Thank you!
This diy sound is just damn fun. Sure glad you like it too.
Appreciate your awesome support and all the other electron nuts out there.
This diy sound is just damn fun. Sure glad you like it too.
Appreciate your awesome support and all the other electron nuts out there.
Today,I had time to change irfp240 to 2sk1530
with 0.22ohm.
Thanks picoDumbs instructions.
2sk1530 leg was easily snapped so I connected with copper wire.
Sound is more softer and I really like this sound.
I apologize that I am only changing to expensive parts so it's not exciting for engineers but I am so excited for the sound like I have the best sounding F6 haha.
with 0.22ohm.
Thanks picoDumbs instructions.
2sk1530 leg was easily snapped so I connected with copper wire.
Sound is more softer and I really like this sound.
I apologize that I am only changing to expensive parts so it's not exciting for engineers but I am so excited for the sound like I have the best sounding F6 haha.
Thoughts after reading a post of the mighty ZM...
Was going through this thread from the beginning for fun... and then came across this post from ZM:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/277850-f6-illustrated-build-guide-3.html#post4450227
I built my F6 clone with Tea-Bag's Convertible F6 Clone PCBs and have 2 blue LEDs instead of the Zener diode.
2 x Blue LEDs would be like in the range of 6V - 6.4V?
So taking ZM's calculations into account, I should be using a 3K3 (or close) resistor instead of the 10K?
- 3K3 will let ~5.15 mA through from 23V - 6V
- 5K will bleed 1.2 mA across 6V
- That will leave (5.15-1.20)= 3.95 mA across the LEDs
Is this approach ok?
Btw, the amp is working fine and have it biased around 1.1A.
Was going through this thread from the beginning for fun... and then came across this post from ZM:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/277850-f6-illustrated-build-guide-3.html#post4450227
I built my F6 clone with Tea-Bag's Convertible F6 Clone PCBs and have 2 blue LEDs instead of the Zener diode.
2 x Blue LEDs would be like in the range of 6V - 6.4V?
So taking ZM's calculations into account, I should be using a 3K3 (or close) resistor instead of the 10K?
- 3K3 will let ~5.15 mA through from 23V - 6V
- 5K will bleed 1.2 mA across 6V
- That will leave (5.15-1.20)= 3.95 mA across the LEDs
Is this approach ok?
Btw, the amp is working fine and have it biased around 1.1A.
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Don't use blue LEDs.
Use green or red LEDs.
Blue are far more noisier than green or red.
Anywhere between 3mA and 8mA does the job, however more current is better with regards to regulation.
Use green or red LEDs.
Blue are far more noisier than green or red.
Anywhere between 3mA and 8mA does the job, however more current is better with regards to regulation.
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2 picoDumbs,
Yes, I learned later that blue LEDs are noisier. However my understanding is that going to green or blue would be like using a lower value zener diode?
Here's the Tea-Bag board if you need a refresh:
F6 Clone Convertible PCB blog - diyAudio
On the noise issue, please humor me, saying I keep the blue LEDs in place, is it ok to change the resistor values?
Yes, I learned later that blue LEDs are noisier. However my understanding is that going to green or blue would be like using a lower value zener diode?
Here's the Tea-Bag board if you need a refresh:
F6 Clone Convertible PCB blog - diyAudio
On the noise issue, please humor me, saying I keep the blue LEDs in place, is it ok to change the resistor values?
Anything over 5.5V should be adequate to bias up the mosfets.
You can change the resistor values - anything between 3mA and 8mA will be certainly functional.
You will get better performance with higher currents though eg 7mA.
You will see I recommend using 3 green leds but you could also use 3 red leds
You can change the resistor values - anything between 3mA and 8mA will be certainly functional.
You will get better performance with higher currents though eg 7mA.
You will see I recommend using 3 green leds but you could also use 3 red leds
Thanks Tamra, You did well - I didn't get anywhere with Berklins and gave up! Will try again. What did they end up costing with the VAT and freight?
I found some of those blue ones in Poland (TV SAT ELECTRONIC) and they just arrived today - they don't look anything like the familiar PBH version (like the black ones) but apparently are supposed to be a similar 3W rating - it'll be interesting to hear if they develop the same sound - for the 8 if them, the cost was 11 Euros with the VAT and freight.
For gate stopper,100R 1w was much cheap - is that the blue ones?.
I see you have persevered with the 2sk1530 version - getting a really well defined sound of your own ...
I found some of those blue ones in Poland (TV SAT ELECTRONIC) and they just arrived today - they don't look anything like the familiar PBH version (like the black ones) but apparently are supposed to be a similar 3W rating - it'll be interesting to hear if they develop the same sound - for the 8 if them, the cost was 11 Euros with the VAT and freight.
For gate stopper,100R 1w was much cheap - is that the blue ones?.
I see you have persevered with the 2sk1530 version - getting a really well defined sound of your own ...
@Jameshill
Sorry it's not Barklin but Burklin electric.
I also bought some 0.47 for next project.
They send with box so shipping cost was expensive.
From Polish TV SAT electric,I bought blue ones 1w 100ohm for gate stopper.It sounding good.
2sk1530 oh,you should try one day.
It's only 5usd each (no matching)here only now.
I could send some if you want to.
Sorry it's not Barklin but Burklin electric.
I also bought some 0.47 for next project.
They send with box so shipping cost was expensive.
From Polish TV SAT electric,I bought blue ones 1w 100ohm for gate stopper.It sounding good.
2sk1530 oh,you should try one day.
It's only 5usd each (no matching)here only now.
I could send some if you want to.