Thanks zman and SB, I spoke with John at Antek, and he said the 300-400VA are on the way, but still 4 weeks out for those that are looking for them.....
SB is using the same supply I'm thinking os using, if his rails are -+25 I would think with a 22v they would be a bit high.
JT
SB is using the same supply I'm thinking os using, if his rails are -+25 I would think with a 22v they would be a bit high.
JT
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JT,
SB is using the Universal Power Supply from the diyAudio store.
If you plan to use the SLB power supply, you should be fine regarding voltages with a 22V AC (secondaries) transformer, as the SLB will have some voltage drop.
For Spe@kerBox who is using CRC type PSU with a transformer that has 2 x 20V secondaries:
* 2x 20V AC x 1.4 = +/- 28V DC after rectification
* 3 volts of sag due to load of the Class A amplifier is taking it down to +/- 25V DC
If an SLB PSU is used with a transformer with 2 x 22V secondaries:
* First, after rectification part, you will get 2 x 22V AC x 1.4 = +/-30.8 VDC
* The capMX of the SLB will reduce 3.5V - 4V DC
* So you will be left with around (approx) +/- 27 VDC after capMx
* If you have 2.5-3.0 V DC sag due to load, you will end up with +/- 24.0 - 24.5 VDC
Hope this helps.
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It did help thanks... It's been a rough week, mom has been in hospital.
I was mixing the 2. No soldering, or high voltage until I get my head screwed back on straight. 🙂
I have built them both, but my mind just isn't there right now, so thanks for the guide.
I was mixing the 2. No soldering, or high voltage until I get my head screwed back on straight. 🙂
I have built them both, but my mind just isn't there right now, so thanks for the guide.
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JT,
Sorry to hear about your Mom's health issues. Wishing her a quick recovery!
You take care.
Sorry to hear about your Mom's health issues. Wishing her a quick recovery!
You take care.
Building the F6 would like to switch Zenars to three L.E.D. in series.
Hi
I have a small background, well more than small, in electronics building and troubleshooting boards and electronics for Race motorcycles and went through training for Avionics.
I am a 18 year musician and when my brother talked about building a PASSDIY amp a few years back I was very excited also having been trained to be an Audiophile HiFI person since I was a kid by my four older brothers.
I am in the process of stuffing the two channels for the F6 Amp and my other brother is ahead of me and biasing his F6 but we have been talking and we found a thread where the Zenars in the kit had been switched to three LED's in series which led to some definite improvements in Stability etc.
Problem is I lost the thread that told us the specs on the LED or part numbers to order them and there wasn't much info on which LEDs to get.
I realize that we want Green LED's instead of the Blues but even going through both of our notes we cant find the thread where it mentioned the specs.
Also I see that it seems that instead of the Antec 4220 there seems to be many others that are using three or four different Antec Toroidals that people have swapped out and was wondering if the 4220 is still the preferred ??
Like building race motorcycles and messing with the electronics with those I like to have everything I need for each sub process before I start building. In this case since I am 3/4 through stuffing the boards Id like to have everything ready for when I start building up the power board which I have decided to split out from the channels in separate cases from the channels and havent ruled out doing a separate power supply for each channel since Nelson Pass has pointed at that in the past in posts on here and other places I could find on the web.
I really researched the forum and other sources including my collected Database I made for variations that many have suggested through the f6 thread but I cant find the info on the L.E.D.s.
But I must be crazy(I am a helicopter pilot also and all the autorotation work changes us Rotorwing pilots in crazy ways) But I am enjoying greatly the experimentation with the builds of this amp that everyone has talked about. My Two older brothers and I also love building the project at the same time its been a gas but we are all very much builders since a young age because of our father a aviation mechanic and Blacksmith.
Its all spectacular fun and the results so far on my brothers Martin Logan setup with the Rega and other equipment is spectacular even comparing it to Amps that are much more esoteric.
So thanks to you all and to Nelson Pass for igniting whole new generations of HiFi tinkerers and aficionados with a need to reach for better sound in todays throwaway world.
I can't wait to hear the results on my Maggies and my turntable setup.
Thank you in advance and if there was a way I could have found it myself I wouldn't be asking this question the info just seems to not be where I thought I found it in the forum.
Cheers Ashley
Hi
I have a small background, well more than small, in electronics building and troubleshooting boards and electronics for Race motorcycles and went through training for Avionics.
I am a 18 year musician and when my brother talked about building a PASSDIY amp a few years back I was very excited also having been trained to be an Audiophile HiFI person since I was a kid by my four older brothers.
I am in the process of stuffing the two channels for the F6 Amp and my other brother is ahead of me and biasing his F6 but we have been talking and we found a thread where the Zenars in the kit had been switched to three LED's in series which led to some definite improvements in Stability etc.
Problem is I lost the thread that told us the specs on the LED or part numbers to order them and there wasn't much info on which LEDs to get.
I realize that we want Green LED's instead of the Blues but even going through both of our notes we cant find the thread where it mentioned the specs.
Also I see that it seems that instead of the Antec 4220 there seems to be many others that are using three or four different Antec Toroidals that people have swapped out and was wondering if the 4220 is still the preferred ??
Like building race motorcycles and messing with the electronics with those I like to have everything I need for each sub process before I start building. In this case since I am 3/4 through stuffing the boards Id like to have everything ready for when I start building up the power board which I have decided to split out from the channels in separate cases from the channels and havent ruled out doing a separate power supply for each channel since Nelson Pass has pointed at that in the past in posts on here and other places I could find on the web.
I really researched the forum and other sources including my collected Database I made for variations that many have suggested through the f6 thread but I cant find the info on the L.E.D.s.
But I must be crazy(I am a helicopter pilot also and all the autorotation work changes us Rotorwing pilots in crazy ways) But I am enjoying greatly the experimentation with the builds of this amp that everyone has talked about. My Two older brothers and I also love building the project at the same time its been a gas but we are all very much builders since a young age because of our father a aviation mechanic and Blacksmith.
Its all spectacular fun and the results so far on my brothers Martin Logan setup with the Rega and other equipment is spectacular even comparing it to Amps that are much more esoteric.
So thanks to you all and to Nelson Pass for igniting whole new generations of HiFi tinkerers and aficionados with a need to reach for better sound in todays throwaway world.
I can't wait to hear the results on my Maggies and my turntable setup.
Thank you in advance and if there was a way I could have found it myself I wouldn't be asking this question the info just seems to not be where I thought I found it in the forum.
Cheers Ashley
Ashley,.
The LEDs recommended were LTL-4231N. Thread link:
Dumb Biasing Mod, applicable to F6 and other Papa Amps. Possibly My Dumbest Idea Yet
It is also recommended the you change the values of R7 and R8 to a lower value like 3.3K:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/277850-f6-illustrated-build-guide-3.html#post4450227
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/277850-f6-illustrated-build-guide-4.html#post4450585
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Tweak my F6 again...
I biased mine at 1.65A, but the temp went too high, reaching 60degC on a Conrad MF35.
So I throttle back to 1.5A (0.33v/0.22R), now around 50degC.
Before these, I was using 3 LEDs mod with TA's FQH44N10 recommendation.
It ran very well so far, then I got greedy and try out 2picoDumb's magic mods.
I would like to try TA's Diamond front driver sometime in the future with 1.8A after i upsize my heatsinks.
Initial impression after 2 days of listening...using same SMPS ps with cap bank.
TA's mod: Vocals very pronounced, more bass than stock, silky smooth and relaxed.
Pico Magic mod: More details in mid-high, slightly tighter bass, no longer a "layback" F6
Both are dead quiet with vol to max during NO music. Hope to do some scope work and REW this weekend. Will share my results here.
I biased mine at 1.65A, but the temp went too high, reaching 60degC on a Conrad MF35.
So I throttle back to 1.5A (0.33v/0.22R), now around 50degC.
Before these, I was using 3 LEDs mod with TA's FQH44N10 recommendation.
It ran very well so far, then I got greedy and try out 2picoDumb's magic mods.
I would like to try TA's Diamond front driver sometime in the future with 1.8A after i upsize my heatsinks.
Initial impression after 2 days of listening...using same SMPS ps with cap bank.
TA's mod: Vocals very pronounced, more bass than stock, silky smooth and relaxed.
Pico Magic mod: More details in mid-high, slightly tighter bass, no longer a "layback" F6
Both are dead quiet with vol to max during NO music. Hope to do some scope work and REW this weekend. Will share my results here.
Zman01 thank you
Zman01 I wanted to thank you for your response on my questions and the link to the references on the build.
It helped greatly.
I was wondering though since the L.E.D. is Back ordered till mid august if I try to use a different L.E.D. what is the most important spec?
The forward voltage or ???
The reason why I ask Mouser has an LTL-4231NLC Diffused but the forward voltage is 1.9 as opposed to 2.1.
I did put some LTL-4231N on order though its just questionable when they will come in.
Thank you for all your help once again.
Zman01 I wanted to thank you for your response on my questions and the link to the references on the build.
It helped greatly.
I was wondering though since the L.E.D. is Back ordered till mid august if I try to use a different L.E.D. what is the most important spec?
The forward voltage or ???
The reason why I ask Mouser has an LTL-4231NLC Diffused but the forward voltage is 1.9 as opposed to 2.1.
I did put some LTL-4231N on order though its just questionable when they will come in.
Thank you for all your help once again.
surfinashe,
Glad to be of help. 🙂
2 picoDumbs had recommended this model as he had tested it, and it is a low noise unit; other LEDs with similar specs will work too.
Having said that, Digikey has more than 30,000 of LTL-4231N in stock and ready for shipment. Link below:
Digikey - LTL-4231N
Please let us know if you any questions, and good luck with your build!
Glad to be of help. 🙂
2 picoDumbs had recommended this model as he had tested it, and it is a low noise unit; other LEDs with similar specs will work too.
Having said that, Digikey has more than 30,000 of LTL-4231N in stock and ready for shipment. Link below:
Digikey - LTL-4231N
Please let us know if you any questions, and good luck with your build!
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I would say that any green (or red) led will work. They have the same basic construction.
See post #30 in the referenced thread where Pico admitted he used whatever was in the drawer.
See post #30 in the referenced thread where Pico admitted he used whatever was in the drawer.
The mini green LEDs can be constructed such that they fit into the footprint for the Zener diode. Modern bright variety appears to regulate very well.
The LEDs conduct in the forward direction, so their + and – will be the opposite of that shown on the board for the Zener diode.
Wow, that is the most improvement I've seen I was scared for you when I first saw the inside of that thing. Now it looks great!
Good job with help from new friends. 😉
Little help here people, I'm getting stuff together for the F6 build and was wondering if there are any concerns or problems with teh DIY DC protection and balanced/XLR.
I thought i read something somewhere about this, but the thosands of posts are a blur, or maybe I am just thought I read something.
Thanks,
JT
I thought i read something somewhere about this, but the thosands of posts are a blur, or maybe I am just thought I read something.
Thanks,
JT