The circuit has quite good PSRR. So the power supply is not so critical.
But Stixx spent some time trying different ones out and preferred the cap multipliers.
Maybe he could give you more details.
I just used the 317_337 CM's as they are simple and have no stability issues, being open loop followers.
Patrick
But Stixx spent some time trying different ones out and preferred the cap multipliers.
Maybe he could give you more details.
I just used the 317_337 CM's as they are simple and have no stability issues, being open loop followers.
Patrick
Just looked up International dateline to check if New Zealand had brought in the New Year yet.
Sure they have.
but discovered that Chatham Islands have a +12¾hours,
They must have brought in the New Year at 1115hrs GMT.
Sure they have.
but discovered that Chatham Islands have a +12¾hours,
They must have brought in the New Year at 1115hrs GMT.
+12hrs would be for New Zealand and many others
That would equate to 1200hrs GMT.
But Chatham Islands is 12¾ hours ahead and that would be 45 minutes ahead of 1200hrs GMT.
That would be 1115hrs GMT.
Or, have I got that wrong?
My point was that I did not know anywhere was 12¾hours ahead.
I had thought the limits were 12hours behind to 12hours ahead of GMT.
And on expanding the map to full size I see that Tonga is @ +13hrs and Line Islands is @ +14hrs.
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When we have at least 10 subcribers, which does not look like the case right now.
Or you just use the Version 1, like cwtim01 & cloud85, and us.
Or you take all 10 PCBs for Version 2.
🙂
Patrick
Or you just use the Version 1, like cwtim01 & cloud85, and us.
Or you take all 10 PCBs for Version 2.
🙂
Patrick
For clarity here is a list of the layout errors in Version 1 :
1) The supply lines for the 9V regulator for the LDR CCS need to be swapped. Easy to fix even if using LDR.
2) The current limiter has a layout error in the BJT pin assignment. Cannot be fixed. We don't use the limiter.
3) The case connection to earth needs solder resist to be scrapped off. Easy to fix.
4) The mounting hole for the LDR CCS (pointing downwards) is missing. Easy to fix even if using LDR.
Patrick
1) The supply lines for the 9V regulator for the LDR CCS need to be swapped. Easy to fix even if using LDR.
2) The current limiter has a layout error in the BJT pin assignment. Cannot be fixed. We don't use the limiter.
3) The case connection to earth needs solder resist to be scrapped off. Easy to fix.
4) The mounting hole for the LDR CCS (pointing downwards) is missing. Easy to fix even if using LDR.
Patrick
Ok. Thanks Patrick.
I need two boards so I need wait for a GB. Please, let me think it (V1 boards)
I need two boards so I need wait for a GB. Please, let me think it (V1 boards)
If you don't use LDR volume then there is no disadvantage using V1.
Even if you use LDR volume (as cloud85) it is still very easy to fix.
Of course if you want perfection then you need to wait for V2.
I cannot promise when, or ever .......
Patrick
Even if you use LDR volume (as cloud85) it is still very easy to fix.
Of course if you want perfection then you need to wait for V2.
I cannot promise when, or ever .......
Patrick
Having a V1 board, I confirm it's very easy to fix. What needs to be aware is that the boards (especially the cap multiplier board, if that's gonna be part of the package) are having quite some 0805 size SMD parts. I soldered a few of them, and I decided I need to first buy a magnifier with light before continuing.
But then, it's gonna be the same either V1 or V2 🙄
But then, it's gonna be the same either V1 or V2 🙄
Only very brave young man will dare to solder 0805 without magnifying glass, and without practice.
But I can tell you that after some persuasion and then some practice, even a 60+ year-old DIY prominent figure can also handle 0603 LEDs.
And I strongly recommend you use a hot iron (420°C) with a very sharp tip.
And 0.35mm solder, preferably leaded or low melting temperature.
You definitely want to use lower temperature when you solder SMD PPS caps (not in F5-HA).
🙂
Patrick
But I can tell you that after some persuasion and then some practice, even a 60+ year-old DIY prominent figure can also handle 0603 LEDs.
And I strongly recommend you use a hot iron (420°C) with a very sharp tip.
And 0.35mm solder, preferably leaded or low melting temperature.
You definitely want to use lower temperature when you solder SMD PPS caps (not in F5-HA).
🙂
Patrick
The cap multiplier boards are part of the delivery package.
The same goes for the Cross Feed Buffer boards.
Patrick
The same goes for the Cross Feed Buffer boards.
Patrick
With some practice, the SMD can be handled. In fact after this project, I actually prefer SMD to through hole parts. Save the hassle of trimming the leads 🙂