Ryssen, don't wait for me to finish, it could take months! I'd just go with the known working board on Mike's website if you want to get going in the near future. 🙂
gaborbela said:
Hi Jeno:
PCBEX did not usually acknowledge the receipt of Gerber files when I ordered from them last time. You may send them an EMAIL inquiring the status of your order if you wish. They makes beautiful PCBs.
I use www.advancedcircuits.com. They make really nice boards. You can get a free quote on line after you register.
HI
Ryssen if PCBEX from US does not anwer about my board order I will be up for 2pc .
But please lets wait a couple days .
Regards
Ryssen if PCBEX from US does not anwer about my board order I will be up for 2pc .
But please lets wait a couple days .
Regards
I`m in no hurry.😉
Quoted at Advanced Circuits and i was:QTY 10 = 25dollar 20 14dollar
25 = ?......
in Sweden QTY 20 = 15.64 dollar.
Well.....🙄
HI
Finaly I got answer from the pcb house (pcbex).Tomorow I will order pc boards for me and for my frend if some one need boards please let me know now .
There is a minimum orde 5pc but I will order 6 so 2pc will be extra .
The board cost $12 each plus $18 shipping .
Regards
Finaly I got answer from the pcb house (pcbex).Tomorow I will order pc boards for me and for my frend if some one need boards please let me know now .
There is a minimum orde 5pc but I will order 6 so 2pc will be extra .
The board cost $12 each plus $18 shipping .
Regards
Well the boards where cheap,🙂 but the shipping
is this to Sweden or just to you?this was kind of short notice,but I´m in for two.As I wrote I could arange It,if someone doesnt get this run that you are doing,I could arange another one.Just let me know.
As I wrote I´m in for 2 boards,but look into that shipping.
Do you take paypal?🙄
HI
The $18 shipping cost is from USA to Canada , for the 6 boards , I will slit the shipping cost , of course after I will have to shippe to you it usualy cost $10 to Europe for a small package .
Tim ordered boards from here and said the quallity is great.
In case if no one else need I order 6 board .
But I wait until tomorrow morning so let see ,and after I place the order.
Regards
The $18 shipping cost is from USA to Canada , for the 6 boards , I will slit the shipping cost , of course after I will have to shippe to you it usualy cost $10 to Europe for a small package .
Tim ordered boards from here and said the quallity is great.
In case if no one else need I order 6 board .
But I wait until tomorrow morning so let see ,and after I place the order.
Regards
gaborbela,
Please continue this in private via email. It's a small issue now, if you get much more interest then we may move to a GB thread.
Ryssen,
Just click on the email tab to contact gaborbela on this subject. Anyone else interested, please do the same.
-Chris
gaborbela said:
Be sure to specify for the heavier gauge copper, there is no additional charge.
Maybe this has been discussed before,is it possible to use MJE 15032/33 instead of MJE15030/31?
Hi Ryssen,
You can add a DC protection circuit on another PCB. There is no DC offset detect or over current detect on this board.
-Chris
Yes, but they will have lower DC beta and may be a little slower than the MJE15030/31 due to their being higher voltage parts. This may not make that much difference. The only thing you can do is try.
You can add a DC protection circuit on another PCB. There is no DC offset detect or over current detect on this board.
-Chris
why did my fuse blow on v+ psu (use +25 - 0 -25 psu) ??
I have check pcb layout and is correct , I use toshiba SC3281 and 2SA1302 ?
using wire on fuse caps 100uF and 1000uF is explode
I have check pcb layout and is correct , I use toshiba SC3281 and 2SA1302 ?
using wire on fuse caps 100uF and 1000uF is explode
Hi dytln_02,
Did you say the fuses are shorted with wire??
I would check the outputs, drivers and bias transistor, replace the caps. When you try powering up next time, use a variable power supply and watch the current draw and DC offset while bringing up the power slowly. Use either fuses or 1 ohm resistors across the fuse holders. Never use wire!!
Take measurements (try using the bias control first) to give us some clues. There is no way to troubleshoot with no information.
-Chris
Did you say the fuses are shorted with wire??
I would check the outputs, drivers and bias transistor, replace the caps. When you try powering up next time, use a variable power supply and watch the current draw and DC offset while bringing up the power slowly. Use either fuses or 1 ohm resistors across the fuse holders. Never use wire!!
Take measurements (try using the bias control first) to give us some clues. There is no way to troubleshoot with no information.
-Chris
The only thing I can think of which would make caps explode is reversed polarity - either the cap is mounted in reverse or the ps +/- is reversed. Well the only other thing might be caps severely underrated.
Sheldon
Sheldon
Hi dytln_02, NEVER short fuses with wire, they are there to stop worst things like exploding elyts ! 
Like Sheldon already said, there are not many ways to explode elyts, it's likely that you accidently reversed polarity for the elyts on the V+ side. Is there enough left of the elyts to see how they were soldered in ?
The easiest to way to ensure correct polarity is to have a look on my website and compare the photos against your board.
As the 100uF also blew, you should check r31 if it is burned.
Maybe you swapped V+ and GND from the PSU ? In this case you might expect more devices blown... (q4/q5/q12 would be candidates)
It's likely that you now have to clean all the pcb from the elyt spreaded around from the exploding caps.
Did you say Toshiba sc3281/sa1302 ? Where did you get these ?
(fake alarm bells ringing...)
Ryssen, the mje15032/3 are fine, they already have been used without problems. About the DC-protection, i use the symasyms without, none of my versions ever blew up. When initially powering up a new amp i use old speakers, with these i do not feel pain when they get destroyed. A delayed turn on is not necessary with symasym, it does not generate audible turn on/off thump.
If you have very expensive speakers you still have the option to add a DC-protection externally.
Mike
Like Sheldon already said, there are not many ways to explode elyts, it's likely that you accidently reversed polarity for the elyts on the V+ side. Is there enough left of the elyts to see how they were soldered in ?
The easiest to way to ensure correct polarity is to have a look on my website and compare the photos against your board.
As the 100uF also blew, you should check r31 if it is burned.
Maybe you swapped V+ and GND from the PSU ? In this case you might expect more devices blown... (q4/q5/q12 would be candidates)
It's likely that you now have to clean all the pcb from the elyt spreaded around from the exploding caps.
Did you say Toshiba sc3281/sa1302 ? Where did you get these ?
(fake alarm bells ringing...)Ryssen, the mje15032/3 are fine, they already have been used without problems. About the DC-protection, i use the symasyms without, none of my versions ever blew up. When initially powering up a new amp i use old speakers, with these i do not feel pain when they get destroyed. A delayed turn on is not necessary with symasym, it does not generate audible turn on/off thump.
If you have very expensive speakers you still have the option to add a DC-protection externally.
Mike
no polarity is correct
In my country you can found many fake.. Blackgate caps, nichicon, elna and other...
you can buy transistor grade A, B, C (C from chinese, B from korean and C is original)
I use Toshiba sc3281/sa1302 grade C...
May be because of this transistor, i will lower my psu and try again..