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DX Blame Group Buy

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Big surprise!

The etching company dispatched my order even yesterday and already shipped the PCBs.

If you want to know where the PCBs are right now: this is the tracking code:

DHL | Tracking | English

So it won't take long anymore until I will send you the PCBs.

I wonder if I will get the Builder's Manual done before you have them.
I am working hard on this.

Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos
 
Mouser BOM

I put the BOM for one Blame ST channel in Mouser. I tried to follow Carlos' (and Metal's) instructions as closely as possible, and chose components that are available in single units. I also tried to pick high reliability components (especially electrolytics). The BOM does not include the fuse holder, connectors, heatsink, etc.

The most difficult part to find was the 0r22 5W resistor, and I'm not quite sure I've picket the right one (non-inductive).

I would appreciate any comments on my part selection. Please feel free to use the list as you wish.

Regards,
Nikolay

http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=67fa774aa1
 
@Rudi:

This is great news... exciting. I can't wait to build the amp and hear its sound. Again, thank you very much for organizing the group buy, Rudi!

As for speakers, I am thinking of building Troels' DTQWT at some point (DTQWT-mkII). I just like the way they look and reading about them, it seems they are outstanding speakers.

Regards,
Nikolay
 
Good morning Nicolay,

thank you very much for creating the public order.
Let me give you some remarks on it.

You need 4 "big" (5W) resistors for one PCB: R26 - R29.
These 4 resistors have a spacing of 22 mm (hole-to-hole) on the PCB.
Please check this regarding your order.

I like very much: Vishay RWM0622R220JA15E1 or a MPC71 type of resistor in this place.

There are 2 100 Ohm resistors soldered on the copperside of the PCB, across the fuses which are used for adjustment only.
You can take any type there.

All other resistors are 0.25 Watt; you can even use these for R3 (on the input) because metall-resistors are normally rated at 0.6 Watt.

Take one supplier for optical reasons, please.

C23 is a 100V 47nF cap - the Zobel cap. You remembered - very good.

Please use MICA caps for capacitors with a value less than 1nF.
For example:

Use Cornell Dubilier 598-CD15FD101FO3F instead of the TDK cap.

C1 will be a problem.
The best way is not to use C1 at all.
But only if you are 100% sure that no DC voltage will be applied to the input!
What type of source will you use? Does it decouple DC on the output?

If you are not sure (I am not sure either): use a MKT- (or even MKP) - cap as C1. Do not use WIMA MKS.

Mouser offers EPCOS B32562J1106K? 10 µF MKT, PCM 15 mm: perfect.

The EPCOS will give you a beautiful sound.

Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos

P.S. Nikolay: do not forget and order the mechanical components as well: heatsink, washer, 6.3mm spades, AKL PCB connectors, ...
 
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Rudi,

Thank you very much for the pointers. This is my first project and quite honestly, I didn't know where to start with the tens and tens of parts available. Your input is much appreciated.

I tried picking all Vishay resistors, but some of the values are offered in large quantities only. Perhaps I can replace all metal film resistors with KOA Speer. Does the tolerance matter too much? I picked R's with <=1% tolerance. If I use 5%, I can probably do all Vishay R's.

Same goes for the caps - some come in large quantities only. Is there a reason to avoid WIMA in general, or is it application specific.

I'll use a PC source in the beginning, but the ultimate goal is to have a DAC feeding the DX. I can't be 100% that no DC voltage is applied to the input, so I'd rather use C1.

I'll do some more digging through Mouser later today and incorporate all your remarks in the BOM. Again, thank you Rudi.

Best regards,
Nikolay

ps. I intentionally left the mechanical components out. I'll probably source them from a local hardware store.
 
@ chlorofille: good to know. The DTQWT's are 95db and 6 ohms minimum impedance, so i expect the system to perform very well.

@ meanman: thanks for the input. I'll definitely use C1.

I haven't decided whether I want to build an ES or ST yet. What are the sonic differences between the two? I may end up testing which one I like more before I make up my mind..... any thoughts?
 
Here an ES sample...this recorded using electret condenser microphone

using standard speakers, from a Nedherlands Phillips micro system..... the electret condenser is a Panasonic WM-61 (I think)...and you can see the ES audio quality...the ES is awsome, has more dinamic, more brigthness in the treble, less bass and the realism is unbeatable...but, it is a little but unstable and also has not academical solutions..something there is considered by High Level Engineers as designer erros..... the ST is less good....but also impressive.

I suggest, to everybody, to build both...one channel ST and other channel ES...compare by yourself and make your own review to us.

Listen this at maximum volume, plug your computer to a good audio amplifier (adjust it flat, without loudness and filters)..if you can plug it direct into the power amplifier and adjust volume in your computer...use very good speakers...you may have some small distortions in the bass..saturation because microphone..but you may feel the "spirit"..the unbeatable performance of the ES.

ST is more politically accepted..to avoid engineers to be buzzing around...the ES is the ultimate performer.

YouTube - Blame, the sound machine!

regards,

Carlos
 
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@ Nikcho,

5% tolerance for the resistors is o.k. I never used others.

WIMA capacitors are good, no doubt.

But do not use a MKS capacitor on the input.
I prefer a MKT- or even MKP - capacitor on this position.

I will get the "BX Blame Builder's Manual" done tomorrow.
I will send it to your EMail adresses.

The PCBs are on board of a 747 right now with target: Frankfurt / Germany.
I think they will arrive there tomorrow morning.

Best regards - Rudi_Ratlos
 
Thank you for the input, Carlos.

I will most definitely build one channel of each and compare, before I make up my mind. won't drive to high levels at all (considering I am looking at high efficiency speakers), so I hope I won't see any stability issues with the ES.

Now I need to find a suitable chassis for the DX.

Regards,
Nikolay
 
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