Thanks for the input, I do have a Miro Dac, have built a couple now.... didn't I send you a PCB? Singapore?!.*edit just seen your last post above)! My latest has the EUVL discrete IV and I built a D1 IV too.
It is an enjoyable project but like you say Richard's DACs are very much 'up there'. I have a PhiDeca DAC fed from Ian's Fifo , powered by Salas Ubib. Sounds awesome. Replaced an Ian ESS DAC with it and all its awkward PSU requirements.
Looking forward to the Dorati
It is an enjoyable project but like you say Richard's DACs are very much 'up there'. I have a PhiDeca DAC fed from Ian's Fifo , powered by Salas Ubib. Sounds awesome. Replaced an Ian ESS DAC with it and all its awkward PSU requirements.
Looking forward to the Dorati
Hi Richard,
If Dorati is strictly used as a source feeding a preamp only, not with headphones or driving an amplifier direct, would you omit or change values of any components in the output stage?
If Dorati is strictly used as a source feeding a preamp only, not with headphones or driving an amplifier direct, would you omit or change values of any components in the output stage?
Hi Vunce - if the load is high impedance I might reduce the bias in the output stage so as to draw less power from the supply. This wouldn't make it sound any better its just a touch 'greener' to run it cooler. Increase R32 and R44 to 47ohm (from 30ohm). I might also use film caps in place of electrolytics (C11,C16) but those would have to be off-board.
I believe 22K is the lowest input impedance preamp in my stable.
I’m not bothered by Dorati running warm, probably won’t do that mod just to lower the bias. Would R17, R50 be required at all in this scenario?
I’m not bothered by Dorati running warm, probably won’t do that mod just to lower the bias. Would R17, R50 be required at all in this scenario?
If you take out R17 and R50 then connecting the DAC to a preamp might give an audible 'clunk' as the output caps charge. Those resistors are an attempt to pre-charge the output caps as soon as power's applied to the DAC.
Thanks Abrax!
I guess the output resistor isn't a must do re tweaks, but the output cap could be worth exploring depending on the impedance to be driven.
Wonder how various PS caps could react
Need to move house and build one 🙂
I guess the output resistor isn't a must do re tweaks, but the output cap could be worth exploring depending on the impedance to be driven.
Wonder how various PS caps could react
Need to move house and build one 🙂
Finished my psu for Dorati last night, using a MC7812CT regulator - but it only pumps out 11.5V
Will that be ok for Dorati? I was hoping for a little more than 12V rather than less.
Will that be ok for Dorati? I was hoping for a little more than 12V rather than less.
Thanks for the additional info Abrax, I don’t ever use HP’s and mostly ignore that part of our hobby. I should probably pay more attention there 🙂
With a pair of Drop HD6XX and a Dorati you've gotten yourself very simple and comfortable output to hang off a PC or tablet...
Dorati on my bench tonight. First sorted out the psu. Now pumping out 14.4V and I am happy with that. Started soldering Step 1 components and overcame my biggest anxiety - getting those dac chips soldered to the board. Should be downhill from here, but I won't relax until the measurements are ok. Getting excited to finish this DAC, but the enclosure must also be made sometime.
So, it looks like 220uF Silmics might be a good option for outputs caps? I have also read good things about Nichicon Muse UES series non-polar caps, but can non-polars be used here?
So, it looks like 220uF Silmics might be a good option for outputs caps? I have also read good things about Nichicon Muse UES series non-polar caps, but can non-polars be used here?
My downhill is more rocky than I hoped. Please help - I have no idea what to do with R23. I see a couple of 0R resistors and assume they have some part to play here, but there are 3 solder pads. Do I have to choose between two pads, based on what? Sorry for the noob question.
