Right I was thinking this also, and why I asked. Reasons I've come up with so far:
Also, the idea is inspired by the Sonja 3.2. However I do see that speaker also comes in a dual 10.
https://www.yg-acoustics.com/products/sonja-3-2/
- All things being equal, lower distortion and better power handling, for:-
- Option to extend and reinforce bass at a later time with seperate subs
- Allow for a tighter midrange driver, while being able to cross lower to keep directional frequencies as much as possible playing on mids
Also, the idea is inspired by the Sonja 3.2. However I do see that speaker also comes in a dual 10.
https://www.yg-acoustics.com/products/sonja-3-2/
Hmm, 13543/pi/80 = ~53.89" dia., though on a baffle and setting on the floor drops it by 4x = 13.47" dia. or a little bigger than a 15" or dual 12", so obviously to go smaller you'll need more Xmax/power handling or as you say, a multiple sub array, preferably ala Dr. Geddes or similar.
Better SQ is in the 'ear of the beholder', so for me it's high eff., meets my PRaT (pace, rhythm & timing), polar response requirements.
Better SQ is in the 'ear of the beholder', so for me it's high eff., meets my PRaT (pace, rhythm & timing), polar response requirements.
@maFrodite i don’t think you’re crazy but I do not think you are gonna be stressing the single purifi mid crossing at 100-250 hz; your ears will be hurting before they do. I’d rather have 4 Dayton rs 12’s distributed myself but I’m interested to see your project come along. Have fun!
Have not yet taken the plunge into subwoofers, although I understand it's inevitable if one wants bass that doesn't resemble Swiss cheese.
Hence the desire for full range.
Setting TM, MTM aside. Any opinions on crossover point between the PTT 6.5" and 10"? It will no doubt inform my choice on the M or W variant.
Hence the desire for full range.
Setting TM, MTM aside. Any opinions on crossover point between the PTT 6.5" and 10"? It will no doubt inform my choice on the M or W variant.
Hmm after having a tinker in WinISD, yep you are bang on. With a single PTT6.5M, LR4 80hz, it hits max cone excursion at ~1.5dB below the maximum SPL of the 10". As for the MTM, safe to say it's not even breaking a sweat. The single 10" really is the limiting factor here, but hey that's at 109dB...
So I think that rules out the PTT6.5W.
So I think that rules out the PTT6.5W.
Have you thought of running a pair of 6.5Xs in each speaker up front full range and the 10X's in different boxes with the same tuning frequency as the 6.5s in a sort of 2.5 way multi sub arrangement? Four separate bass sources will flatten out the bass response in your room.
Interesting idea. I had thought of that. This hobby has a me thinking in circles and forgetting where I started. I believe that really is the best option for an endgame system.
However. Cost is a factor here, and as I do not currently have subwoofers, nor do I wish to lay out the cash right now for plate amps or prebuilt subs... so the compromise in the full range 3-way seems best.
Of course, if I did not use Purifi drivers, then I could build the whole lot probably for less. But where's the fun in that? 😉
Edit: oh I read that too fast. Right it's using a similar amount of hardware, configured differently. Very good option.
Is there now a compromise in the midrange with the 6.5X playing bass and vocals?
However. Cost is a factor here, and as I do not currently have subwoofers, nor do I wish to lay out the cash right now for plate amps or prebuilt subs... so the compromise in the full range 3-way seems best.
Of course, if I did not use Purifi drivers, then I could build the whole lot probably for less. But where's the fun in that? 😉
Edit: oh I read that too fast. Right it's using a similar amount of hardware, configured differently. Very good option.
Is there now a compromise in the midrange with the 6.5X playing bass and vocals?
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Wow. That system is sweet. I had considered an Octo DAC. Very expensive and I don't get to choose a preamp or nicer DAC implementation, so decided for better or worse to go with analog active for this build. Digital is so tempting though. The endless power for xover filters is a game changer. But for now you can pull my tube preamp out of my cold dead hands 😆
Oh, forgot to mention, I want to have a sealed alignment. Does that change this recommendation?
Oh, forgot to mention, I want to have a sealed alignment. Does that change this recommendation?
Since my build has only one 6.5M over one 10-inch on each side, I sure hope that two 6.5's would be middle-heavy! ;-)
The answer depends a lot on room size and how loud and dynamic you like it. If I built and powered for double 6.5's, it would be too loud for the neighbourhood. And I would damage my hearing further.
I will have the 10-inchers towards the top of their box and the 6.5's at the bottom of their box. Will play with an electronic crossover to see what I like best. The 10-inchers are flat up to 1000Hz. But then a lot of vocal emission could shift below. And I want to keep voices together.
I have the cabinets and all the drivers except for four passive radiators now. Another vendor now has the missing radiators I want in stock. But the folks from whom they were first ordered keep saying, "next week"... Deadline is 13th December now. Really want to start with the integration work.
Note: the 6.5Ms also have passives in my build since they do double duty for surround sound purposes with full-range signal. Otherwise I would have gone sealed on top and only had passives underneath with the 10-inchers.
The answer depends a lot on room size and how loud and dynamic you like it. If I built and powered for double 6.5's, it would be too loud for the neighbourhood. And I would damage my hearing further.
I will have the 10-inchers towards the top of their box and the 6.5's at the bottom of their box. Will play with an electronic crossover to see what I like best. The 10-inchers are flat up to 1000Hz. But then a lot of vocal emission could shift below. And I want to keep voices together.
I have the cabinets and all the drivers except for four passive radiators now. Another vendor now has the missing radiators I want in stock. But the folks from whom they were first ordered keep saying, "next week"... Deadline is 13th December now. Really want to start with the integration work.
Note: the 6.5Ms also have passives in my build since they do double duty for surround sound purposes with full-range signal. Otherwise I would have gone sealed on top and only had passives underneath with the 10-inchers.
My experience with the ptt6.5X and pr:
It is very clean up to its limit that is reached when playing loud.
A crossover at 80hz free it up and peaks spl are better sustained.
Multiple subwoofers are the best way to fight the biggest challenge of sound reproduction in room.
So, depending on your needs of spl and if you don't have really big room, I would go with:
For high impact and high price 2x PTT10 but it will not resolves the room at low frequencies if they are in a tower speaker.
For the price of one PTT10, you should have 2 or 3 good subs.
All this advices are for an active system, dsp.
- Room is 5m x 4m x 2.5m
- Average spl, C weighting and slow, are 70db for casual listening and up to 85db few loud sessions
It is very clean up to its limit that is reached when playing loud.
A crossover at 80hz free it up and peaks spl are better sustained.
Multiple subwoofers are the best way to fight the biggest challenge of sound reproduction in room.
So, depending on your needs of spl and if you don't have really big room, I would go with:
- Only one PTT6.5.M because it will not be the limiting driver
- One PTT 10 sealed (maybe 2 db lower than the mid) or a PTT8X to lowering the price + subwoofers
For high impact and high price 2x PTT10 but it will not resolves the room at low frequencies if they are in a tower speaker.
For the price of one PTT10, you should have 2 or 3 good subs.
All this advices are for an active system, dsp.
Thanks for the tips, that helps. Apologies if this has already been discussed but it’s a long thread. What are the trade offs between PTT6.5 M, W, and X. I can read the spec sheet, so I guess I’m looking for educated usage tips.
Why would one choose the X over the M if both were playing well within their limits? Is it merely a sensitivity/box volume concern?
Or is there some sonic reason, such as ‘better transients’, or ‘lower excursion is better for clarity’? Of course I’m guessing here. Appreciate your help in making sense of the various options beyond mere specs.
Why would one choose the X over the M if both were playing well within their limits? Is it merely a sensitivity/box volume concern?
Or is there some sonic reason, such as ‘better transients’, or ‘lower excursion is better for clarity’? Of course I’m guessing here. Appreciate your help in making sense of the various options beyond mere specs.
The X came first. Some changes are for customers needing higher sensitivity drivers eg. Low power amp users.
Eg. PTT6.5W-08 can work in a smaller cabinet, and would suit a direct replacement for, say, SEAS W18E-001, with a port.
Make your choices based on total system design requirements… eg. form factor, SPL required, extension required, available amplifier power.
Without clear targets you may end up in analysis paralysis.
PS; The PTT 8 or 10.0 has such a flat FR. It’s seems such a waste to just use as a subwoofer. I would use as a midwoofers or woofer.
Eg. PTT6.5W-08 can work in a smaller cabinet, and would suit a direct replacement for, say, SEAS W18E-001, with a port.
Make your choices based on total system design requirements… eg. form factor, SPL required, extension required, available amplifier power.
Without clear targets you may end up in analysis paralysis.
PS; The PTT 8 or 10.0 has such a flat FR. It’s seems such a waste to just use as a subwoofer. I would use as a midwoofers or woofer.
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You read my mind. I’m already leaning away from the PTT10.0 to cheaper, dual subs and a lower xover. Those mids are so impressive they put other drivers out of a job.
Great info, thanks.
~105dB in bass region. Extension for 2 channel listening with synth/electronic bass, no movie requirements to speak of. Bass amp class D monos 900W@2Ω (chifi, so maybe half that in real power). mid/hi amps are class a/b 200W@4ohms. Oh yeah, I know intimately the analysis paralysis death spiral 🌀