ugh. i really hope its very very forgiving! this driving is soo small esp the one around the phase plug. some of my dots blurred together into a line. i even went to use a needle!
nukaidee,
No caffeine for at least a couple of hours before you try to do the patterns. These tiny movements are just too hard when your nervous system is hopped up. When the paint on the phase plug dries, use a pointed wooden toothpick to scrape an opening back into the line. If you are very careful and your hands are steady you can use the point of an exacto knife, laid over on it's side so that the edge angle is flat to the cone, to pick out the center section of paint on a cone.
You might stop back at that hobby shop with the paint and see if they have some cheap magnefier glasses. Made of plastic, with a flip down set of plastic lenses to add to the ones that are permanent and an adjustable head band, they will fit over glasses, are cheap, and make the small dots easy to do, well, easier to do.
Bud
No caffeine for at least a couple of hours before you try to do the patterns. These tiny movements are just too hard when your nervous system is hopped up. When the paint on the phase plug dries, use a pointed wooden toothpick to scrape an opening back into the line. If you are very careful and your hands are steady you can use the point of an exacto knife, laid over on it's side so that the edge angle is flat to the cone, to pick out the center section of paint on a cone.
You might stop back at that hobby shop with the paint and see if they have some cheap magnefier glasses. Made of plastic, with a flip down set of plastic lenses to add to the ones that are permanent and an adjustable head band, they will fit over glasses, are cheap, and make the small dots easy to do, well, easier to do.
Bud
lol. no caffine for me ever. i wonder if i can take that paint off with alchohol.. i will probably have to try again. its the curve that makes it that much harder
Alcohol and a Q tip will work well on the phase plug. Might remove the aluminum paint from the cone though. Isopropyl, 99% pure is the best for this and in one or two droplet amounts, can keep the paint liquid for years. Just remember to always wipe out the lid and the top of the bottle before you begin to use the freshly shaken paint. If you put it away unclean the seal will not mate properly and the paint will dry out rather quickly.
Bud
Bud
EnABLing the B20s ?
Sorry guys for changing the subject, but I seem to be unable to find an answer to my question through the search function:
Has anyone EnABLed the Pioneer B20s? You know, they are ribbed(the cone) and it seems that it may pose a problem. I am a complete novice at this DIY or at the Hi-Fi thing for that matter (but I do like listening to music). I have recently acquired a pair of voigt pipes equipped with B20s from "Cervelorider" and decided to add a tweeter. As I was researching what kind and how to do it I came across the EnABL process and got interested.
I would appreciate any input.
thanks
Branko
Sorry guys for changing the subject, but I seem to be unable to find an answer to my question through the search function:
Has anyone EnABLed the Pioneer B20s? You know, they are ribbed(the cone) and it seems that it may pose a problem. I am a complete novice at this DIY or at the Hi-Fi thing for that matter (but I do like listening to music). I have recently acquired a pair of voigt pipes equipped with B20s from "Cervelorider" and decided to add a tweeter. As I was researching what kind and how to do it I came across the EnABL process and got interested.
I would appreciate any input.
thanks
Branko
Re: Re: EnABLing the B20s ?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1414914&highlight=#post1414914
dave
planet10 said:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1414914&highlight=#post1414914
dave
so I've tried to remove the enabl dots with rubbing alchohol.. apparently it doesn't remove it =( so i took a knife and tried to scrape it apart such as Bud suggested, some of it worked, but i think its pretty dangerous. however.. even with all this ugliness and mistakes. i can definitely hear a difference. =)
One of my test speakers has not ribs but circular brush strokes from the Modpdge, thick version. I was skeptical on even playing it. Now i think I will connect it up.
I find it useful to have q-tips and a bit of water at hand for glitches like the merging of 2 dots. I find that it is best to just let the Q-tip suck up the paint while still wet. Trying to rub it off right off the bat can make the mess worse. This is one of the bonuses of having a pre-coated or metal cone -- it is possible (to mostly) to recover from glitches.
dave
dave
yes, but now it is all dry. and alcohol isn't taking it out. i think i will try nail polish remover next..
Not much news in this thread.
In BudP's phrase I suppose he would say I am training my ears. Well to that I'm skeptical but I've be fooling around what seems an inordinate time getting two boxes on a switched system for a/b testing that is satisfactory. I've had a failed channel on the one setup on my PC. My other source requires setting up a manual switch. It's like a whole new batch of gear is needed to do this without constantly switching things.
Anyway that's the update. I want to test a variation with home brew phase plug on these NSB's. And attempt the pinpoint EnABL on that as well. NSB's have been documented pretty extensively at Parts Express from back when they were selling them.
NSB comes from the phrase in the movie "no stinking badges." NSB's is easier to write than Pioneer K1VAB 10-1028LA/XCN.
In BudP's phrase I suppose he would say I am training my ears. Well to that I'm skeptical but I've be fooling around what seems an inordinate time getting two boxes on a switched system for a/b testing that is satisfactory. I've had a failed channel on the one setup on my PC. My other source requires setting up a manual switch. It's like a whole new batch of gear is needed to do this without constantly switching things.
Anyway that's the update. I want to test a variation with home brew phase plug on these NSB's. And attempt the pinpoint EnABL on that as well. NSB's have been documented pretty extensively at Parts Express from back when they were selling them.
NSB comes from the phrase in the movie "no stinking badges." NSB's is easier to write than Pioneer K1VAB 10-1028LA/XCN.
diary,
I am still here. Haven't heard from the other EnABLers though. My fingers got dry and I physically haven't been able to do any pen work.
What is needed is being able to do the fine inside dots and on a sample small phase plug. I haven't been able to do the small ones with any consistency or method.
Also in a related thread there is discussion about a whole cone treatment. But please keep that separate from the how-to.
cheers
I am still here. Haven't heard from the other EnABLers though. My fingers got dry and I physically haven't been able to do any pen work.
What is needed is being able to do the fine inside dots and on a sample small phase plug. I haven't been able to do the small ones with any consistency or method.
Also in a related thread there is discussion about a whole cone treatment. But please keep that separate from the how-to.
cheers
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