loninappleton,
I suspect your hearing is good enough for EnABL. If you can still hear birds in the trees and crickets in the grass, your spotted speakers will reveal more musical values to you.
In a general sense, more than 72 dots in a ring set will elevate high frequencies, perhaps only in phase, but certainly quite audible. Less than 72 will begin to roll off those same frequencies, in the same fashion. The range without really noticeable change, is about 10 dots in either direction.
This is why we use only 12 dots for the center dome tip, we want to turn off that tip, as a radiation area of importance.
Bud
I suspect your hearing is good enough for EnABL. If you can still hear birds in the trees and crickets in the grass, your spotted speakers will reveal more musical values to you.
In a general sense, more than 72 dots in a ring set will elevate high frequencies, perhaps only in phase, but certainly quite audible. Less than 72 will begin to roll off those same frequencies, in the same fashion. The range without really noticeable change, is about 10 dots in either direction.
This is why we use only 12 dots for the center dome tip, we want to turn off that tip, as a radiation area of importance.
Bud
It's all fascinating but more than a little incomprehensible to me aside from just the proof of the pudding. I should have a rough test going pretty soon just for my own satisfaction.
After that some more controlled and precise applications.
After that some more controlled and precise applications.
diary,
Today I made a sample using the generic template resized down to 2.5 inches for one of the small test speakers.
So the number of dots should be accurate. Olny the outer ring is done.
These look more like dots than dashes and the paint is not flowing as I would wish for good control. What I can report is: I made it once around.
hooray.
Yesterday I cut the holes for my test box which has been cannibalized from some commercial/finish your own speakers from Speakerlab many years ago.
Off topic but I want to try threaded inserts on this test as well rather than t-nuts.
Today I made a sample using the generic template resized down to 2.5 inches for one of the small test speakers.
So the number of dots should be accurate. Olny the outer ring is done.
These look more like dots than dashes and the paint is not flowing as I would wish for good control. What I can report is: I made it once around.
hooray.
Yesterday I cut the holes for my test box which has been cannibalized from some commercial/finish your own speakers from Speakerlab many years ago.
Off topic but I want to try threaded inserts on this test as well rather than t-nuts.
bread crumbs
Reading and then hopping to links and back has always been difficult for me.
Today I went back to an earlier tips post from Dave's early experiments with the Damar on FE127e. A true bread crumb was in there:
The measurement for making your trifoil inner and outer template patterns are
9mm and 17mm from the cone edge. By eye, the inner ring is obviously just above and between the wire connections.
http://fullrangedriver.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=535&p=1
Is this still the case?
[Dave those rows and rows of identical trifoil patterns in your shop pictures drives me wild.]
And you wrote that you tried the Q-tip with difficulty over brush. I still don't know if a tiny foam pad would be too squishy as well.
Plus I would like to have a 'stealth marking device' of some light color to mark the cones of the FE127e for application of the Damar. I don't want to use lead pencil for these things.
Reading and then hopping to links and back has always been difficult for me.
Today I went back to an earlier tips post from Dave's early experiments with the Damar on FE127e. A true bread crumb was in there:
The measurement for making your trifoil inner and outer template patterns are
9mm and 17mm from the cone edge. By eye, the inner ring is obviously just above and between the wire connections.
http://fullrangedriver.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=535&p=1
Is this still the case?
[Dave those rows and rows of identical trifoil patterns in your shop pictures drives me wild.]
And you wrote that you tried the Q-tip with difficulty over brush. I still don't know if a tiny foam pad would be too squishy as well.
Plus I would like to have a 'stealth marking device' of some light color to mark the cones of the FE127e for application of the Damar. I don't want to use lead pencil for these things.
diary,
Over the last couple of days I retrofitted two commercially made small speaker boxes with a fresh baffle cut to fit the Pioneers to test my EnABL job.
The Pioneers are under 4 inches and spec'ed at 15k rather than true full range. The boxes are small, lightly stuffed and have a defacto port ont he rear where I took off the interconnect.
I sure like listening to my 167e build better. Little boxes are annoying but I have to go through this to satisfy my curiosity.
Hard to say if I will be able to give a good description of sound from this hack.
🙄
I intend to complete the EnABL Pioneer with the stealth ring at some point to get the practice.
Over the last couple of days I retrofitted two commercially made small speaker boxes with a fresh baffle cut to fit the Pioneers to test my EnABL job.
The Pioneers are under 4 inches and spec'ed at 15k rather than true full range. The boxes are small, lightly stuffed and have a defacto port ont he rear where I took off the interconnect.
I sure like listening to my 167e build better. Little boxes are annoying but I have to go through this to satisfy my curiosity.
Hard to say if I will be able to give a good description of sound from this hack.
🙄
I intend to complete the EnABL Pioneer with the stealth ring at some point to get the practice.
i can't get Floquil Poly Scale paint here. Would model master's acrylic paint work? it is made by the same company, testors.
nukaidee,
Indeed this stuff is hard to track down. Earlier in this thread Ed LaFontaine said that the Model Master acrylic sold in places like Hobby Lobby here is not the right consistency but that it can be thinned with a couple drops of isopropyl. See Ed for exact details on this.
I have gone so far as to contact the local model railroad group. The Floquil was made for model railroad detailing. I received no reply from them. Either they don't know or don't read their gmail account. Very disappointing.
Ed put together his package of materials for this specific purpose and, I'll guess, for the reason that things like Floquil are in limited distribution.
Indeed this stuff is hard to track down. Earlier in this thread Ed LaFontaine said that the Model Master acrylic sold in places like Hobby Lobby here is not the right consistency but that it can be thinned with a couple drops of isopropyl. See Ed for exact details on this.
I have gone so far as to contact the local model railroad group. The Floquil was made for model railroad detailing. I received no reply from them. Either they don't know or don't read their gmail account. Very disappointing.
Ed put together his package of materials for this specific purpose and, I'll guess, for the reason that things like Floquil are in limited distribution.
of course. but budget is tight and the canadian dollar sucks and shipping is bad. so i am trying to hunt down things as cheaply and locally as possible. do you remember if it was a post by ed or should i email him about thinning model master?
nukaidee said:
I have some of that but haven't tried it. Pollyscale is scarce because of french labeling requirements. Phone around to all the scale rail stores.
Note that driving from one end of Calgary to another and pack can pay for a lot of postage.
dave
of course =) but i sip gas at 6L/100km in my camry in city. I will call around, I work 2 blocks away from a couple craft / hobby shops.
If you get in a pinch, and don't care what colour, i can get some of what is left from the local scale rail store that carried it (but is shutting down -- if they haven't already). I can maybe scare up a couple 0.58 mH chokes to amortize the Canada Post.
dave
dave
do you happen to have the rest of those components for the notch filter? the 6.8uF cap and the 6.8 Ohm Resistor? I dont really care about the color.. the cone is silver. probably anything will look okay on it. I'm just wondering if I need the first ModPodge layer. I have some sitting around but i think its quite old. Got it at walmart many years ago. the paint should only be about 3-4 dollars? I will call a couple more places around here first.
edit: i found local supply of polyscale. its 6 dollars =) and its right on my way home! yay! but again.. is the base coat of modpodge worth it on such a small driver? I'm worried about saturation
edit: i found local supply of polyscale. its 6 dollars =) and its right on my way home! yay! but again.. is the base coat of modpodge worth it on such a small driver? I'm worried about saturation
nukaidee said:
Probably. 6.8R might have to be built-up.
No. The cone is already coated (it is paper with aluminum colored coating)
Typically about $5.
Cool. Let me know what colours they have -- i need to get some more.
dave
sure. i'll write down the numbers i see there.. unless if they have alot. lol. should i just email it to you?
planet10 said:
Because this 871 is a 3" I need to ask:
Which nib are you using to get that fine of dot? ( hope the pic reprints.)
On my 3.5 inchers I'm not getting things small enough. I can put on a trace amount but that isn't getting anywhere. But a full dot spreads to beyond the template.
Other thing I am going to try eventually is decorating the phase plug I made for the Pioneer. My technique is not very good yet.
loninappleton said:
Been a while since i did these. An A3 (or a 56 with multiple strokes) on the outer ring and either 56 or 99 for the inside spots.
dave
#99 is a new one on me.
Maybe they have those at the store.
I just need a general purpose way to make the extra small ones.
Maybe they have those at the store.
I just need a general purpose way to make the extra small ones.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.