F4 power amplifier

well - I'm not Juma ...... but I'm saying - don't waste them for F4 ;

there will not be any benefits , just drawbacks
This concerned a question I had about using 2SK2013/2SJ313 in F4. Would anybody care to explain the reason for this being a bad idea. I don't doubt it, just don't understand why. I know on the F4 thread, there was discussion of how the mismatch of the 240/9240 fets had a part in the sound of the amp. I believe it was a factor in the 2nd vs 3rd harmonic nature of the amp. What is the devil in this detail?
 
well - calculate needed number of them to have same current capacity as originals , then calculate what's capacitance as seen from driving end ; then decide .

maybe that wasn't so bad idea as I implied , but I prefer using some other - more robust - laterals for said job .

Zhou have them all :rofl:

edit: - I'm not tricky for not saying numbers , but too lazy to remember ( even if I have them in my shop) and too lazy to see what outputs are used in EUVL's SUSY F5 ; I'm thinkin' on those
 
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In a 25-30W SUSY version of BA-2, they seem doable. I am going to build the standard F4 and F5. Then compare to J4 and J5(J for Juma!) should be easy switch with minimal changes. ZM, have you tried them in your Pumpkin? Have less gain, so i guess this would hurt V swing.
 
My F4 is up and running: finally!

My crude approach:
PS wiring and supply voltages have tested out before wiring up amps
40W light bulb, in a fixture, in series with ac LINE of amp (after the fuse)
plug amp to a dedicated power strip –with the switch off-
P1(bias pot ) reading 5k and P2(offset pot) at 250R
Power up from remote power strip looking for:
a momentary surge light for less than half a second then out
if instead you get a lasting (more than .5 sec) bright white- or smoke
-shut it off- !!! you have problems –duhh-
if smoke free and output dc offsets of less than ~1 volt
check the voltage across D1 and D2 for around 8v
zero the output offsets
slowly run bias up reading voltage across .47R source resistors
~30mv is about the limit for 40W bulb
~60mv for 100W
check them all -R16 through R21for variations of more than 10-20mv from the avg. reading
+20mv could mean the fet is not in good thermal contact with heatsink
or bad Vgs matching, a bad fet, messy soldering, etc.
With the light bulb out of the circuit run bias up reading ~170mv across .47R source resistors
If you can’t reach 200mv replace R9 with lower value ~6K
zero the output offsets again
let the chassis warm up and adjust for 200mv, or 250mv and zero the output offsets again
Enjoy


-Mal

Thanks so much for this: after having parts sitting around for a long time I finally did the metalwork and got my F4 going using these extremely clear and helpful guidelines.

I'll post pictures as soon as I can: in the meantime it's sounding fabulous with my Pi Seven speakers. I'm using an Audio Research LS-3 preamp to drive the F4, but my plan is to build a BOZ.

And thanks of course to Nelson: we met briefly at the Burning Amp and you were kind enough to provide me with some transistors and a heatsink, among other bits.

The bass control and ability to separate instruments is the most striking first impression: Head Hunters is electrifying, and Charles Mingus' bass is astonishingly lifelike. Oh, and it's absolutely completely quiet: I've never had an amp so quiet.

It's replacing a Music Reference RM-9, which is no slouch, and has done great service over more than 15 years.

Tim
 
That looks like the picture you see in the dictionary if you look up
craftsmanship.

I like the rake of the channel boards.

😎

You are too kind. I"m not much good at metalwork, so I used a standard door lintel extrusion (a bit thin, but cheap) damped with that stick on stuff you get for car panels, and a bit of plywood with redwood strips for the front and back.

I angled the power boards because I thought it would spread the heat across more of the fins.