Indeed, the sanders design!
I'm working on the color results still. Its slow going because I live in a small apt in the city and the speakers are at my girlfriends house about 45 mins away so I only get to work on weekends really.
Once I get my spray gun up and running I'll send picks of the color samples. It seems a bit of a shame to cover up all that figure with black dye, but the final result looks much more subtle and less gaudy in my opinion with the grain patturn only apparent upon closer inspection.
-Wes
I'm working on the color results still. Its slow going because I live in a small apt in the city and the speakers are at my girlfriends house about 45 mins away so I only get to work on weekends really.
Once I get my spray gun up and running I'll send picks of the color samples. It seems a bit of a shame to cover up all that figure with black dye, but the final result looks much more subtle and less gaudy in my opinion with the grain patturn only apparent upon closer inspection.
-Wes
Hello,
This is taking forever! But I'm about ready to iron on the large veneer sheets to the speakers. Also, the plaster of paris pore filling seems to work quite well now (I switched from RIT dye to an analine dye sold by constantines.)
Mark, I was just wondering if you had any suggestions about how to fill a large area with this method. From my experience, the plaster tends to dry up in about 15-20 minutes. This would make it difficult to cover a whole side before my stock dries out. But I think that doing on area at a time might leave an uneven appearance. I guess if I really had to I could enlist a helper and just work as fast as possible. Any suggestions?
Also, can anyone expand on the tapping veneer corners with a hammer to get a nice edge? I'm having trouble visualizing how this would work.
Thanks!
-Wes
This is taking forever! But I'm about ready to iron on the large veneer sheets to the speakers. Also, the plaster of paris pore filling seems to work quite well now (I switched from RIT dye to an analine dye sold by constantines.)
Mark, I was just wondering if you had any suggestions about how to fill a large area with this method. From my experience, the plaster tends to dry up in about 15-20 minutes. This would make it difficult to cover a whole side before my stock dries out. But I think that doing on area at a time might leave an uneven appearance. I guess if I really had to I could enlist a helper and just work as fast as possible. Any suggestions?
Also, can anyone expand on the tapping veneer corners with a hammer to get a nice edge? I'm having trouble visualizing how this would work.
Thanks!
-Wes
Here ya go...it's not to scale 😉 ...or anything really, but should give you enough idea to go on...practice on a test box or something and it'll click in no time.
At first thought it doesn't seem like it would work that well but you'll be surprised at how well you can hide a seam this way...it's not as effective on paper backed stuff but still not bad.
At first thought it doesn't seem like it would work that well but you'll be surprised at how well you can hide a seam this way...it's not as effective on paper backed stuff but still not bad.
Attachments
This may be a stupid question,
Is the bonking done before or after pore filling/spray finishing?
-Wes
Is the bonking done before or after pore filling/spray finishing?
-Wes
PROGRESS!!!
Ok,
After traveling all over country for grad school interviews, actually graduating, finding an apt in a different state, and working far too much for my own good, I've managed to get some important work done.
Such as veneering and finally deciding on a finish (well almost).
Please see attached pics if anyone is still interested.
There will be a lot of them, so bear with me.
Ok,
After traveling all over country for grad school interviews, actually graduating, finding an apt in a different state, and working far too much for my own good, I've managed to get some important work done.
Such as veneering and finally deciding on a finish (well almost).
Please see attached pics if anyone is still interested.
There will be a lot of them, so bear with me.
Attachments
Last one!!
Sorry for all the posts, but its hard to get a feel for it with just one picture... especially with my photography skills.
This isn't done yet either... just to give an idea.
So far its dyed plaster that I rubbed in with a damp rag. Then I rubbed Boiled linseed oil into it.
I still need to spray laquer (with or without sealing with shellac first... I've not decided)
Sorry for all the posts, but its hard to get a feel for it with just one picture... especially with my photography skills.
This isn't done yet either... just to give an idea.
So far its dyed plaster that I rubbed in with a damp rag. Then I rubbed Boiled linseed oil into it.
I still need to spray laquer (with or without sealing with shellac first... I've not decided)
Attachments
QUESTIONS for the wise men!!
Ok, you knew it was coming!
Is it necessary (or advisable) to apply shellac after the linseed oil before the laquer?
Or is it possible to spray the laquer directly onto the boiled linseed oil?
Next, I've only used plaster on small areas thus far and I know that the stuff in the cup is going to dry up before I can finish a whole side.
Are there any suggestions to make things blend better?
Thanks
Wes
Ok, you knew it was coming!
Is it necessary (or advisable) to apply shellac after the linseed oil before the laquer?
Or is it possible to spray the laquer directly onto the boiled linseed oil?
Next, I've only used plaster on small areas thus far and I know that the stuff in the cup is going to dry up before I can finish a whole side.
Are there any suggestions to make things blend better?
Thanks
Wes
Re: QUESTIONS for the wise men!!
Have you applied the plaster and linseed oil to the cabinets, or just a sample?
Have you applied the plaster and linseed oil to the cabinets, or just a sample?
wrl said:
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