No worries. I love that guide ... and it does have some useful information that could be transferred over to most First Watt type builds (or builds in general), but I don't know that I'd use it for anything other than just general information as it applies to building the F5m.My mistake...it was the Aleph JZM that @roboDNA mentioned
, not the F6.
Think F7...So I happened to get a hold of some 2SJ201/SK1530 mosfets. I was wondering if the F5m is pretty much the intended stripped down version of the F5 that would bode well with these mosfets. From what I can gather with a quick search, these mosfets respond well to low source resistance.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...our-toshiba-2sj201-sk1530.313569/#post5215161
I bought to my F5m amp these nice looking Jantzen Premium Binding Posts M9/26 Satin Nickel model 012-0220. How to solder wire these things? I filed the connection area but still my tin is not getting to it very well with a cable. Do I need to use some special soldering flux for these? Right now my soldering looks really fugly!
Bigger and more solid soldering tip for greater heat capacity is equally important.
Too high a temperature will cause the flux to char and will cause more problems at the soldering process than it will improve.
But by using push on connector the issue will be soved.
Too high a temperature will cause the flux to char and will cause more problems at the soldering process than it will improve.
But by using push on connector the issue will be soved.
They may need scuffed up a bit. That with some liquid flux and of course the right amount of heat.
I use the push on connectors a lot but add just a dab of solder to both parts and cover it with heat shrink. I can always split the heat shrink, add some heat and remove the connector. Seems to work very well. Good luck!
I use the push on connectors a lot but add just a dab of solder to both parts and cover it with heat shrink. I can always split the heat shrink, add some heat and remove the connector. Seems to work very well. Good luck!
Okay! That gives me some ideas to play with. Thank you 🙂Think F7...
I got a 4U Delexue for my F5m build. Should 3U handles be 13.3cm in height? The 3U handles I received are 8.9cm so 2U. These:
https://modushop.biz/site/index.php?route=product/product&path=309&product_id=772
https://modushop.biz/site/index.php?route=product/product&path=309&product_id=772
I've used "3U" handles on the back panel of a 4U chassis. They're roughly 9cm center to center for mounting, so closer to 10mm overall. Those would fit the pre-set holes (as noted on the web site) of a 3U front panel.
The "pilot" holes on the interior of the 4U deluxe chassis front panel I just measured are roughly 12.3cm center to center.... so my guess is that the total height for those is closer to 13cm.
Either way, the website clearly shows which handles to pick to go with which chassis. I think I could understand your confusion though... the "3U" isn't the height of the handle, it's the height of the chassis it's intended to be paired with => pilot holes readily there for you.
There's a chat window on Modushop's site. Gianluca is almost always around in the mornings "North America" time. If you're unsure, he's amazing to work with.
The "pilot" holes on the interior of the 4U deluxe chassis front panel I just measured are roughly 12.3cm center to center.... so my guess is that the total height for those is closer to 13cm.
Either way, the website clearly shows which handles to pick to go with which chassis. I think I could understand your confusion though... the "3U" isn't the height of the handle, it's the height of the chassis it's intended to be paired with => pilot holes readily there for you.
There's a chat window on Modushop's site. Gianluca is almost always around in the mornings "North America" time. If you're unsure, he's amazing to work with.
Yes, @ItsAllInMyHead he did respond to me and I'll be getting the longer handles. He also updated the website a few minutes ago to clarify the description so that is great. The 3U handles are for the 3U panel and did not represent the height of the handle itself. I'm very happy with the cases and they were built quickly. I did a quick build guide and may post it after I get the handles installed.
I have a anomalia with my F5m and kind of hum or noise. If I play music from my computer then no hum, If I use tube preamp then I have hum or noise when turing preamp on. But using same preamp with my Yamaha receiver I do not have the hum or noise. I use Schaffner FN9222 AC Power Entry Modules PE connected to the case. Between the case and GND is 10 Ohm SL22 inrush current limiter, My tube preamp has 10 Ohm resistor from PE to GND,
Any ideas and thoughts about that hum kind of noise?
What would be the max input voltage to F5m? Right now my tube amp has a lot of amplification.
Any ideas and thoughts about that hum kind of noise?
What would be the max input voltage to F5m? Right now my tube amp has a lot of amplification.
Does the F5m hum with any other pre-amp or is it only with the tube pre-amp. That may help determine where to look next.Any ideas and thoughts about that hum kind of noise?
What would be the max input voltage to F5m? Right now my tube amp has a lot of amplification.
Every build will be a little different. The chart above is from Nelson's article noting the typical gain of the circuit.
You know what your V+ and V- rails are...
The Vgs of the output devices is probably .... about 4V or so ... I often use 4V to include other losses as well. It's an estimate... and each MOSFET is different .... as are the losses ... Let's call 4V the "fudge factor".
Rail voltage - the fudge factor => ~Vp. For a typical build, let's estimate it at 20Vp
So... the maximum voltage output will be around 40Vpp. That also aligns with this chart in the article... if we assume voltage clipping at ~25W is what causes the distortion to rise dramatically.
With the gain... and the max voltage output, you can calculate the "input sensitivity", which I think is what you are actually asking for.
Max voltage output (Vrms) / gain multiple => input sensitivity
You can do the arithmetic .... or... you can just measure it with your DMM.
That's a long way of saying... You can put 10V IN if you want... but the voltage OUT is the limit.
What is the best way to terminate wires to the pcb pads? Should I use my newly acquired Hexagonal Ferrule Crimping Tool to add terminals to the ends? Would anyone know what McIntosh or other manufacturers use so I could consider using the same method?
^ I don't know what McIntosh does.... First Watt amps (that I've seen) have the wire directly soldered to the PCB.
I do not recommend using "bootlace" ferrules with solder.
I do not recommend using "bootlace" ferrules with solder.
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