Got the payment, will ship on Monday. Thanks.
After your PM, I have decided to do dual mono, this would also leave me the option of mono blocks depending on /chasiss hunting....
Another 20 to the same pay pal address? If so, I'll pay pal as soon as I get home from work, this computer is too slow for pay pal!
Thanks, Russellc
I didn't even consider using rectifiers without heatsinking, so it's hard for me to say how hot they normall run. My PS pcbs allow mounting rectifiers directly on a chassis, which I find more practical than additional heatsinks. Picture below shows one of my (temporary) test setups:
I wondered about how these boards and their output devices would mount to the heatsink. It appears your board is "floating" just mounted to the leads of the outputs? If this is sufficient, then no bother. otherwise, is the heatsink itself to hot to mount standoffs to the board? I assume it would lead to problems to mount them on standoffs from the bottom of the case and then run short leads to the devices legs? Seems they should be as short as possible? What rectifiers are those nice ones shown mounted to the chassis?
Thanks, Russellc
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Mounting on leads from the outputs is sufficient. There are additional holes for standoff mounting as well, if someone wants to use wires to spread devices further way. It's been confirmed previously that even 12" wire runs shouldn't be a problem, but 220R gate resistors should be mounted directly on devices, not on the board.
The rectifiers are MUR3060
The rectifiers are MUR3060
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Thank you Peter. I am Pay pal'g the payment for the second power supply
just now.
Thanks,
Russellc
just now.
Thanks,
Russellc
Mounting on leads from the outputs is sufficient. There are additional holes for standoff mounting as well, if someone wants to use wires to spread devices further way. It's been confirmed previously that even 12" wire runs shouldn't be a problem, but 220R gate resistors should be mounted directly on devices, not on the board.
The rectifiers are MUR3060
Another question, when mounted as you show, standing off the leads of the outputs, does this subject the board to component killing heat, or is this just not a problem? I assume its not, otherwise I cant imagine you doing it that way! My brain just wonders....thanks for the quick ship on the 2nd PS board.🙂
russellc
There are no caps on a board, so heat is not an issue. Besides, it's common practice to mount the board this way, I'm not the only one doing it: http://www.marklevinson.com/image_library/33HOUTPT_lo.jpg
There are no caps on a board, so heat is not an issue. Besides, it's common practice to mount the board this way, I'm not the only one doing it: http://www.marklevinson.com/image_library/33HOUTPT_lo.jpg
Good enough for me! Now to locate a nice case and order up the other parts.
Thanks for all,
Russellc
Mounting on leads from the outputs is sufficient. There are additional holes for standoff mounting as well, if someone wants to use wires to spread devices further way. It's been confirmed previously that even 12" wire runs shouldn't be a problem, but 220R gate resistors should be mounted directly on devices, not on the board.
The rectifiers are MUR3060
There are a few different MUR3060 I see listed at Digikey, Mouser, and Newark
None seem to have the exact letters and numbers that are shown on your devices. Assuming proper package shape and a hole to bolt them down, will any of these do the job? Specs seem the same other than a slight difference in "forward voltage", i.e., 1.5 vs 1.7.
Back to reading the F-5 thread.....
Russellc
I think mine were still leaded versions, what you see now at DK are all lead free products, hence different numbers, it shouldn't make much difference though.
Is there a special reason to choose the MUR3060 instead of for instance a MUR3020? Or, why the 600V?
Thanks,
Jeroen
Thanks,
Jeroen
I might say, I'm biased by getting great results with MUR860 in GC circuits. Since I wanted 30A diodes in 'real amps', the obvious choice was MUR3060. However, I didn't compare it against anything else. So no, there are no really any special reasons here 😉
Thanks.
I need 16 of them, the price difference is a few euros between a MUR3020 and a MUR3060 😱
I need 16 of them, the price difference is a few euros between a MUR3020 and a MUR3060 😱
hi, could you give me the price for a stereo set of f5 boards and shipping to the uk please.
thanks
chris
thanks
chris
Peter, the boards arrived today, safe and sound. Amazing how small the amp boards are, Also how heavy made they were! No light weights here, nice heavy boards.....now to order up some parts.
Thanks for making these available!
Russellc
Thanks for making these available!
Russellc
Question about F5 board parts, TECH-DIY
I was looking at the Tech-Diy site for the F5 parts and have already got a question. Their F5 kit shows the following devices:
Q1, Q2 2SK170+2SJ74
Q3 FQA12P20C
Q4 FQA19N20C
Q5 ZTX550 PNP
Q6 ZTX450 NPN
Some of these numbers dont look familiar to what I have been reading here,
I assume they are correct, maybe different sources.
They also have what they call a "F5/Vishay IRF Kit" with IRF P240 and IRFP9240, which seem to look a little more familiar. Its only 26.00 while the other is 32, not that such a small amount matters, I just want the "right stuff" to start with.
Simple Question please, what do I want here, or do I need to go to other sources? Seems like several have recommended Tech-DIY, so I must be too dumb to chose, unless dumb luck saves me. Tips from anyone on what Tech-Diy has?
Thanks in advance,
Russellc
I was looking at the Tech-Diy site for the F5 parts and have already got a question. Their F5 kit shows the following devices:
Q1, Q2 2SK170+2SJ74
Q3 FQA12P20C
Q4 FQA19N20C
Q5 ZTX550 PNP
Q6 ZTX450 NPN
Some of these numbers dont look familiar to what I have been reading here,
I assume they are correct, maybe different sources.
They also have what they call a "F5/Vishay IRF Kit" with IRF P240 and IRFP9240, which seem to look a little more familiar. Its only 26.00 while the other is 32, not that such a small amount matters, I just want the "right stuff" to start with.
Simple Question please, what do I want here, or do I need to go to other sources? Seems like several have recommended Tech-DIY, so I must be too dumb to chose, unless dumb luck saves me. Tips from anyone on what Tech-Diy has?
Thanks in advance,
Russellc
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FQA's are the Fairchild devices, IRF's are the Vishay/IR.
See note here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1943639
See note here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1943639
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FQA's are the Fairchild devices, IRF's are the Vishay/IR.
Thank you for your response, since I ordered Peters boards, I wanted to do which ever builders are doing here. Seems like I remember reading somewhere in the F5 thread or this one that he preferred the IRF, but maybe I have that backwards?
Anyone have thought or knowledge about these choices for Peter's boards?
Again, TIA for information,
Russellc
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