I had mine powder coated but it's almost exactly the same color blue.
I like the paint job and I agree with you about the clear cover versus the steel cover. I like looking at the PCB, the big AN caps and other components all softly lit up by the back-glow from the 2A3/300B LEDs and the LEDs of the power control modules. I had my transformer cover powder-coated a bit brighter blue by our local hot rod shop, It came out pretty nice.
(The Elrog 300Bs with their bright filaments really light up the amp, visually and sonically)
But seeing the light show from yours with the volume knob removed has gotten me thinking -- maybe I can find a clear knob to use. I really like the colorful display. The green in particular made me think of the Incredible Hulk.
Great job and thanks for sharing.
Steve Z
(The Elrog 300Bs with their bright filaments really light up the amp, visually and sonically)
But seeing the light show from yours with the volume knob removed has gotten me thinking -- maybe I can find a clear knob to use. I really like the colorful display. The green in particular made me think of the Incredible Hulk.
Great job and thanks for sharing.
Steve Z
Hello Elekit lovers - I am close to ordering a TU-8900 and tubes from Victor, and I would appreciate any input regarding 'best bang for the buck'. The Elekit would be fed by a DEQX DSP/Crossover/Preamp. The amplifier would drive 2 8ohm open baffle speakers, about 93db sensitivity, a Troels Gravesen design. I also use 2 powered subs driven by the DEQX unit, and currently crossed over at 80hz. Room size is 24' x 14' x 8.5' Any recommendations gratefully received 😉
@Steviewunda for me if I had to order another one now, I would take the updates offered by Victor (lundhal, transistors,...) but I would not take the Cossor 300b, just the Cossor 2A3. Or just 'invest' more and take the WE300b but as I didn't have the chance to hear them I don't know if it's a big diff with the Cossor... I think the 2A3 are the best bang for the buck in my opinion.
I go along with Ayaka -- get the full boat from Victor. Transformers, resistor package, Audio Note caps, etc. Unless you really like desoldering and upgrading parts several times -- and there is nothing wrong with that if that is your thing -- it might be more expensive in $$$ up front but much more economical in terms of your time and peace of mind.
Likewise, Victor's prices on tubes, especially the new stock Western Electric 300B tubes, are the best around.
Tubes are really a matter of personal taste and system synergy. While 2A3s can drive 93dB sensitivity speakers that is a pretty big room you have. Unless you listen near-field you may find you are happy for the extra watts a good 300B can provide. And to my ears at least the Western Electric 300Bs are the best I've heard in the TU-8900.
Regardless of what you decide I think you will love the Ele-kit TU-8900.
Steve Z
Likewise, Victor's prices on tubes, especially the new stock Western Electric 300B tubes, are the best around.
Tubes are really a matter of personal taste and system synergy. While 2A3s can drive 93dB sensitivity speakers that is a pretty big room you have. Unless you listen near-field you may find you are happy for the extra watts a good 300B can provide. And to my ears at least the Western Electric 300Bs are the best I've heard in the TU-8900.
Regardless of what you decide I think you will love the Ele-kit TU-8900.
Steve Z
Regarding tubes I have listened to Takatsuki and WE300B (new production). As many has described them the We:s have slightly better bad and Takatsuki are more airy. There is absolutely a difference and I guess one have to guess what’s the best match to the rest of the gear. But the nicest sounding tubes are my Sylvania 2A3 from 1945. 80 years old and plays so, so beautiful. They are something special. I do own all three of them. Takatsuki in my main system, WE with my detailed and clear headphones (benefits from the WEs signature) and the 2A3 on shelf only to be used on ”special occasions”.😊
Regarding upgrades: My first build had regular Lundahls. The second one amorphous Lundahl + AudioNote,z-foil, Takman and Amtransresistors. AudioNote silver cap and an Upgraded volume pot. I haven’t made a really serious comparison yet. But a quick listening gave the impression of more delicacy and air with the upgraded one. But I’ll try to make a more focused comparison later and I’ll get back after that.
But the 8900 are good from the beginning and even better upgraded. For me it was worth it to go all in event if the increase in cost was substantial.
Regarding upgrades: My first build had regular Lundahls. The second one amorphous Lundahl + AudioNote,z-foil, Takman and Amtransresistors. AudioNote silver cap and an Upgraded volume pot. I haven’t made a really serious comparison yet. But a quick listening gave the impression of more delicacy and air with the upgraded one. But I’ll try to make a more focused comparison later and I’ll get back after that.
But the 8900 are good from the beginning and even better upgraded. For me it was worth it to go all in event if the increase in cost was substantial.
Regarding tubes: can JJ 2A3 -40 be used? I understand that they are different in some way compared to regular 2A3?
I just wanna add that your small tubes matter just as much your output tubes. Currently running RCA black plate 12bh7s, but honestly, a cheap psvane 12bh7 beat out every single 12au7 I’ve tried.
I second the recommendations to go all the way with Victor's upgrades, particularly the Lundahl transformers. I also second the recommendation for 2A3 tubes. They are plenty powerful in the TU-8900 for those open baffle speakers. I'm using Linlai Global Elite and have been very happy with the sound. I also agree with Victor on the 12BH7 tubes.
Thanks to you @dcgibby and @broccoli_rabe for the nudge to revisit 12BH7s in my TU-8900. I gave them a try early on but pulled them in favor of a pair of Telefunken smooth plate 12AU7s.
Perhaps I hadn't gotten enough hours on the Ele-kit back then and conflated the sound of not fully broken in transformers and caps with the sound of 12BH7s, but my impression was that the sound was kind of brash and in my face.
So tonight I swapped the pair of US NOS 12BH7s I got from Victor back in after giving a good listen to a familiar album via my Sony MDR-Z1R headphones.
Both sets of driver tubes sound very nice, but very different. The Teles are masters of deep space and almost psychedelic long trails of reverb and decay. Very trippy.
The 12BH7s are all about sparkle and pop and dynamic swing, perhaps reflective of their greater ability to drive the 300Bs relative to the 12AU7s. They really make the Sony 'phones, which can be a trifle dark with the 12AU7s, open up and shine.
Tomorrow I'll do some listening with the TU-8900 driving my Avantgarde Duos and the same two configurations. Should be interesting.
Steve Z
Well, look at this handsome man!
https://www.stereophile.com/content...music-sparkler-stenheim-sun-valley-and-elekit
Nice coverage, Victor!
Steve Z
https://www.stereophile.com/content...music-sparkler-stenheim-sun-valley-and-elekit
Nice coverage, Victor!
Steve Z
I’m running mine with Avantgarde Zeros!
Sounds, as you might suspicion, mighty fine. Tonight Sylvania 2A3 from 1945 together with NOS CBS 12BH7. Looking forward to your impression pairing with Duos.
I fitted a clear lid but my vanity wish for amber instead of green lights as tube indicator. Is that possible to change?
Attachments
Sure, as long as whatever color LEDs you want are the same ratings at the green ones currently installed you could swap. They are turned on and off by the voltage control modules that sense whether you have 2A3s or 300Bs installed.
Steve Z
Steve Z
Hi yall, I humbly come to the thread asking for help in diagnosing and repairing my amplifier. I’ve noticed the volume on my left side channel to be weaker than the other. It seems like the problem is somewhat resolved when I press the smaller tube down into the socket and put a bit of force onto the board. As this was my first time ever soldering anything im assuming it was my shoddy work on the tube sockets. I ordered and got in some new Belton noval sockets already. Before I disassemble and desolder, I thought I’d list the near by test points just in case you guys think it might be something else:
1. 2.9
2. 2.9
3. 122
4. 63
5. 121.5
6. 76
7. 168.5
8. 201.3
Thank you so much in advance for any tips or advice you can offer!
1. 2.9
2. 2.9
3. 122
4. 63
5. 121.5
6. 76
7. 168.5
8. 201.3
Thank you so much in advance for any tips or advice you can offer!
Please check your right channel ( soldering points). 99% is the soldering issue
Hi Victor - I have been enjoying my TU-8900 amp for about 100 hours, but today it had a blown fuse (2A because I am in New Zealand with 230v supply). I replaced the fuse and the amp is running again. All my test points are good - do I need to worry? Could I use the 4A fuse if it blows again?
It also happened to me (also 230). At the time, I had the volume on 100% when I started the amp, I don’t do that anymore now. But I also wrote to Victor and here is his reply:
I talked to Mr Fujita.
He suggests to use 3A or the max 4A slow blow fuse. We use 4A fuse in USA, Canada and Japan.
If the fuse is blown when the power is turned ON,
it must be due to too high rush current.
The check points seem to be no problem
Thanks
Victor
I talked to Mr Fujita.
He suggests to use 3A or the max 4A slow blow fuse. We use 4A fuse in USA, Canada and Japan.
If the fuse is blown when the power is turned ON,
it must be due to too high rush current.
The check points seem to be no problem
Thanks
Victor