alex,
You have a nice shade of pink there on the picture. Maybe it's the light.
Yes, I have been practicing that and I have even made two templates from some cast off Pioneer cones for the inner and outer swaths. Eventually, that should make my pattern more steady than trying to freehand it.
You have a nice shade of pink there on the picture. Maybe it's the light.
Yes, I have been practicing that and I have even made two templates from some cast off Pioneer cones for the inner and outer swaths. Eventually, that should make my pattern more steady than trying to freehand it.
Alex from Oz said:
Kinda hard to tell from the low rez picture, but the edges seem kinda fuzzy (not that i know if that is a good thing or a bad thing). What kind of applicator did you use,
dave
Sorry, mobile phone pics so not really clear.
Used a brush, but the damar I have did bleed a little at the edges.
Is all damar the same?
Cheers,
Alex
Used a brush, but the damar I have did bleed a little at the edges.
Is all damar the same?
Cheers,
Alex
Alex from Oz said:
I suspect hat the liquid you buy in the stores could difer brand-to-brand in the solvent/carrier used.
dave
Alex,
I'll check tomorrow if there is a Turps free version down here in Melb - there's quite a few Art specialist stores and might get lucky.
I'll check tomorrow if there is a Turps free version down here in Melb - there's quite a few Art specialist stores and might get lucky.
Damar is a tree resin. Turpentine is a tree product. Sort of a natural fit. However, I tend to look at the preference for turpentine over mineral spirits or synthetics as I do high priced speaker cables. If you really need to spend money, buy turpentine.
Bob
Bob
Alex,
Eckersleys, and a few others down here, only have the Turps based Dammar varnish - was referred to "St Lukes Art" that also have the base crystals and suggested trial/error - resin crystals cost about $25 for 500gms. A lot of speakers!!!
Dave,
Can you tell what the "Eco house" Damar Varnish uses as a base and/or ingredients on the side of the bottle - will save a lot of stuffing about with "goo"!!
On "The Altmann BYOB Amplifier" site, Charles discusses varnish, different resins, etc and also some that don't dissolve in turps - and as Bob says, there appears to be different types of turps, white spirits, etc - I think this could desolve into a seperate project of it's own!
Eckersleys, and a few others down here, only have the Turps based Dammar varnish - was referred to "St Lukes Art" that also have the base crystals and suggested trial/error - resin crystals cost about $25 for 500gms. A lot of speakers!!!
Dave,
Can you tell what the "Eco house" Damar Varnish uses as a base and/or ingredients on the side of the bottle - will save a lot of stuffing about with "goo"!!
On "The Altmann BYOB Amplifier" site, Charles discusses varnish, different resins, etc and also some that don't dissolve in turps - and as Bob says, there appears to be different types of turps, white spirits, etc - I think this could desolve into a seperate project of it's own!
jameshillj said:
damar resin, isoparaffinic mineral oils, natural orange terpenes, linseed standoil
Made in Fredricton, NB, Canada http://eco-house.com/
dave
Ah, I was afraid it'd be somthing like that - the dammar resin plus a proprietry mix of paraffin, orange oil "turps", and linseed oil.
It would be much more practical to continue with the small bottles as only small quantities of the tried and tested varnish are required and so, avoid the larger bottles "going off".
It would be much more practical to continue with the small bottles as only small quantities of the tried and tested varnish are required and so, avoid the larger bottles "going off".
G'day All,
My apologies for my dummy spit a few days ago.
Eco-House damar will be my choice for future 126/127 pre-treatment.
In any case, the damar I used has still provided the desired effect.
James, thanks for your efforts in searching for turpentine-free damar alternatives. I have also searched but have not found anything in Oz.
Cheers,
Alex
My apologies for my dummy spit a few days ago.
Eco-House damar will be my choice for future 126/127 pre-treatment.
In any case, the damar I used has still provided the desired effect.
James, thanks for your efforts in searching for turpentine-free damar alternatives. I have also searched but have not found anything in Oz.
Cheers,
Alex
Alex from Oz said:
Note that i am still using the same bottle of damar i bought some 5 years ago (almost out). Besides the occasiona other experiment, i have done over 400 FE126/7.
The last bottle i got (still unopened) cost jst over $10 CAD IIRC. Postage to Oz will be more.
dave
Searching for something else i ran across this thread which should be referenced here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=133383
dave
dave
planet10 said:
Thanks dave. A few extra dollars for the 'right' damar for the job is worth it.
I'll just spread the cost across the 400 or so drivers I plan to treat! 😀
Cheers,
Alex
Real slick job on the backside (email me about the real trick back of bezel stuff), but with invisible spots they look unfinished on the front.
dave
dave
Alex must have the "stealth" EnABLs on there.
😉
I am following closely what they are saying about the Bob Brines tests with phase plugs or EnABL. Opinion on the process is still very divided.
I could use an opinion on how I can do the EnABL on my one FE127e that has the whole cone Damarred rather than the trifoil pattern. That Damar job was done when I didn't understand the sequence correctly for this Fostex driver.
😉
I am following closely what they are saying about the Bob Brines tests with phase plugs or EnABL. Opinion on the process is still very divided.
I could use an opinion on how I can do the EnABL on my one FE127e that has the whole cone Damarred rather than the trifoil pattern. That Damar job was done when I didn't understand the sequence correctly for this Fostex driver.
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