LMAO!just mount the tweeter directly to the woofer's cone and hope it doesn't come flying off at you!
Tentatively, a distance of 0.75" from dome base to top of motor shorting ring will line up the cone to dome at xmax (xmax of me maxing out travel by hand). I'm not actually thinking waveguide anyhow, unless you assume the PTT cone acts as the wave guide, hence the main issue of shifting position. But if the tweeter is at mid point in the cone perhaps this is optimal, where it's close to the woofer centerline but relatively clear of cone proximity. Here's a good starting position for the dome IMO:
That would depend on where you score your dust cap. Mine is a proprietary fiber blend. 0.008" thickness and 1.5 grams. Mix, match and season to taste.
But yeah we do "lil rendering." Master plan is to render everyone's speaker and circuit simulations on DIY and upload them into the Googoo Central Brain. The hand rubbing at Open Ai intensified when I informed them of the sheer volume of theoretical crossover implementations. Chatbot is planning good things for Classical Civilization.
But yeah we do "lil rendering." Master plan is to render everyone's speaker and circuit simulations on DIY and upload them into the Googoo Central Brain. The hand rubbing at Open Ai intensified when I informed them of the sheer volume of theoretical crossover implementations. Chatbot is planning good things for Classical Civilization.
Antics aside-
A smashed fiber cap (read, smashed beyond repair), is fairly easy to remove. Don't use a heat gun. What ended up working much better was to cut slits in the center and gently peel away from the glue line. The cap is not structural, at least not like the cone, which is much thicker material. Because of the difference in thickness the cap tends to give way leaving the cone unaltered. Now what you do beyond that point is up in the air. Maybe there are similar geometries to be had at repair shops. At any rate you can probably remove and replace a garbage cap for next to no money.
A smashed fiber cap (read, smashed beyond repair), is fairly easy to remove. Don't use a heat gun. What ended up working much better was to cut slits in the center and gently peel away from the glue line. The cap is not structural, at least not like the cone, which is much thicker material. Because of the difference in thickness the cap tends to give way leaving the cone unaltered. Now what you do beyond that point is up in the air. Maybe there are similar geometries to be had at repair shops. At any rate you can probably remove and replace a garbage cap for next to no money.
So I mustered up the courage to inspect the damage closer, and attempt some sort of repair on my driver today. I was hoping it would just be a cosmetic dust cap repair.
It is with a heavy heart I inform you gentlemen, the driver is no longer with us.
Upon closer inspection it was apparent the amplifier had pumped so much power into it that the excursion has maxed out the surround travel, and bent one side of the edge of the cone back toward the inside (magnet side). The cone no longer travels linearly, and the VC starts to rub with any more than about 50w into it.
There was nothing the doctors could do.
🤣
It is with a heavy heart I inform you gentlemen, the driver is no longer with us.
Upon closer inspection it was apparent the amplifier had pumped so much power into it that the excursion has maxed out the surround travel, and bent one side of the edge of the cone back toward the inside (magnet side). The cone no longer travels linearly, and the VC starts to rub with any more than about 50w into it.
There was nothing the doctors could do.
🤣
@mainframe99 --not so fast! Nothing on that kit is off limits to repair. I have my 6.5 completely stripped to parade-rest. All it took was a pointy object, a small flat screwdriver and my fingers. I will be doing some heavy modding to mine, including different cone geometries/materials and totally different spider design. I'll offer to hook yours up too, in exchange that you do the A/B testing to figure out what sounds good and what does not. All you really want in top shape is the motor and the VC winding. Everything else is just stuff glued to other stuff, i.e. you can work on it.
The alternative is that Purifi step up and help out; at least get us access to parts. A 700$ boat anchor is totally unacceptable. These CAN be refurbished.
TexTreme anyone?
The alternative is that Purifi step up and help out; at least get us access to parts. A 700$ boat anchor is totally unacceptable. These CAN be refurbished.
TexTreme anyone?
On my driver this part has torn as the edge of the cone has been pulled and pushed.
I think it had about 600~1200W going through it for about 4 -5 seconds. The part of the track playing was brutal low end EDM synths. It is clear the cone and coil tried free willy the fu** out of the motor. The speaker was about 2m from me when it happened, I thought a bomb had gone off. After I finally switched it off there were dogs barking and car alarms going off. /jk
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Maybe future driver testing show only allow to use 10w amp. In fact, having a integrated unit, DAC, amp, mic input, only need to plug into USB and automatically integrated with REW would be very popular.
On the upside, at least it went out to something good, and not the slow death of 'sample tunes' at every hifi show ever!brutal low end EDM

Haha mate, I dont build speakers & buy purifi to listen to Keith Dont Go. You gonna waste that IMD performance on empty audiophile recordings? I listen to modern electronic, rap, rock music, the kind busy of stuff that audibly scales as IMD goes down in your transducers.
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unfortunately, thanks to the elimination of Force Factor Modulation in the Purifi motor the BL keeps constant even at huge positive current (what causes the outwards push). a conventional motor has a negative current squared force term that limits the force or actually turns the force negative at very high current
@mainframe99 another for the front page - https://lyngdorf.steinwaylyngdorf.com/lyngdorf-cue-100/ but the price (even if it is for a pair) 😱
Absolutely beautiful woodworking! I love all the custom router jigs you made to create the spheres. The structure inside the big sphere for absorbing reflected sound is really interesting. Did you add it after trying the sphere without it, or was it part of the original plan?
🤣empty audiophile recordings?
Oh god the Aurum Cantus guy, that was ALL he had on his hard drive. 1990s vintage to boot. Most anything can sound lovely with solo female light jazz etc etc. It's cranking up the Motorhead that separates the lumberjacks from the wimps...well...er...
daughter
“ that speaker looks like a snowman!”
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