ELEKIT TU-8200R

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that's why asked
thanks again!
 
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Just another question from someone who has the original TU8200 and has done the resistor bypass mod for the headphone output covered in the earlier pages of this thread. Would it be a feasible solution to use the Rothwell inline attenuators before the line inputs of the amp to reduce the gain and get more usable volume range from the pot? Would be interested to hear if anyone has opinions on the Rothwell attenuators.
Input attenuators need to be optimized for each source-amp combination. What I see on their side is just technical BS hiding this issue and other nonsense claims. Interestingly, they somehow "forgot" to mention the most important parameter of their product - the load impedance for the source. I would not by a single pack of toothpick from them.
 
Hi people. I'm new to the forum so first and foremost thanks for having me.

I built the TU-8200R and want to share some of the experiences I made with the combination of TU-8200R and it's headphone out using sensitive IEM or cans (22 Ohm / 55 Ohm), regarding all types of noise. First and foremost: basically all the problems I had (and still have) with any type of noise are to blame on the RCA cables I use in my setup. The setup itself may be a problem also. When I hook my phone to the inputs of the TU using a dongle-DAC and RCA to 3,5 mm jack there is no audible noise at all.

When I use the line out of a 230V powered DAC, it all depends on the RCA cable I use:

T-amp on full gain, Triode mode:
RCA cable 1: DAC/T-amp ON results in high frequent noise. DAC OFF/T-amp ON results in hum. This cable picks up noise like an antenna. 8$ cable off of Amazon.
RCA cable 2: DAC/T-amp ON results in less audible high frequent noise. DAC OFF/T-amp ON results in SILENCE. So slightly better. 10$ cable.
 
What causes a ground loop hum?


Ground Loop Hum is caused by a difference in electrical potential at grounding points. ... When you have more than one piece of equipment in your sound system connected to a common ground through different paths, like different outlets on the same circuit, you can get a ground loop.

I had this problem until I put in a ground isolator on the farthest equipment.
 
Do I need to buy a matched pair for the 12au7 ?

I read that it is not necessary for the power tubes because of the automatic bias, but haven't been able to find any mention of whether this also applies to the 12au7s as well.

The 12AU7 is a double triode itself, you have 4 triodes in two tubes. What does "matched pair" mean here?

Thanks paczeltf, I did not know that. I ask because at checkout from a shop I noticed the option for getting matched pairs:

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I suppose I thought there was one 12AU7 per channel, and that perhaps they had to be sufficiently similar in order for both left and right to sound the same.

Do you mean that this is not a concern and that any two 12AU7 of the same model should be fine?
 
Just built an Elekit PS-3249R (all the components are soldered using the obvious info in the instructions, and the photograph) for installation in my 8200. Now it's time to set the jumpers (J1-J11). My Japanese is non-existent.

Anyone here have an English instruction translation or a photo of your completed unit that allow the correct jumpers? I plan to use the DAC as designed for the 8200. USB from my Apple laptop, and the external wire to the RCA #2 input.
 
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Joined 2018
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Thanks paczeltf, I did not know that. I ask because at checkout from a shop I noticed the option for getting matched pairs:

I suppose I thought there was one 12AU7 per channel, and that perhaps they had to be sufficiently similar in order for both left and right to sound the same.

Do you mean that this is not a concern and that any two 12AU7 of the same model should be fine?
It is not clear what they mean by "matched/balanced one tube", but I suspect that the two triodes in the same tube are matched. That does not help that much, because the TU-8200 uses one tube for each channel, so what you would really need is that triode1 from the first tube matches triode1 in the second tube, and triode2 in both tubes are also similar. In my experience the differences in these types of tubes are not very big though.
 
Just built an Elekit PS-3249R (all the components are soldered using the obvious info in the instructions, and the photograph) for installation in my 8200. Now it's time to set the jumpers (J1-J11). My Japanese is non-existent.

Anyone here have an English instruction translation or a photo of your completed unit that allow the correct jumpers? I plan to use the DAC as designed for the 8200. USB from my Apple laptop, and the external wire to the RCA #2 input.
jumper settings - DAC.jpg here you go - the circled places are the settings I used for exactly the same setup as you have. Works great.