Ah gotcha. It's that difference in notation across the pond that pops up now and then. µF is pretty common over here. Used to be mF back in the day.
I hope this is benefit to all and that Mouser continues to be a great company and help us small guys out.
I had no takers on the mini group buy. I needed 48 caps to complete all 3 power supply boards and was willing to split 100 each pricing with someone, but I couldn't stand to pay $4.73 at the 25 each price.
What to do?
I waited till they were open and called them today, let them know who I was (small fish) and asked them to give me better pricing on 50 than the 25 pricing. She asked me what I had in mind, I went for broke, $3.29 each I said (the 100 each pricing) and she said OK. I got 50 at $3.29 each.
Thought I would share this with you guys, it never hurts to ask when you have a larger quantity.
This is one reason to go for more smaller caps then a few large ones.
Rush
I noticed there isn't a drain resistor on each rail like the F5. I was going to add a small one in place of C20/21.
What resistors are appropriate for the LED at 32 VDC? I was not sure, but I think they run at 20 ma, so 1500 ohms?
Partially stuffed PS bords.
Rush
Attachments
That was the one thing I was going to comment on- the lack of bleeder resistor. I'm just gonna tack on a 3.3k 5w to each side. No big deal.
I am using three paralleled 10k for the led. Value chosen to give about 10mA at 33v rails.
The led is still pretty bright at 10mA.
I am using three paralleled 10k for the led. Value chosen to give about 10mA at 33v rails.
The led is still pretty bright at 10mA.
So Far
Couple of things before I forget.
In the BOM R25 and R26 should be equal values. For a 32 VDC +/- rails the values should be 10k ohms and R27 and R28 should be somewhere between 4.75k and 10k ohms. Depends on the idss of your 2SK/2SJ. I am using 10 idss because a have a bunch in that value and the cascode will allow me to use them here. I will have to pull R26 and replace it with a 10k.
Second thing the board needs 2 pairs of AC inputs. Not many transformers with high amp secondaries will be center tapped. I bought an 25 volt AC Antek 1000 VA with 4 secondary windings and will have to make up the pairs on a terminal block and jump to the PS board.
Third thing the 3P fixed terminal blocks are way too small for the transformer secondary windings. Wont come close to fitting, when I jumper to the PS board I will have to use 14 gage wire.
I cut some copper 1/4" plate today to mount my output boards on. The copper is 4" wide and 11" long and it is hard. I wanted to be able to move the board in the event my heatsink isn't working out. This is a lot of work and is slow going.
My work (the one that pays for all this) keeps slowing me down plus sailing on the weekends. It is tough here in Florida.
Rush
Couple of things before I forget.
In the BOM R25 and R26 should be equal values. For a 32 VDC +/- rails the values should be 10k ohms and R27 and R28 should be somewhere between 4.75k and 10k ohms. Depends on the idss of your 2SK/2SJ. I am using 10 idss because a have a bunch in that value and the cascode will allow me to use them here. I will have to pull R26 and replace it with a 10k.
Second thing the board needs 2 pairs of AC inputs. Not many transformers with high amp secondaries will be center tapped. I bought an 25 volt AC Antek 1000 VA with 4 secondary windings and will have to make up the pairs on a terminal block and jump to the PS board.
Third thing the 3P fixed terminal blocks are way too small for the transformer secondary windings. Wont come close to fitting, when I jumper to the PS board I will have to use 14 gage wire.
I cut some copper 1/4" plate today to mount my output boards on. The copper is 4" wide and 11" long and it is hard. I wanted to be able to move the board in the event my heatsink isn't working out. This is a lot of work and is slow going.
My work (the one that pays for all this) keeps slowing me down plus sailing on the weekends. It is tough here in Florida.
Rush
Attachments
All noted.
I have been doing some work on the PSU to accommodate 35mm and 40mm snap in caps and will be replacing the terminal blocks with high current pub mounting screw connectors that will accept ring or spade connectors.
Can you guys comment on the drill holes. Are they all ok?
Andy
The drill holes are on the small side for the 1/2 watt resistors. The larger resistors are fine on both PS and V2 boards. The snap caps snap right in and hold great while you solder them in.
Rush
Folks:
Would it make sense to add holes to the power supply board to accommodate 4 pin snap-in caps?
Regards,
Scott
Would it make sense to add holes to the power supply board to accommodate 4 pin snap-in caps?
Regards,
Scott
Rush:
I was imagining the Panasonic THA series, such as ECE-T1JA183EA Panasonic Electronic Components Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Snap In
Would this be a bad choice?
Regards,
Scott
I was imagining the Panasonic THA series, such as ECE-T1JA183EA Panasonic Electronic Components Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Snap In
Would this be a bad choice?
Regards,
Scott
I don't see it as bad, I see it as a good choice given a budget (Like I am on.) You can always clip the 2 extra pins if the + and - pins are the right distance. Could not tell what that distance is though. I would go for the max uF in the voltage range for sake of $/uF.
Rush
Rush:
Now that I've looked more closely at the pin spacing diagram on the datasheet, I suspect your concern is spot on -- the + and - pins are likely over 20mm apart. Thanks for the reminder!
I'm open to anyone's advice regarding electrolytic capacitors for a 100 watt F5T V3. I've always done well with Panasonic's TS-HA series, so they're high on my list but I'd like to build monoblocks using Andy's power supply boards and thought shooting for 240,000uF per channel (or more) made sense. That means caps of at least 15,000uF apiece.
Is there something out there that performs well, is large enough and fits on UKToecutter's boards?
Regards,
Scott
Now that I've looked more closely at the pin spacing diagram on the datasheet, I suspect your concern is spot on -- the + and - pins are likely over 20mm apart. Thanks for the reminder!
I'm open to anyone's advice regarding electrolytic capacitors for a 100 watt F5T V3. I've always done well with Panasonic's TS-HA series, so they're high on my list but I'd like to build monoblocks using Andy's power supply boards and thought shooting for 240,000uF per channel (or more) made sense. That means caps of at least 15,000uF apiece.
Is there something out there that performs well, is large enough and fits on UKToecutter's boards?
Regards,
Scott
Hi Scott.
I've had good experience with Kendeil caps .... some nice ones 63V 15000uf from umut1001 on ebay (on my ba3 monoblocks). He'll drop you 10% if shopping outside ebay.... worked well for me..... 🙂
I've had good experience with Kendeil caps .... some nice ones 63V 15000uf from umut1001 on ebay (on my ba3 monoblocks). He'll drop you 10% if shopping outside ebay.... worked well for me..... 🙂
I too have purchased from him with good results, not cheap though.
Don't get in a big hurry either, shipping took some time.
Rush
Hello.Somebody talking about me here thanks🙂
I have very nice caps here.Limited quantity do not miss
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vend...5000uf-40v-caps-f5-turbo-amp.html#post2981744
I have very nice caps here.Limited quantity do not miss
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vend...5000uf-40v-caps-f5-turbo-amp.html#post2981744
Panasonic 3000hours at 105C
BC Vishay 058 10.000 hours at 105C
Also i am offering very good price here .Thanks
BC Vishay 058 10.000 hours at 105C
Also i am offering very good price here .Thanks
- Status
- Not open for further replies.