy DC's - I picked up a mint pair of 609's for £60 and..... well, they are rather good.
Forum member ginetto61 and I have been discussing them and we recon the 8" has been much over-shadowed by the older / bigger drivers..... and a healthy dose of HiFi snobbery.
I know nothing of the 6" DC's other than they exist.
These 6's drive units (and the multi-ways) are let down by their cabinet materials.
Tannoy also made a 4" DC unit:Tannoy | Home
12's and 15's are pricey, so I shudder to think about the cost of these 'babies'.
KEF.....
I remember now, I jested in Planet10's vendor section:
Tell true!
You saw them and thought..... MUST HAVE
They are jewel like no?
The friend who gave me my pair found the third, then did a house clearance and obtained a complete set of 5 minters And sub - he kept the sub and gave me the eggs.
(JC has a fixation for cheap subs)
Planet10 cooked up a 'KEF-Ken' for me, thats one of the 'stalled' projects, both from the bereavements and through not being able to get the wood cut, so I still dont know what the baby UniQ really sounds like.... I suspect it will be quite a nice desk / very small room speaker.
The other unit I've been looking at is the KEF Q15 driver, they could well fit in your teardrop and can also be had for peanuts....
I'd persevere with the Sigmas ie: get the teardrops semi finished and build 'normal' boxes for the bass section, mate the two together and see how they sound.
They might not please the eye, what they Will give you is Data / impression and that's Important imho.
The 6inch Tannoys are in the Sensys lineup of products. A pair of used drivers for 200 quid.Rather pricey.
I got email from Kef. £42.75 excl. VAT and shipping for 75mm Uni-Q drivers.
I have the HTS 1001 now at the desk only to assess them.Sounds very good.No bass to talk about.stary at around 120Hz...Might be goos for a FAST desktop Pc speaker with TB W5-1168 something something.Same as used by Boenicke.
Of course Im going forward with my eggs with Sigmas.I like their sound a lot...
Danny
I got email from Kef. £42.75 excl. VAT and shipping for 75mm Uni-Q drivers.
I have the HTS 1001 now at the desk only to assess them.Sounds very good.No bass to talk about.stary at around 120Hz...Might be goos for a FAST desktop Pc speaker with TB W5-1168 something something.Same as used by Boenicke.
Of course Im going forward with my eggs with Sigmas.I like their sound a lot...
Danny
I'm following your threads X, you do Much interesting work.
Foamboard is not for me and I cant find it cheaper than £7 per A2-ish sized sheet.
Depron's cheap - 5 off 6mm 'A2.5' sheets for £10 and can be lam'd with 'something', aint got round to really sussing it out as yet.
I too would be interested on your thoughts re 'teardrops' - maybe a 'hypercube' interiored tear drop......
Danni,
I've been seriously toying with the idea of buying 10" DC's (am under the impression that More really does mean More with these units) - thats £600 for a pair of paper cones, maybe 30 years old and might need a trip to Lockwood audio = ££££££.
Re Nautilus / Nautaloss - both the 'same' thing, but one is curled up, much like the bass 'Snail' section of the original.
X's is cubic in form hence a doddle to make
The B&W Mid has a 'converging' cone element behind the transducers magnet and I'm guessing that one of its functions is a 'reflector' to break up standing waves.
One could make this feature a really wild shape - take a lump of EPS foam and start carving, cover with 1/2" felt, insert - see what happens.
Sippy
you see,my internal is similar to B&W shape.Same dia from center of a full width to front and back.Then a cone shape all the way back.Ill draw a small sketch when I get home from work.
My external shape is different from internal shape.If that makes sence.
Danny
P.S: your lucky to afford 30y old Tannoys for 600
you see,my internal is similar to B&W shape.Same dia from center of a full width to front and back.Then a cone shape all the way back.Ill draw a small sketch when I get home from work.
My external shape is different from internal shape.If that makes sence.
Danny
P.S: your lucky to afford 30y old Tannoys for 600
Hey X
Hoe would you implement the Nautaloss shape into a teardrop or a sphere shape?
Danny
I think if you wanted to, you could make a teardrop spiral shape much like a certain kind of helical snail with an axially oriented opening (like an auger bit) and print it with a large format 3d printer. One could make such a helical (axial rotation along axis ) in foam core but it would require some clever foam core handiwork. Alternatively, the Hypercube shape sort of has a teardrop shape and seems to absorb internal reflections well.
It might be as simple as making an foam core helix and then trimming it to the shape of a teardrop and then laying paper mâché or fiberglass and resin on the outside with the helix providing the supporting rib structure.
Sippy
you see,my internal is similar to B&W shape.Same dia from center of a full width to front and back.Then a cone shape all the way back.Ill draw a small sketch when I get home from work.
My external shape is different from internal shape.If that makes sence.
Danny
P.S: your lucky to afford 30y old Tannoys for 600
I do remember the 'inside' shape of yours
This is what I'm taking about:
from this page on B&W site: Bowers & Wilkins - Nautilus Tapering Tubes
The tech words say the inner tube absorbs rearward radiation - what does the outside of this tube do?
What can it be made to do or add? S
See where I'm coming from now
X:
Good idea's there
If you made the inside of the teardrop like the purdy B&W art with a parallel inside > taper, one could put an 'Auger bit' spiral in No problem.
I 'think' the spiral would only need to go so far rearwards as 'stuffing' density increases in relation to distance from the transducer as per X's Nautaloss build.
Outside shape deals with outside sound.
Inside shape deals with inside sound.
I 'think' the spiral would only need to go so far rearwards as 'stuffing' density increases in relation to distance from the transducer as per X's Nautaloss build.
Outside shape deals with outside sound.
Inside shape deals with inside sound.
Last edited:
On the other hand, there are some diyAudio members with their own printers who may do it for much less (cost of materials and shipping).
First of all I would make a quick 3d model and produce an STL file. Submit it to one of these on line places for a quote. You will need the file to have someone kind enough to do it for you in any case.
Here is an example of a company for quote.
https://www.solidconcepts.com/3d-printing/
Uff..that is a lot
Just a little OT
Above mentioned KEF uni-Q drivers...75mm LF, 15mm HF...
Actually very crisp and clean. No lows at all, but that is to be expected.
Danny
Ahh-ha.
I've not seen that type yet.
This is what mine look Like:
Note the 'Bass Port' - which sounds like a 'chuffing pipe'.
ie: if you nearly run me down in your car, I would call you a 'chuffing idiot'.
The Stanley knife is there for scale btw
I've used Shapeways several times. As soon as you upload an STL file you'll see the cost in various materials.
Shapeways - 3D Printing Service and Marketplace
Shapeways - 3D Printing Service and Marketplace
Sippy thats the HTS2001 with a 100mm Uni-Q, 100mm LF and 19mm HF, both ALU. 80Hz-25kHz, 1.5L internal volume
I wanted something small, with a 5" woofer will be perhaps too much for near field.
Thank you guys for the info on 3D printing, will give it a shot later on, don't know how to make STL file, so have to look that up too.
Danny
I wanted something small, with a 5" woofer will be perhaps too much for near field.
Thank you guys for the info on 3D printing, will give it a shot later on, don't know how to make STL file, so have to look that up too.
Danny
Sorry Sippy & Barackuda - been busy
My setup is rather different to the classic Nautilus midrange chamber in that it uses a high efficiency driver (old Coral 8" FR) in a 25litre chamber that's designed around the Xover point of 125Hz with a optomistic 12dB/oct passive Crossover (replacing this with electronic Xover)
The shape is basically a 16"dia sphere for the front half and the driver is mounted from inside so the edge of the driver rim is flush with the chamber surface
The length of the tapered resistance tube is supposed to be the 1/2 wavelength of the lowest freq (ie 125Hz = 4ft) but it was found that with the aperature at the end, this could be reduced to about 18" if the damping material's ratio is adjusted to compensate without increasing the acoustical impedance too much (you can see my vague terms here?)
The outside perimeter defines the forward radiating pattern and also the extent of frequency lobbing - the surface finish has some effect on this too, but it's mainly the primary perimeter - the internal volume is determined by the driver parameters and the Qts is adjusted by the forward half chamber damping (velocity damping) but unfortunately, the tapered resistance (pressure damping) interferes to some extent so no free lunches here either!
The combination of the damping(s) directly effects the sound and for high efficiency drivers that have quite pronounced cone resonances, this is where the 'hair tearing' starts in earnest!
If you look at the Overkill mid driver information, Derek has included some info about using a variable wall thickness and mass damping to avoid any chamber 'noise' from adding problems and also describes the enormous amount of trouble they have gone to about mounting the driver - some food for thought for all of us here.
My prototypes were ceramic garden pots lined with leaded vinyl for resonance reduction (only partially successful) with a wood veneer internal layer over that - the 'tapered tube' was done in fibreglass initially but attempting a thick wall (15mm) paper mache if I can figure a way to mount it!
Perhaps some of my trials & tribulations can save you sometime here ...
As has been noted over the years by quite a few people, the chamber shape has a direct effect on the speaker response (and specifically for the dynamics too) but it's troublesome, expensive and unfashionable these days - but works extremely well!
My setup is rather different to the classic Nautilus midrange chamber in that it uses a high efficiency driver (old Coral 8" FR) in a 25litre chamber that's designed around the Xover point of 125Hz with a optomistic 12dB/oct passive Crossover (replacing this with electronic Xover)
The shape is basically a 16"dia sphere for the front half and the driver is mounted from inside so the edge of the driver rim is flush with the chamber surface
The length of the tapered resistance tube is supposed to be the 1/2 wavelength of the lowest freq (ie 125Hz = 4ft) but it was found that with the aperature at the end, this could be reduced to about 18" if the damping material's ratio is adjusted to compensate without increasing the acoustical impedance too much (you can see my vague terms here?)
The outside perimeter defines the forward radiating pattern and also the extent of frequency lobbing - the surface finish has some effect on this too, but it's mainly the primary perimeter - the internal volume is determined by the driver parameters and the Qts is adjusted by the forward half chamber damping (velocity damping) but unfortunately, the tapered resistance (pressure damping) interferes to some extent so no free lunches here either!
The combination of the damping(s) directly effects the sound and for high efficiency drivers that have quite pronounced cone resonances, this is where the 'hair tearing' starts in earnest!
If you look at the Overkill mid driver information, Derek has included some info about using a variable wall thickness and mass damping to avoid any chamber 'noise' from adding problems and also describes the enormous amount of trouble they have gone to about mounting the driver - some food for thought for all of us here.
My prototypes were ceramic garden pots lined with leaded vinyl for resonance reduction (only partially successful) with a wood veneer internal layer over that - the 'tapered tube' was done in fibreglass initially but attempting a thick wall (15mm) paper mache if I can figure a way to mount it!
Perhaps some of my trials & tribulations can save you sometime here ...
As has been noted over the years by quite a few people, the chamber shape has a direct effect on the speaker response (and specifically for the dynamics too) but it's troublesome, expensive and unfashionable these days - but works extremely well!
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.