I have tried a couple of caps there and ended up with Duelund Cu/Sn instead of VCap. But old age means that I don't remember exactly the reason. Should've written these things down... Anyway, I do have a few interesting ones, as well as a Jupiter Copper 0.1uF and AN Copper 0.1uF installed in other amps/dacs that can be borrowed. But unfortunately don't have any AN Silver. If someone sends me a pair of AN Silver I can do a big comparison. 😉 That'd be fun!
I will not recommend to install the cap same as this photo. It is not safe.
The about photo has a 1997 version of 300B... I suggest you to use a current production WE300B to test with VCAP CuTF.
I only recommend VCAP CuTF or Audio Nore Silver for TU-8900. The version reviewed by Herb is based on AN silver caps and 46 pcs of AN Resistors.
The about photo has a 1997 version of 300B... I suggest you to use a current production WE300B to test with VCAP CuTF.
I only recommend VCAP CuTF or Audio Nore Silver for TU-8900. The version reviewed by Herb is based on AN silver caps and 46 pcs of AN Resistors.
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1997 production is the worse version and very short life in production.
Which one sound better.. sometime you need to look at what type of music.
Western Electric has a wider band width. It is good for all types of music.
Cossor/Linlai WE300B's bands width is narrower. It is extremely good with vocal music.. It you are listening to vocal, it is much better than Western Electric
If you are listening to wider range of music, Western Electric 300B is better. I an talking about current producrion Western Electric 300B.
Which one sound better.. sometime you need to look at what type of music.
Western Electric has a wider band width. It is good for all types of music.
Cossor/Linlai WE300B's bands width is narrower. It is extremely good with vocal music.. It you are listening to vocal, it is much better than Western Electric
If you are listening to wider range of music, Western Electric 300B is better. I an talking about current producrion Western Electric 300B.
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I think you would be hard pressed to find an audible difference between most 2A3 tubes, but the 5 year warranty on those EmissionLabs are tempting. I'm currently using the LInlai Global Elite 2A3 and they are quite nice. Much more accurate and natural than the Cossor 300B I tried.
I suspect Victor meant to say the way the caps are installed is not safe. Pretty sure I concur with that.
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First test of my just built Elekit 8900. Initial relief that everything works as expected is soon replaced by a strong astonishment over its sound! It’s incredible. My Luxman LX380 is used as a preamp with the Elekit. The music is transparent (audio lingo that previously sounded, well, mostly like talk…). Bas is much stronger so I had to adjust my Avantgarde by lowering the bas. After changing bas level it’s quick and airy with a firm bas. Lundahl transformers, vintage RTF ECC82, NOS Sylvania spring top 2A3 from 1945.
Amp was set up with feedback and after a quick listening session I think I’ll leave there to start wjtj
Amp was set up with feedback and after a quick listening session I think I’ll leave there to start wjtj
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Is there any different sound wise by changing the voltage amplification tubes from 12au7 to the other option (12bh7?)?
Well, I think so at least. I find I like the sound of Telefunken 12AU7 better than Sylvania 12BH7 but the Sylvania's aren't bad by any means. However, it is a matter of nuance and personal preference and not, in my opinion a make it or break it difference.
Steve Z
Steve Z
I think someone mentioned EML mesh plate 2a3. I am using the standard solid plate 2a3. They work well and have a powerful sound. I really like the EML tubes. Their 300b is also great.
Very nice. I share your feelings about the EML tubes. I'm currently running a pair of EML mesh-plate globes in my Sunvalley SV-S1645D amp and also have a pair of EML solid plate 45s for the Sunvalley.
EML 300Bs in the Ele-kit are extremely nice and I do like mine, though my personal preference by a small bit is for new production Western Electric 300Bs. Either one is a great choice and likely comes down to speakers or headphones being used at the moment. I haven't tried the EML 2A3s yet but now you have me curious!
It's good to have choices, and the TU-8900 allows a wide range of experimentation.
Steve Z
EML 300Bs in the Ele-kit are extremely nice and I do like mine, though my personal preference by a small bit is for new production Western Electric 300Bs. Either one is a great choice and likely comes down to speakers or headphones being used at the moment. I haven't tried the EML 2A3s yet but now you have me curious!
It's good to have choices, and the TU-8900 allows a wide range of experimentation.
Steve Z
Maybe a stupid question - but isn’t it possible to bypass the volume pot entirely? I read a few posts about upgrading the volume pot but since I have volume on the pre I wonder if I really do need it?
Yes. But I prefer mine without a pre-amp. If you don’t need the additional drive, the extra manipulation of the signal hides some of the nuance of a SE DHT. Maybe listen two weeks without the preamp, then two weeks with pre (volume pot full open) before making any changes. Don’t forget to turn the volume down again if you remove the preamp from the system!
My experience is similar with Rob7. Mine is directly connected to my DAC and volume is controlled by the tu8900. I tried inserting a preamp and added gain but the resolution is compromised. I took out the preamp since my DAC's output is more than 2mv, I have enough gain and preferred without the preamp.
.25V? That seems awfully low even for an older phono stage. Might want to double check that.
Are you using NFB? Try it without. Considerably more gain and sounds much better…with the right speakers.