One other note to davidsrsb: The bom doesn't reflect the new 3x18k resistor modification (which I realized after placing my order... but before it shipped so got it fixed)
I've done this and it seems to work well. The main issue is fastening the heatsink to the component side of the board. I've just kinda strapped in on there.
Perhaps if future designs of the PCB had some provision to clip or screw a commonly available BGA heatsink to the front of the module?
It's not easy to add fixing holes to the existing board and I don't know if making the board bigger would work in various amplifiers.
If anyone have a pcb of stk replacement please let me know. I will gladly buy it with shipping to Poland
Unfortunately I cant contact with schillg11.
Unfortunately I cant contact with schillg11.
Hello davidsrsb,
wouldn't it be a good idea to replace the 3 18k resistors by a MELF resistor 0207 51 kOhm. depending on supplier they have a max power dissipation of 0.4 ... 1W. In a german forum i found that the 4 SOT-223 and the 51k resistor have a power dissipation of about 280..380mW. i think the is enough space to make this modifications onthe board.
BR
Günni
I did not design with MELF parts as they are not easy to find where I live.
The datasheets are lacking in information on how much track is needed to keep the film temperature inside the limits, there wont be much heat lost directly from the body
The datasheets are lacking in information on how much track is needed to keep the film temperature inside the limits, there wont be much heat lost directly from the body
Dear DIY Community
I have a Sony TA-N55ES with this notorious issue. Did a number of component replacements, but it keeps frying the same ones. So - I ended here and found people left in the same situation.
Someone mentioned that he has used a STK3082 instead of STK3102 and it works. Can anyone confirm, as this would be an easy fix?
Otherwise i would like to know about the latest evolution of the STK3102 substitute. Where to buy and how complete is it?
I have a Sony TA-N55ES with this notorious issue. Did a number of component replacements, but it keeps frying the same ones. So - I ended here and found people left in the same situation.
Someone mentioned that he has used a STK3082 instead of STK3102 and it works. Can anyone confirm, as this would be an easy fix?
Otherwise i would like to know about the latest evolution of the STK3102 substitute. Where to buy and how complete is it?
The substitude works great, I put one in my broken JVC AX-700, it needed Bias readjustment, but works great
I have no objection to people making this board in more convenient countries for sale to DiyAudio members, so long as they make a charity donation for sales.
Using an alumina PCB would be a good move.
I live in Malaysia with very restricted international shipping due to the pandemic, so I cannot supply boards myself
Using an alumina PCB would be a good move.
I live in Malaysia with very restricted international shipping due to the pandemic, so I cannot supply boards myself
This STK 3102 appear to be a showstopper for many DIY HiFi owners, myself included.
I hate to abandon a good amplifier, just because a broken component is obsolete, or the replacement are no good.
SO - with a nod from davidrsb (as I understood it) I turned to some family relation, who does small electronic production as described on page 3.
Will it be possible to produce a small number of STK3102 based om Davids documentation?
Yes it will.
Off course the price depends on how many we need, so therefore I must make a survey among you DIY's before deciding anything.
With caution I guees the price could be approximately 50 USD + shipping.
I hate to abandon a good amplifier, just because a broken component is obsolete, or the replacement are no good.
SO - with a nod from davidrsb (as I understood it) I turned to some family relation, who does small electronic production as described on page 3.
Will it be possible to produce a small number of STK3102 based om Davids documentation?
Yes it will.
Off course the price depends on how many we need, so therefore I must make a survey among you DIY's before deciding anything.
With caution I guees the price could be approximately 50 USD + shipping.
However - - the chinese STK's sometimes works - - or??
Is it a question of sufficient cooling?
What if I mount a Peltier element on the backside, add a heatsink and a separate power supply for this element and apply enough power to cool the cold side below - say 20 deg C, - would that work?
Is it a question of sufficient cooling?
What if I mount a Peltier element on the backside, add a heatsink and a separate power supply for this element and apply enough power to cool the cold side below - say 20 deg C, - would that work?
The original module and my clone has no short circuit protection. Shorting a speaker cable is likely to blow it and the outputs.
I have done my best with pad cooling, but my clone would benefit from an alumina PCB for better heat transfer
I have done my best with pad cooling, but my clone would benefit from an alumina PCB for better heat transfer
Thanks for mentioning David.
My brother in law (actually) notified my regarding this thermical issue, and will look into it.
But - shop is open; Need a certain batch before production.
?
It would, but my goal was to make a drop in clone of the original
.
It would be good if a mod would change the topic title. This is not a fake
Took this picture with an opened available "STK 3102" from AliExpress - upper left.
The upper right is the new one produced based on Davids files. Thank you David.
