Not to get off subject, but, I have a tube amp that runs in pure class "A" output. I have been listening to the Tung-Sol KT120 tubes for a while now and like them. My question is what noticeable differences would I hear? Thanks!
Thank you guys for your comments 🙂I have a lot of nice pentodes from 6L6G to KT150 from KR Audio.
@Jarous How do you like the sound from the KR Audio KT150's? I know the price for a pair are higher than giraffe ears..LOL
From my understanding, the SQ from the Tung-Sol KT170's really shine after 200 hours or so. I have 2 pair coming here today for my tube amps. They will be running on pure class A output from amps. I purchased them from Tube Depot here in the USA. They offer a 24 hour burn-in on them at a small charge. We shall see. I have been using the Tung-Sol KT120's and have to say they do sound good to me in my system! Hopefully the 170's will be a step up 🤞
From my understanding, the SQ from the Tung-Sol KT170's really shine after 200 hours or so. I have 2 pair coming here today for my tube amps. They will be running on pure class A output from amps. I purchased them from Tube Depot here in the USA. They offer a 24 hour burn-in on them at a small charge. We shall see. I have been using the Tung-Sol KT120's and have to say they do sound good to me in my system! Hopefully the 170's will be a step up 🤞
To my ears sound from KR Audio KT150 is near perfect (running them in triode mode) and they look superb compared to Tung-Sol. I have also KR Audio KT88, they were my first and they are also perfect sounding tubes. Price of KR Audio tubes is higher than other brands, but quality is awesome and they are made in Czech Republic 🙂
Hello all,
I’m nearing completion of the 8850 kit I got from Victor. A question — what’s the best way to solder the coupling cap leads to the pins in the circuit board? I’ve looked at the photos in the thread, but the resolution isn’t great. As a beginner, I’d like to do this right, so I thought I should ask. Note, the more detailed the answer, the better, please.
Thanks,
Greg
I’m nearing completion of the 8850 kit I got from Victor. A question — what’s the best way to solder the coupling cap leads to the pins in the circuit board? I’ve looked at the photos in the thread, but the resolution isn’t great. As a beginner, I’d like to do this right, so I thought I should ask. Note, the more detailed the answer, the better, please.
Thanks,
Greg
@Jarous Thanks for the feed-back! So the KT-88KR versus the KT-150KR tubes, could you describe the differences between the two in SQ? Also, would you describe the sounds from the Tung-Sol 170's as far as what your ears here? I want to see if what I am hearing compares to what you're hearing. My only concern would be how well they would work running them on pure class A operation. I believe that one issue was using Psvane KT88 tubes that are not built to handle this type of output! They can't handle the voltages from my amps! Thanks!!!
Hi Greg. I didn’t use the solder pins that came with the kit. I just soldered the cap leads directly onto the circuit board pad. I figure one solder point is better than having two solder points on each side of the cap. Less to go wrong and easier to remove if needed.
KR KT150 are (from my point of view) KR KT88 on "steroids", they can handle more current and they are bigger in terms of space and in terms of soundspace. Both KR KT are very good sounding tubes (running them fixed bias, trioded and SE), but compared to DHT tubes 2A3M, 300B or AD1M from EML are DHT tubes better in terms of details and warmth. To be fair..., must say that this is my subjective feeling. I cant compare KR KT with TungSol K170 because I never had them, I dont like TungSol appearance and from where they come...(try to stay correct on this forum).
@Hifihunter and @dcgibby — Thanks for your responses! I’m planning to try different coupling caps, so I ended up going with the pins.