I wish I had kept my 1957 Bel-air.I liked stroker 383 and 331 small block.
That's real racing and expensive for sure! We were kids who loved hotrods. Run what you bring drag racing type of thing. Even that was expensive, but nothing like the youtube you posted.
Lots of cars on that course at same time.
Russellc
Apologies for the remedial question, hitting the analysis paralysis point (1000+ pages).
Simply, I would like to build a first watt clone, the F6 seems to be well supported in the diystore; Less so for the other amps. A simple build would better, but not at the expense of music quality.
Existing back end; definitive technology sts, emotiva amp.
Desired end, first watt, frugal-horn or other single driver with no crossover.
Is the F6 an excellent representation of the original FW, or should I look at the other units? Thank you for your support.
Simply, I would like to build a first watt clone, the F6 seems to be well supported in the diystore; Less so for the other amps. A simple build would better, but not at the expense of music quality.
Existing back end; definitive technology sts, emotiva amp.
Desired end, first watt, frugal-horn or other single driver with no crossover.
Is the F6 an excellent representation of the original FW, or should I look at the other units? Thank you for your support.
I am more than happy with my F6 into Jericho horn speakers.
As you say it is a simple build, with components avaliable from the store.
You will find someone recomending each and every Pass amp for you, but some are more complicated and will require you to source your own components.
You will need a pre-amp, (or passive if you have modern sources like CD player.)
Good luck.
As you say it is a simple build, with components avaliable from the store.
You will find someone recomending each and every Pass amp for you, but some are more complicated and will require you to source your own components.
You will need a pre-amp, (or passive if you have modern sources like CD player.)
Good luck.
Thank you both for your help.
I’m interested in an excellent representation of the FirstWatt, blessed by himself, that is easy to build. It doesn’t have to be perfect. I will delve into the M2 data and assess my competency to build.
I’m glad to hear you are pleased with the F6, always encouraging feedback. I am confident that I will be pleased with whatever amplifier I select. A pre-amp is on the to do list, after the amp. Do you have one of his preamplifiers?
I’m interested in an excellent representation of the FirstWatt, blessed by himself, that is easy to build. It doesn’t have to be perfect. I will delve into the M2 data and assess my competency to build.
I’m glad to hear you are pleased with the F6, always encouraging feedback. I am confident that I will be pleased with whatever amplifier I select. A pre-amp is on the to do list, after the amp. Do you have one of his preamplifiers?
Mr Pass F6 elegant minimalistic and pure class A without capacitors in signal path are a rare " Diamond jewel " amplifier.
Hey its time to me stuff Tea-Bag version boards with trimmers for distortion tweeks
and have a good music sessions time
Thanks You very much Mr.Pass 
Edit: one buffered version so i can try many different preamps passive and active ones
Hey its time to me stuff Tea-Bag version boards with trimmers for distortion tweeks
and have a good music sessions time
Thanks You very much Mr.Pass Edit: one buffered version so i can try many different preamps passive and active ones
Hello,
Back on the F6 with real TOSHIBA, I changed the resistor R3, checked the IRFPs (1 of 4 HS) and put back in place.
I have 0v between D / S and between 0v / G.
On the other hand the bias does not move at the limit of R 0.47Homs, I have 0v, I can however vary the OFFSET.
At what temperature does the JFET rise during operation?
Should it be cold?
Back on the F6 with real TOSHIBA, I changed the resistor R3, checked the IRFPs (1 of 4 HS) and put back in place.
I have 0v between D / S and between 0v / G.
On the other hand the bias does not move at the limit of R 0.47Homs, I have 0v, I can however vary the OFFSET.
At what temperature does the JFET rise during operation?
Should it be cold?
Hello,
Thanks 2-picodumbs, I actually went this route, I changed the zener diode from 6.0v to 6.2v, and the BIAS went up.
It heats up well with only 500mv I am already at 45 ° C at the level of the heatsinks and 60 ° C on the IRF.
the OFFSET is stable at 0.01v after one. hour of test, I just have to finish fixing the heatsinks and I go to listen
Thanks 2-picodumbs, I actually went this route, I changed the zener diode from 6.0v to 6.2v, and the BIAS went up.
It heats up well with only 500mv I am already at 45 ° C at the level of the heatsinks and 60 ° C on the IRF.
the OFFSET is stable at 0.01v after one. hour of test, I just have to finish fixing the heatsinks and I go to listen
