Power transformer, OPTs, internal wiring, heaters all produce noise or signal interference. An MM phono preamp has about 1000x gain at 50-60 Hz, MC pickups require 15-20x more.
The Mission was designed with the phono preamp. Small layout changes can make a lot of difference.
The Mission was designed with the phono preamp. Small layout changes can make a lot of difference.
Not sure I understand the basis of this comment - be aware that the "internal" DAC utilizes input two, leaving the only free input as input one. The DAC has a 1/8" audio cable that connects to the 3-pole mini-jack on Input 2, which has priority over the RCA. The advantage of the internal DAC is one less box on your shelf with one less power cable to plug in (and perhaps neater wiring setup for signals).
I also purchased the PS-3249 together with the TU-8200. It is a good soldering exercise, but I never put that into the amp not just because of the additional external mini-jack cable, but also because this amp deserves a proper external DAC.
The phono board would have to use an additional pair of RCA inputs so it could not be implemented without additional casework even if it could be powered via USB.
The phono board would have to use an additional pair of RCA inputs so it could not be implemented without additional casework even if it could be powered via USB.
I see. Thank you. I was wondering what the 1/8" jack was for and now understand.
For me, I use external DAC because I need Coax connection with my streamer and Optical connection for my CD transport so external DAC is the only option and DAC technology changes so fast so I personally would prefer external DAC and have phono board built in instead if possible.
This may be crazy and what if phono board is sealed with thin aluminium case and mount inside where optional DAC board is meant to be mounted?
This is just asking and I might use PS-3250 with external chassis with 12V battery powered.
I have a 1000uf/450v electro cap with standard pcb mount in my stash. Would it be ok for the PS? (the amp will be topless for now, so it will physically fit on the backside)
These PS modules are solid state and require a few volts of power supply (5V is available via USB), what do you want to do with a 450V cap?
Sorry I didn't explain better, thx for the response.
I just want to sub it for the stock 180uf PS cap. I may (or may not) have read something about inrush current and the bridge rectifier in relation to a large cap here....
I just want to sub it for the stock 180uf PS cap. I may (or may not) have read something about inrush current and the bridge rectifier in relation to a large cap here....
The inrush current is not a big issue due to the limitations of the power transformer. The PTC before the bridge may get activated though.
I use a 330uF/400V snap-in cap in my amp and it fits the space, but that is the original model, which does not have a PTC at the same place.
I use a 330uF/400V snap-in cap in my amp and it fits the space, but that is the original model, which does not have a PTC at the same place.
Must power be turned off before switching between inputs?
Hi all - I'm a proud owner of an Elekit TU-8200R (with a recently installed PS-3249R, FWIW). The "Operation Check" of the build instructions tell you to turn OFF the power before disconnecting headphones and a sound source connected to Input2 - the connect a sound source to Input1. Turn back on to check the sound, etc. from Input1.
All well and good: but once the amplifier passes these initial checks - is it still necessary to turn the power off before switching between inputs? I would find this a bit strange, but better to be safe than sorry with expensive tubes, etc. Thanks in advance -
Hi all - I'm a proud owner of an Elekit TU-8200R (with a recently installed PS-3249R, FWIW). The "Operation Check" of the build instructions tell you to turn OFF the power before disconnecting headphones and a sound source connected to Input2 - the connect a sound source to Input1. Turn back on to check the sound, etc. from Input1.
All well and good: but once the amplifier passes these initial checks - is it still necessary to turn the power off before switching between inputs? I would find this a bit strange, but better to be safe than sorry with expensive tubes, etc. Thanks in advance -
Turn off the amp when connecting or disconnecting a source to the input.
Turn down the volume when switching between inputs or connecting/disconnecting headphones.
Turn down the volume when switching between inputs or connecting/disconnecting headphones.
thanks!
perfect - what I would have thought from other contexts, but very nice to have this confirmed.
perfect - what I would have thought from other contexts, but very nice to have this confirmed.
Hi1
I have the 8200R with kt88 power tubes in it. I have had them in for a good while now.
I was playing a CD when in the third song the amp volume went to about half for some reason. The volume controll was at 1/4.
Do you think the automatic bias may have changed for some reason?
Has this happened to any one else?
I have the 8200R with kt88 power tubes in it. I have had them in for a good while now.
I was playing a CD when in the third song the amp volume went to about half for some reason. The volume controll was at 1/4.
Do you think the automatic bias may have changed for some reason?
Has this happened to any one else?
Did this happen to both channels at the same time? Did you try connecting your CD player to another amp?
Well now!
The 8200R seems fine today. I tried the same thing again and today the amp seems fine.
Same 1/4 volume and even same CD.
Will need more experimenting.
And yes it was both channels last time.
electronics is fun!
The 8200R seems fine today. I tried the same thing again and today the amp seems fine.
Same 1/4 volume and even same CD.
Will need more experimenting.
And yes it was both channels last time.
electronics is fun!
I’ve recently inherited an Elekit TU-8200R without an instruction manual! I’ve tried the Elekit site and emailed them to no avail. I can find an Elekit TU-8200 manual online but not the 8200R. Does anyone have an English pdf version available? I’m desperate to start soldering…
Hi Folks!
I bought the original 8200 already assembled about a year ago. The instructions stated that it is suitable for 16-600 ohm headphones. Recently I realized my mistake by reading this thread. I have 2 headphones Audeze lcd2nf and audio-technica W5000. The sound of the headphones was fine for me, but there was a feeling that sound was somehow strange.
After reading this thread, there are the following ideas on how you can try 8200 with my headphones:
1. bypass the resistors P41 and P42 and try using your headphones through jack 6.3. Replace the 50 ohm potentiometer with 100 ohm to increase the volume adjustment range.
2. Try to connect headphones to the speaker output and see how it will be before doing any manipulations from idea number 1.
I am afraid of damaging the amplifier itself or the headphones in doing so. Except the too high signal level passing to the headphone accidentally, what other issues can I face with?
Thank you for any advice!
I bought the original 8200 already assembled about a year ago. The instructions stated that it is suitable for 16-600 ohm headphones. Recently I realized my mistake by reading this thread. I have 2 headphones Audeze lcd2nf and audio-technica W5000. The sound of the headphones was fine for me, but there was a feeling that sound was somehow strange.
After reading this thread, there are the following ideas on how you can try 8200 with my headphones:
1. bypass the resistors P41 and P42 and try using your headphones through jack 6.3. Replace the 50 ohm potentiometer with 100 ohm to increase the volume adjustment range.
2. Try to connect headphones to the speaker output and see how it will be before doing any manipulations from idea number 1.
I am afraid of damaging the amplifier itself or the headphones in doing so. Except the too high signal level passing to the headphone accidentally, what other issues can I face with?
Thank you for any advice!
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