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F1 Group Buy

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#83
Re: Payment in-Thanks!

Joschl said:
Hello,
just paypaled the money for two stereo sets. I hope it was in time...
Best regards
Joschl
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Donovad said:
Updated Wiki and sent payment via PayPal. Thanks for your hardwork on the Group Buy.

Regards, Daniel.
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belkinmousepad said:
I'm glad I found this GB! I've been interested in the F1 since I heard about them. I need something new to power my Lowthers. I sent payment today...hope I'm in time.
Thanks again for providing a way to make a wish come true!

:wave2: :cloud9: :worship:
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Great! Joschl, Daniel, belkinmousepad you are in time for the GB.


The deadline is today Monday Jan 12th US pacific time to order boards. Any orders received today will be accepted in the GB. A few spares will be ordered, but to guarantee you can get F1 boards please order by today US Pacific time.

Thank you,

-David
 
#91
samsagaz said:
i will start purchasing all the components to build the

F1-F3-F4 and F5 Amps.

i want to purchase it just one time, because i will order internationally from Mouser or Digikey and dont want to spend a lot of money on multiple orders, i want to know if the following BOM are revised 🙂

http://www.hifimaker.com/documents/F1-BOM.pdf


Regards
Click to expand...


I dont think there are enough MUR3060 to make to full bridges.

I use 512-FFPF30U60STU X 8 (for two channels) or 844-GBPC3506A for block full wave bridges. Both from Mouser. The fairchilds fit on Peter Daniels PS boards diode breakoff easily. The MUR3060 are 3-pin and need to have a wire soldered from middle to end as Peter shows in WTB F3-F5 thread.

The block units are cheaper and simpler to install. Good to use on the test bench.
 
#92
samsagaz said:
i will start purchasing all the components to build the

F1-F3-F4 and F5 Amps.

i want to purchase it just one time, because i will order internationally from Mouser or Digikey and dont want to spend a lot of money on multiple orders, i want to know if the following BOM are revised 🙂

http://www.hifimaker.com/documents/F1-BOM.pdf

Regards
Click to expand...
The F1 BOM is unchanged, except for the addition of items 13 (10 ohm 3 Watt offset resistors) and 31 which are the Sila-pads for the power mosfets. The rectifier diodes were adjusted as per Tea-Bags observation.


Tea-Bag said:


I dont think there are enough MUR3060 to make to full bridges.

I use 512-FFPF30U60STU X 8 (for two channels) or 844-GBPC3506A for block full wave bridges. Both from Mouser. The fairchilds fit on Peter Daniels PS boards diode breakoff easily. The MUR3060 are 3-pin and need to have a wire soldered from middle to end as Peter shows in WTB F3-F5 thread.

The block units are cheaper and simpler to install. Good to use on the test bench.
Click to expand...

Thanks Tea-Bag, good catch.

A revised F1 BOM is now posted.
http://www.hifimaker.com/documents/F1-BOM.pdf

-David
 
#94
samsagaz said:
Thanks again for your support David, i really appreciate it, i will try next week to puchase the components, please dont send me the boards yet 🙂
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The boards are slightly delayed, and I'm expecting them to arrive next week. I'll hold off on sending you your boards until we communicate by email, like we discussed.

Glad to help!

-David
 
#96
Build Help

I am slowly but surely collecting all the necessary parts for this build and have a very basic question so please forgive me in advance. How exactly can one go about "matching" these small resistors ? There are numerous posts that talk about it in general terms but some specifics would sure help. Will a Fluke 179 get me close ? The parts i was able to purchase matched i did but that leaves me with the small resistors.

Thanks all, Daniel.
 
#97
Re: Build Help

Donovad said:
I am slowly but surely collecting all the necessary parts for this build and have a very basic question so please forgive me in advance. How exactly can one go about "matching" these small resistors ? There are numerous posts that talk about it in general terms but some specifics would sure help. Will a Fluke 179 get me close ? The parts i was able to purchase matched i did but that leaves me with the small resistors.

Thanks all, Daniel.
Click to expand...


1% metal film resistors should match pretty well anyways.

Just take a good Volt Meter and measure in ohm setting with lead on each end of the resistors. Pick the ones that are closest in value.

The micro clip lead attactments to voltmeters are a good investment, are very nice for measureing a resistor without it moving all around the place.
😀
 
#98
hifimaker said:
I've posted construction and assembly instructions on my website. It would be great to have a few of the participants provide feedback and critique.

Please email me directly with your comments and I'll make any necessary changes.

http://www.hifimaker.com/F1_DIY_Amp.html

-David
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David,

Thanks for the link - that looks very useful as I have only built (successfully) various chip amps (I did build another set of amps but before they could be adjusted they blew up - 3 of them!!).

A question on the matching - I gather from your instructions that the resistors for instance should just be close in value for say R1 etc. I take it that the reason is purely to ensure that the two channels are themselves matched.

I will be spending some of the weekend going through Nelson Pass's article on matching mosfets. A lot of reading / learning to do before starting to build - probably a good thing the boards are delayed as I can then get better organised.

Alan
 
#100
i was checking the BOM and i have a few questions.

TH1-TH4 KC006L-ND this can be replaced with CL60 INRUSH CURRENT LIMITER?

DR1-DR4, can use FFPF30U60STU instead MUR1560GOS-ND?

can someone please point me to the Nelson Pass's article on matching mosfets ? i will purchase more mosfets so i can try to match it!
 
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