I used 1517. I also have 1540, which I plan to test. They will need a driver stage, though...
1591 is good. You may be able to drive that with the JFET buffer and only find optimum gate resistors for the output stage.
No consensus. Only great fun to fool around...
Are you interested in a different transformer in search of something better?
It's very doubtful you'll be successful. 😀
Got my Box 'o bits pretty well all assembled.
Build Guide photos are incredibly useful... Thank You!
After dithering about re vertical or flat Mounted Tx I now realise that those Rectifier cubes 'could' be better located behind the transformer... Sould I wait and see? or relocate now?
Going to make a Light bulb tester next, check the PS for volts,
then mount the amp boards.. And try to learn Biasing 😱
Attached photos.. just in case there are obvious bungles.. thanks.
Build Guide photos are incredibly useful... Thank You!
After dithering about re vertical or flat Mounted Tx I now realise that those Rectifier cubes 'could' be better located behind the transformer... Sould I wait and see? or relocate now?
Going to make a Light bulb tester next, check the PS for volts,
then mount the amp boards.. And try to learn Biasing 😱
Attached photos.. just in case there are obvious bungles.. thanks.
Attachments
Last edited:
ZenMod will probably ask or recommend to you as he did with me
You need air circulation
Heat will cause your components to fail prematurely
So if you relocate the bridges to the corners - then you can use the middle section by adding air circulation slits or holes
FR
You need air circulation
Heat will cause your components to fail prematurely
So if you relocate the bridges to the corners - then you can use the middle section by adding air circulation slits or holes
FR
at least one Alu strip can be removed and at least one can be decreased in width
in fact , there is possibility that he already have enough air circulation , looking at space between Alu strips
in fact , there is possibility that he already have enough air circulation , looking at space between Alu strips
Last edited:
I must be going blind
The black sections looked like tape and now with a magnified look I see that they are strip openings
Please continue with normal programming
FR
Hoping there is enough allowance for internal air circulation.
5 slots each 1/2" wide = a fairly large hole
I have step drills though 🙂
Sinks are 2+ Kilos each and fins are biggish at 65mm
I assumed as an F6 only has 4 devices, no extraordinary measures are required?
Sooo.. should I relocate those bridges ?? Just how much do those pesky things radiate?
Was following 'more or less ' 6L6's illustrated guide layout. Is it wrong, or did I get lost along the way?
Did eventually note that the Real FW F6 took care to mount those bridges into far corners.. a bit late though
Perhaps ? even re Mount the Tx vertically or does vertical mounting lead to other issues?
ie; focusing Tx fields directly into the Amp.
Newbie.. consequently finding it tricky to.. get it right.. on the 'first' build
5 slots each 1/2" wide = a fairly large hole
I have step drills though 🙂
Sinks are 2+ Kilos each and fins are biggish at 65mm
I assumed as an F6 only has 4 devices, no extraordinary measures are required?
Sooo.. should I relocate those bridges ?? Just how much do those pesky things radiate?
Was following 'more or less ' 6L6's illustrated guide layout. Is it wrong, or did I get lost along the way?
Did eventually note that the Real FW F6 took care to mount those bridges into far corners.. a bit late though
Perhaps ? even re Mount the Tx vertically or does vertical mounting lead to other issues?
ie; focusing Tx fields directly into the Amp.
Newbie.. consequently finding it tricky to.. get it right.. on the 'first' build
Last edited:
im having such a hard time sourcing the components and the best option for transformer. even the MOSFETs are sold out on diyaudio. any suggestions?
i seached in google for any provider and I also looked at the diyAudio Store. in the store the PCB and the two small transformers in in stock and nothing else. and elsewhere i found a coulpe of obscure links for F3 and F5 but nothing for F6. on ebay F6 built is 3000 dollars and other than that its just the pcb which looks different than the pcb used in this guide. anyway im hoping i can find a complete kit with everything maybe other than the chassis and the trans so I can buy the best trans that I can afford separately. actually i dont even know the exact specification of the trans that i will need. so is there a complete kit sold somewhere or not?
also it is not "you didn't looked good enough"
it is: "you didnt look good enough"
also it is not "you didn't looked good enough"
it is: "you didnt look good enough"
Last edited:
there is no complete kit available , at least not to my knowledge
start with that what you can find in store
start new clean thread , where you can ask specific questions , and you'll be guided (as many were before) from start to (hopefully) successful end
start with that what you can find in store
start new clean thread , where you can ask specific questions , and you'll be guided (as many were before) from start to (hopefully) successful end
thanks, that's what I needed to know. I dont want to be an ******* but this is in fact what I asked in the first place. I asked about the best way to source all that I will need.
C'mon.. as a beginner /bungler I've asked a Lot of foolish questions too.
Start with the DIY shoppe bits and proceed from there.
Jensens and PCB's are the Basic ingredients.. ALL else follows.
Get the PS pcbs at the same time 😉
Antek.com sells a 4218 transformer for ~50$ + shipping.. bargain pricings.
Are there better units.. Undoubtably.
But the antek.. will work, acceptably well.
Start with the DIY shoppe bits and proceed from there.
Jensens and PCB's are the Basic ingredients.. ALL else follows.
Get the PS pcbs at the same time 😉
Antek.com sells a 4218 transformer for ~50$ + shipping.. bargain pricings.
Are there better units.. Undoubtably.
But the antek.. will work, acceptably well.
Post #3 has the components that Jim (6L6) used for his build.
Boards, transformers, jfets, and pre-dilled chassis can be purchased from the store.
Everything else except the jfet can be purchased from Mouser. The store's
F6 transistor set is easy to source.
You can also purchase the PSU boards from the store and the PSU parts from Mouser.
There are not many posts in this thread, lesser than 500 in Pass Labs is considered as low ....
Spend a couple hours to go through the posts. There were discussions on some
alternate components, well worth the reading. If you do some home work and prepare, you will be able to purchase everything from 3 separate orders!!
Boards, transformers, jfets, and pre-dilled chassis can be purchased from the store.
Everything else except the jfet can be purchased from Mouser. The store's
F6 transistor set is easy to source.
You can also purchase the PSU boards from the store and the PSU parts from Mouser.
There are not many posts in this thread, lesser than 500 in Pass Labs is considered as low ....
Spend a couple hours to go through the posts. There were discussions on some
alternate components, well worth the reading. If you do some home work and prepare, you will be able to purchase everything from 3 separate orders!!
Post 3 by Jim covers pretty much everything, though if you use 9.1V zeners, you
should decrease R7 and R8. I used 3.3K.
I believe the production transformer is a 300VA 2x18VAC Plitron. I used
an Antek AS-3218 because of shipping weight constraint. AS-4218 would be a
larger transformer at a small difference in cost and arguably an even better
choice.
Case and input jfets can be purchased from diyaudio store. The rest of the
electronic components would be a single mouser of digikey order. Don't forget
to order slow blow fuses. 🙂
For cheap and good wire (and other misc items), you can try Apexjr:
Wire
There's much information on this thread and I recommend a read
though it to prepare for a build. Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Dennis
should decrease R7 and R8. I used 3.3K.
I believe the production transformer is a 300VA 2x18VAC Plitron. I used
an Antek AS-3218 because of shipping weight constraint. AS-4218 would be a
larger transformer at a small difference in cost and arguably an even better
choice.
Case and input jfets can be purchased from diyaudio store. The rest of the
electronic components would be a single mouser of digikey order. Don't forget
to order slow blow fuses. 🙂
For cheap and good wire (and other misc items), you can try Apexjr:
Wire
There's much information on this thread and I recommend a read
though it to prepare for a build. Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Dennis