You will be fine if you use proper specified parts from Digikey, Mouser, Farnell and RS. Ebay will be at your own risk. I added a speaker protection board from eBay and it caught fire the moment I turned it on. F6 is doing fine without it now.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You will be fine if you use proper specified parts from Digikey, Mouser, Farnell and RS. Ebay will be at your own risk. I added a speaker protection board from eBay and it caught fire the moment I turned it on. F6 is doing fine without it now.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You do not understand, i'am talking about fine working amplifer and afraid about output transistors if they fails, can they burn speakers or not? Someone who understands schematic, can reply!?
I'am sorry that i repeat my question again, just need to be sure.
I do understand the question 🙂. If the output transistor goes Kaput, yes, you will risk damaging your speakers. But the parts specified are very robust. So, you as the Diyer have to weigh the risks:
1. The risk of a robust part going Kaput! ... versus
2. The risk of additional complexity causing problems, i.e., speaker protection board catching fire
It is your decision.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
1. The risk of a robust part going Kaput! ... versus
2. The risk of additional complexity causing problems, i.e., speaker protection board catching fire
It is your decision.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
IF the output transistors fail, there's every chance that this could burn out your speakers - pretty obvious really - as you're concerned about that IF happening, then just build or buy a dc protection module - you won't have any confidence in your project without it
As 'alvinlim' mentioned above, it seems that not all dc protection modules from China (for example) are adequate/satisfactory but I've used a few over the years with no problems - again, if unsure about this, use one from a supplier/designer/kit with a successful history - there's plenty of them available - try 'diyAudio' ...
As 'alvinlim' mentioned above, it seems that not all dc protection modules from China (for example) are adequate/satisfactory but I've used a few over the years with no problems - again, if unsure about this, use one from a supplier/designer/kit with a successful history - there's plenty of them available - try 'diyAudio' ...
I understand you, being sure is very important.... I'am sorry that i repeat my question again, just need to be sure.
I wonder how do you solve other, similar challenges:
when you are in traffic, how can you be sure that some other vehicle won't hit you?
when you are bathing, how you make sure that, under absolutely no circumstances, you don't slip and twist/break your arm or leg ?
How you make 100% sure that food that you buy (or eat in the restaurant) is not contaminated and won't make you sick ?
I mean, people die in traffic accidents daily, people get hurt in the bathroom constantly, people get poisoned by bad food all the time, but if you found a way to be 100% sure in those situations, protecting your speakers should be easy...
Last edited:
Speaker Protection Kit
Dear ilikeit:
I had good success with the Speaker Protection modules / kits by Velleman. I use the K4700 for my amps:
Velleman Kits K4700: 2-CHANNEL LOUDSPEAKER PROTECTION ? Velleman ? Wholesaler and developer of electronics
I can't see in what region of the world you are located (maybe add that to your profile - that way we all could give more fitting advice), but if you are in Europe, Velleman has wide distribution here. For example, you can find their kits via the very big online retailer or on the very big online auction site ... 😀
Best regards,
Claas
Dear ilikeit:
I had good success with the Speaker Protection modules / kits by Velleman. I use the K4700 for my amps:
Velleman Kits K4700: 2-CHANNEL LOUDSPEAKER PROTECTION ? Velleman ? Wholesaler and developer of electronics
I can't see in what region of the world you are located (maybe add that to your profile - that way we all could give more fitting advice), but if you are in Europe, Velleman has wide distribution here. For example, you can find their kits via the very big online retailer or on the very big online auction site ... 😀
Best regards,
Claas
Thanks for quick reply!
In which places (like R5) i need to use Z-Foil (TX2575 1/4W) resistors instead of PR9372 (1/2W)?
For P1, P2 i choose Vishay 1240.
For R1, R2 i choose Mills MRA-05.
For R3 can i use 1W resistor or at least 3W is critical?
In which places (like R5) i need to use Z-Foil (TX2575 1/4W) resistors instead of PR9372 (1/2W)?
For P1, P2 i choose Vishay 1240.
For R1, R2 i choose Mills MRA-05.
For R3 can i use 1W resistor or at least 3W is critical?
R13 is in the video signal path.
Me too i like it watch the single pixel movies 😀
to: ilikeit...you can do as I have and sleep well at night (I do!) Build the amp slowly and carefully. Do the dim bulb test to begin. Run some cheap cheap speakers for the first 48 hours until the unit is well broken in and ready for the "real" speakers.
Having done all the above you can rest assured your home built amp is as safe and any sold on the open market.
Having done all the above you can rest assured your home built amp is as safe and any sold on the open market.
to: ilikeit...you can do as I have and sleep well at night (I do!) Build the amp slowly and carefully. Do the dim bulb test to begin. Run some cheap cheap speakers for the first 48 hours until the unit is well broken in and ready for the "real" speakers.
Having done all the above you can rest assured your home built amp is as safe and any sold on the open market.
I'am already build and run one F6 and i'm satisfied with his sound.
Now i want to build another one amplifer (final version), but by using world most tech components.
If you really want to go all out just use naked z-foil vishays and parallel them in the places that need higher wattage.
Not cheap, but someone has to be the guinea pig.
Haha
Not cheap, but someone has to be the guinea pig.
Haha
In places where 3W versions of resistors not need, i'am planning to use PR9372 (1/2W), but in which places i can put Z-Foil like R5. For example replacing R6 not much important as replacing R5, i mean that.If you really want to go all out just use naked z-foil vishays and parallel them in the places that need higher wattage.
Not cheap, but someone has to be the guinea pig.
Haha
Thanks🙄
In places where 3W versions of resistors not need, i'am planning to use PR9372 (1/2W), but in which places i can put Z-Foil like R5.
For example replacing R6 not much important as replacing R5, i mean that.
Thanks🙄
@ ilikeit
I do keep Papa 3 watts power or one Mills MRA05 wirewound at this node position ( price new ~ 5$ pcs.)
Single-ended Zen style amplifiers are most transparent in experiments
about passives and his infuence on audio reproduction.
All Z - foil is not garantie of extraordinary sound.
Mix with non inductive Ayrton Perry wirewound technology and metal Dale
can bring some more equilibre, but again you must try this in real situation.
Solder long pieces of wire " anntenas" to F6 pcb and that way you don't damage by soldering
or desolder heat many times for sound tests.
Resistors data sheet is not all....
Excellent 0.47R source resistor MPC74 cost ~ 1$.
Most of my resistor collection is from second hand market at 30 % max of initial price i find on web auctions.
Crazy good quality stuff for "only

Relax , non stress and joy & pleasure in mind make diy build amplifiers sound fabulous imho. Have fun
Attachments
Feedback loop should be highest priority.
Yes Pico +superb efficient mod together with two source R's.
- Home
- Amplifiers
- Pass Labs
- F6 Illustrated Build Guide