Bkink, I just noticed that the burning amp 1 psu is wired that way, as 6L6 said it is common.
I think it's probably a better idea to use dual rectifier bridges with a dual secondary transformer. However, the single bridge does work, and has been used in many successful commercial and DIY projects.
I think Nelson usedit in the F5T article mainly to utilize the MUR3020 diodes.
This is a time when there is more than one correct answer to the question. Remember that we need +32v/GND/-32v clean, quiet, and of sufficient current to keep the amp happy. There are lots of ways to do that. 🙂
I think Nelson usedit in the F5T article mainly to utilize the MUR3020 diodes.
This is a time when there is more than one correct answer to the question. Remember that we need +32v/GND/-32v clean, quiet, and of sufficient current to keep the amp happy. There are lots of ways to do that. 🙂
Question - Has anybody had a successful build of a V2 or V3 using the seperate toecutter Front-end board and output boards?
I know there are a few all-in-one boards out there, I'm interested in the 3-peice (or more) boards.
I know there are a few all-in-one boards out there, I'm interested in the 3-peice (or more) boards.
I have a single bridge with two transformers tied together I am trying different things to learn. I started with single transformer single bridge.Now that I received more diodes I'll build one more bridge. One for each transformer Later separate capasitor banks I still have a small buzz only heard on quiet passages of music however I am spoiled as my F5 is dead quiet. I have had noisy risitors in the past as you can see from pictures I am using rather inexpensive ones.I will also try removing transformers from the chassis and running long wires to ps probaly next week as it's a beautiful day I'm going to take a hike.
My amp section is wired and biased;just the power supply box to make when the aluminium finally arrives.
I really must get my eyes tested. 😉
I really must get my eyes tested. 😉
hi looking good!
Back off about 6 " and then crop the pic it will be in focus then,not so fuzzie,I like the add on heatsink Idea!Good work!
NS
Back off about 6 " and then crop the pic it will be in focus then,not so fuzzie,I like the add on heatsink Idea!Good work!
NS
UKToecutter - Would you please PM me with your email? I have a few questions that you can best answer. 🙂 Thank you!
Russellc - No, I haven't yet. 3 channels worth so far... 🙁 It's not a problem, it's a challenge! 🙂
Russellc - No, I haven't yet. 3 channels worth so far... 🙁 It's not a problem, it's a challenge! 🙂
The confusion was because I used a single bridge, as in the original, and gave me 0 zero volts because I measured without the GND.
Redid everything again and found that the wires are in 48V AC.
All mounted only with a bridge, 4x MUR3020W, and was connected to 0.29V for 1 hour.
Very good sound, but there was still a slight hum, so I thought, I'll switch to two bridges, and used the KBPC3504W. I got the feeling of having reduced the level of tinnitus and it seemed more fluid sound, but perhaps it is the placebo effect!
It's a matter of doing more experiments, although the MUR are of 35nS and faster than KBC, have to find bridges faster than KBC ...
Thanks for the tip NS heres a couple of less fuzzy pics.
Aluminium arrives tomorrow so I should,fingers crossed, have a working amp in a few days time.Heatsinks on the diodes is a copy of Buzzforbs V3.
Aluminium arrives tomorrow so I should,fingers crossed, have a working amp in a few days time.Heatsinks on the diodes is a copy of Buzzforbs V3.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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It's always when I connect the imputs I hear a small hum.
With a bridge or two I hear, but I think with the two seem to give less buzz. I will test more ...
If you disconnect the RCA cables is okay, like a stone ...
I removed the 8 sinks in MUR3020W (pcb channel), they are cold, seemed antennas.
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