F5m kit

Jump to Latest
#2,781
tonyEE said:
the idea is to make this as simple as possible
Click to expand...
I will say, packing the F5m with SMPS into a 2U/300 chassis was not simple. It took a lot of thought and effort to get the layout and wiring just right to fit it on the small volume and keep AC separated from DC. You can see in my post (#2,478) I have the AC all twisted and running the SMPS DC (maybe has a little noise) output over the top in the middle and the AmyAlice filtered DC and speaker outputs running on the outside edges.

At least you could mimic what I did if you want to keep it super compact, but using a bigger 2U/400 would help a lot with layout. I used the Noctua 40mm 24V fans out of extra precaution that the Meanwell SMPS might overheat.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: tonyEE
#2,782
I guess I could just do the 3U.... I mean, I'm used to 4U and 5U behemoths... a 3U will look small. I'd rather do a 3U/300 than a 2U/400.

Yeah, I was looking at the pictures... pretty packed indeed. Did you 3D the holders?

There's always the possibility of using the narrower chassis and one for each... PS and amp.
 
  • Like
Reactions: birdbox
#2,783
If you want to be safe with SoCal summer heat, a 3U/300, or 2U/400 is a better choice. Probably no fans needed for the Meanwells if you go that route. It also allows one to dial up bias a little further than the 1.1A setting I stuck with. My heat sinks were FAB (fearless amp builder) hot in the 75°F room I set them up for.

A 3U/300 would allow one to go vertical with the Meanwell SMPS also, which keeps them further away from the hot heat sinks.
 
#2,785
To be clear, room temp was 75°F, with F5m heat sinks at 55°C. It's the whole Rankine vs Kelvin thing 😉 55°C heat sinks is a good "high end" target in a warm room. You probably are pushing it with 55°C heat sinks in a 65°F room, because if the room temp goes up, you're likely getting too hot on the heat sinks and risking smokey time.

Zenductor 2 runs super hot and why the skyscraper stacking of heat sinks makes for a feel good factor in a warm room. I love the Zenductor 2 sound!!! Those amazing monoblocks push my bookshelf speakers to play exquisite sounding music.
 
Last edited:
#2,798
I am midway in my F5m build with it's companion power supply following the build guide by @ItsAllInMyHead. My question is about the number of rectifiers and the wiring of the power supply. The build guide is done with two rectifiers and the pcb of the power supply is different than the current version being sold by the store. From what I have read in the article by Nelson P it is recommended to use only one rectifier in most circumstances, which is what I want to do. So does anyone have some nice pictures of the final wiring to the current power supply board with a one rectifier set up. I have scanned most of this thread thinking the issue has already been addressed, but if it has I have not found it. I'm using an Antek 3218 transformer and all other active components are from the DIY kits.
 
  • Like
Reactions: birdbox
#2,799
^ I don't have photos, but the schematic is in the PSU article attached in post #1.

Everything is the same on the primary side.

Ensure that you separate the transformer secondaries as appropriate. Then, you simply attach them as noted in the schematic.

It's critical that the blue and green from the two different secondaries are joined at the CT (Center Tap).

So, the wiring order could be:

Secondary 1 Blue - Rectifier AC
Secondary 1 Green - CT on PCB
Secondary 2 Blue - CT on PCB
Secondary 2 Green - Rectifier AC.

Then the rectifier connects as noted:
+ from the rectifier (the tab facing differently to all the others) to Rect A+
- from the rectifier to Rect B - (Check the markings on your actual board to ensure).
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jacruzer787 and birdbox
#2,800
OK, got it. Thanks. But, while I appreciate you may not have built it this way, you might be saving some headaches to solicit some photos from someone who did and add them to the build guide. After all this is the recommended configuration per Mr. Pass. Thanks again! It is the option of have holes for + and - for both Rectifier A and B on the board that made me uncertain.
 
  • Like
Reactions: birdbox
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom