planet10 said:
They did get better with each step...
dave
That is very encouraging. So thanks Bud and Dave. It'll take a while to go through all those threads and finalise on an EnABL pattern for the 168ES.
While on the subject, which is the optimum enclosure for the 168ES, given the various versions of Chang's among others? In other words, which enclosure would extract the best from an enABLed 168ES?
Thanks,
Samuel Jayaraj said:In other words, which enclosure would extract the best from an enABLed 168ES?
I can only guess... Auston A166 or Hiro...
dave
G'day,
Made up an enABL strip for a guy from work to try in the port of
his 3-way floorstander bass reflex over the weekend.
PVC duct tape on bottom, Scotch magic tape on top, Norton All
Weather tape for the blocks.
I can't quote his exact comments otherwise this post might get sent to Texas. 😀
Needless to say he was astounded and will now do the baffle and all external edges of his cabinets.
I'll ask him to write me his listening inpressions to post here.
Cheers,
Alex
Made up an enABL strip for a guy from work to try in the port of
his 3-way floorstander bass reflex over the weekend.
PVC duct tape on bottom, Scotch magic tape on top, Norton All
Weather tape for the blocks.
I can't quote his exact comments otherwise this post might get sent to Texas. 😀
Needless to say he was astounded and will now do the baffle and all external edges of his cabinets.
I'll ask him to write me his listening inpressions to post here.
Cheers,
Alex
No - didn't take any of the strip and I haven't physically seen the speaker apart from photo's on my friends mobile phone.
What did you want to see?
What did you want to see?
Originally posted by planet10 - post #150
G'day Dave,
Had another look at this pic just now.
I find that for the enABL to work optimally you need to enABL the
entire circumference of the opening.
See pic below - markings in red.
Cheers,
Alex
Attachments
Good to see you back reporting on 'surface' EnABLing and blocks again Alex.
Cheers ........ Graham.
Cheers ........ Graham.
Another tweak that really helps the 1354a driver is strengthening the basket. The thin steel basket is quite flexible and can be improved substantially.
I used strips of .080 aluminum cut to length and curved slightly. Fit the braces so that they wedge between the magnet and the rim of the basket. Glue them in with J-B Weld. The 5 minute version is strong enough for this task. You can fill the waist between the magnet and basket with Mortite to help dampen the basket.
Pic of the mod:
http://www.pacifier.com/~gpimm/images/1354_mod2.jpg
I used strips of .080 aluminum cut to length and curved slightly. Fit the braces so that they wedge between the magnet and the rim of the basket. Glue them in with J-B Weld. The 5 minute version is strong enough for this task. You can fill the waist between the magnet and basket with Mortite to help dampen the basket.
Pic of the mod:
http://www.pacifier.com/~gpimm/images/1354_mod2.jpg
Cal Weldon said:These sound good.
RS 40-1354's done to the T's by Dave
RS 40-1354A's were my first FR driver (still got them somewhere).
They are a nice sounding driver pre-EnABL, with Dave's magic on them they would be awsome.
Cheers,
Alex
Gary P
off topic, please check your emails as you have one from Mark Jeffs asking for your opinions on nickle core vs other core type interstage"s.
Bud
off topic, please check your emails as you have one from Mark Jeffs asking for your opinions on nickle core vs other core type interstage"s.
Bud
Hi Alex. The only thing they need is a different box. They are aperiodic loaded but still have the "box" sound.
Hi Alex. The only thing they need is a different box. They are aperiodic loaded but still have the "box" sound.
Gary, I like the strengthening idea.
Gary, I like the strengthening idea.
Cal Weldon said:They are aperiodic loaded but still have the "box" sound.
That's easy to fix - just EnABL around the port and baffle!!
I you are interested, give me the measurements of your box and port and I'd be happy to walk you through the process.
Cheers,
Alex
Or quit cheating and put them in a proper box. They might even end up OB or better yet IB. 🙂 Thank you for the offer though.
Aw, come on Mr. Weldon...try it out. Your compliantly brief sig line says "always curious". I think that it will make a huge improvement. 😀
Cal Weldon said:Hi Alex. The only thing they need is a different box. They are aperiodic loaded but still have the "box" sound.
That was one of those 3-ply, japanese plywood boxes, intended to be a temp for a set of Jordans (ie one step up from a cardboard box) but Chris got carried away with making them pretty.
I'd recommend Hawaii http://myhifisite.50megs.com/hawaii.html or Bob Brines ML-V http://geocities.com/rbrines1/Pages/Straight_Pipe.html -- some conceptional variations http://www.t-linespeakers.org/FALL/bipolar/index.html
dave
Dave, you know very well you are the one who will decide, you know my tastes. But Dave, there's a more pressing project in the q. nudge nudge wink wink, know what I mean, say no more say no more
And I've noticed they have been up and running for a bit now so I guess the box isn't that bad. 🙂 They are replacing a bi-amped 4 way after all and there's no hurry to go back.
Cheers
And I've noticed they have been up and running for a bit now so I guess the box isn't that bad. 🙂 They are replacing a bi-amped 4 way after all and there's no hurry to go back.
Cheers
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