F5m kit

^ Don't hold the iron like this... :joker:

Seriously though - hope it heals quickly.

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hi all, this one of my first builds ... so, sorry for next idiot questions:
  • in Europe i can't find ANTEK 300VA with 2 X 18V. Can someone suggest others? In case i have found one from Toroidy: TSA300VA with 230 to 2 X 18V.
  • what type of fuse is it correct to use? 10A?
  • for cabling internal power line, I have 18AWG solid core ... is it fine? Or is it better buy something else?
  • what cable do you suggest for signal input ?

thanks

 
hi all, this one of my first builds ... so, sorry for next idiot questions:
Never silly questions.... People that don't ask are silly (IMO).
  • in Europe i can't find ANTEK 300VA with 2 X 18V. Can someone suggest others? In case i have found one from Toroidy: TSA300VA with 230 to 2 X 18V.
Perfect.
  • what type of fuse is it correct to use? 10A?
No. 1A5 Slow blow on live should be fine (with the Toroidy above and assuming 230V mains)
  • for cabling internal power line, I have 18AWG solid core ... is it fine? Or is it better buy something else?
I admit I like stranded wire b/c for me it's easier to work with, but you will be totally fine with 18AWG solid, if that's what you like.
  • what cable do you suggest for signal input ?
You'll get 100 opinions. I like twin conductor / fine gauge. I use twisted CAT 6 spare wire all the time. Some people like fancier things. I have tried a lot, including solid silver, and my old ears can't tell.
 
I noticed the top and rear panels of my Deluxe400 case rattle from speaker bass. I thought I was hearing distortion until i put my finger on the top panel to stop the rattle. I'll add a bit of tape or something. ( or add an L-bracket between the top and rear panels since the rear panel also 'bowed' slightly from connecting the power cable )
 
Take it from its output, the filtered and rectified DC, easiest from the positive half.
One series resistor per channel before the LED, going to the positive of the LED, the negative goes to ground.
If you look at the schematics of the PSU in the file, the resistor(s) in series with the LED go in parallel with V+ and GND.

Or you can follow Ben's suggestion, as he was quicker than me.🙂
 
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You can connect one LED to the power supply output V+ and Ground, and the second LED to power supply output V- and Ground.


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Hi ... another question after I did a simple calculation: if I consider a diode of about 2-3 volt ... with R=24k the resulting current is less than 1mmA. Is it enough to turning on the leds? Or is it better using a resistor in the range of 4-6 kohm?
thx