Re: Not annoying!
http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/samples/samples3.html
I think you can "figure" out which one I'm thinking of..
mwmkravchenko said:
http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/samples/samples3.html
I think you can "figure" out which one I'm thinking of..
Thanks Scott, I'm guessing the itailan elm... 
It looks like thats paperbacked and available in thicker sizes. The one nice thing about the item from constantines is that since its man-made, the peices are much easier to match as the grain patturn is very consistent. But I'll definitely consider it if the other stuff doesn't work out.
BTW, that site has a lot of useful info about application too. Thanks again.
-Wes
It looks like thats paperbacked and available in thicker sizes. The one nice thing about the item from constantines is that since its man-made, the peices are much easier to match as the grain patturn is very consistent. But I'll definitely consider it if the other stuff doesn't work out.
BTW, that site has a lot of useful info about application too. Thanks again.
-Wes
BTW, Mark... I've been reading about the iron on-wood glue method and it sounds rather appealing. My issues are:
1) St. Louis is ridiculously humid, but I may be moving to a less humid environment in a few years so I don't know if the change will cause problems with either method.
2) My cabinets are large... ~5 feet tall. I was worried about the hide glue cooling before I got a chance to finish the side.
Any additional comments? Thanks again for all your help so far.
-Wes
1) St. Louis is ridiculously humid, but I may be moving to a less humid environment in a few years so I don't know if the change will cause problems with either method.
2) My cabinets are large... ~5 feet tall. I was worried about the hide glue cooling before I got a chance to finish the side.
Any additional comments? Thanks again for all your help so far.
-Wes
wrl said:Thanks Scott, I'm guessing the itailan elm...
It looks like thats paperbacked and available in thicker sizes. The one nice thing about the item from constantines is that since its man-made, the peices are much easier to match as the grain patturn is very consistent. But I'll definitely consider it if the other stuff doesn't work out.
BTW, that site has a lot of useful info about application too. Thanks again.
-Wes
yup, the medium version..
btw, it is also man-made.. virtually anytime you see "Italian" referenced to a veneer it is a man-made product. It is however considerably more expensive than the stuff from Constantines (but those who have purchased veneer from them have unanimously praised the veneer they have chosen).
It never rains it pours!
It has escalated from finish the wiring and assemble a shop to:
MOVE.... AH!
I hate moving
So now what I am doing is trying to packup and get my stuff together. I was moving in December now I am getting out by Oct 1st. So time is getting short.
I will post a detailed think that I have done. But after work tonight. Sorry for the wait!
Mark
It has escalated from finish the wiring and assemble a shop to:
MOVE.... AH!
I hate moving
So now what I am doing is trying to packup and get my stuff together. I was moving in December now I am getting out by Oct 1st. So time is getting short.
I will post a detailed think that I have done. But after work tonight. Sorry for the wait!
Mark
Ok, so I'm about to place an order from joewoodworker.com My list is as follows:
1) Gallon of Better Bond Heat-Lock glue $34.95
2) Veneer Saw $12.65
3) Transtint black dye $12.30
My questions are as follows:
1) Is the heat lock glue better than normal tightbond glue? Does anyone have any experience with this?
2) The transtint dye can be mixed with water or alcohol, the heat lock glue said not to use water based finishes, will the alcohol have a similar effect or should it be ok? Also, what is a good way to apply this to a large surface... I don't want to drop hundreds on a spray system if I can help it.
3) I was thinking about shellac for final finishing, unless someone has a different suggestion.
4) Is there anything else I won't be able to get at home depot that I might need?
Mark, I'll try to do the plaster of paris method on a small sample if I can find it locally.
Thanks in advance,
Wes
1) Gallon of Better Bond Heat-Lock glue $34.95
2) Veneer Saw $12.65
3) Transtint black dye $12.30
My questions are as follows:
1) Is the heat lock glue better than normal tightbond glue? Does anyone have any experience with this?
2) The transtint dye can be mixed with water or alcohol, the heat lock glue said not to use water based finishes, will the alcohol have a similar effect or should it be ok? Also, what is a good way to apply this to a large surface... I don't want to drop hundreds on a spray system if I can help it.
3) I was thinking about shellac for final finishing, unless someone has a different suggestion.
4) Is there anything else I won't be able to get at home depot that I might need?
Mark, I'll try to do the plaster of paris method on a small sample if I can find it locally.
Thanks in advance,
Wes
Wes I promise to answer what I can tonight!
Veneer saw????? What fo? Use sharp knife!
Questions:
1 No idea will check it out
2 Brush will work. Use alcohol ( methyl hydrate ). PRACTICE FIRST!
3 Good base coat. No durability as a top coat.
4 A helper. Wait a minute there are cute girls at my home depot. Hmmmmm!?!?
HOME DESPOT has plaster of Paris. Not made in PAris but what the hell.
Mark not nuts just over tired.
Veneer saw????? What fo? Use sharp knife!
Questions:
1 No idea will check it out
2 Brush will work. Use alcohol ( methyl hydrate ). PRACTICE FIRST!
3 Good base coat. No durability as a top coat.
4 A helper. Wait a minute there are cute girls at my home depot. Hmmmmm!?!?
HOME DESPOT has plaster of Paris. Not made in PAris but what the hell.
Mark not nuts just over tired.
haha, no cute girls at my home depot... oh well.
I wasn't thinking of getting a veneer saw until I read several posts here on diyaudio from people recommending it. It looks strikingly similar to a "razor saw" that I used to use for RC airplanes.
No worries about the delay. I've been reading up on the info on PVA glues here at diyaudio and I am leaning toward that method. I like the durability of hide glue, but application seems more difficult.
Oh, an I have a helper... (read girlfriend) ... if I have to go shopping for clothes, she has to help position veneer
Anyway thanks again,
Wes
I wasn't thinking of getting a veneer saw until I read several posts here on diyaudio from people recommending it. It looks strikingly similar to a "razor saw" that I used to use for RC airplanes.
No worries about the delay. I've been reading up on the info on PVA glues here at diyaudio and I am leaning toward that method. I like the durability of hide glue, but application seems more difficult.
Oh, an I have a helper... (read girlfriend) ... if I have to go shopping for clothes, she has to help position veneer
Anyway thanks again,
Wes
Free moment
Ichecked up on the Heat lock and the tint.
The heat lock looks interesting. Should work well on broad curves or flats. Go for it.
The tint. Looks like a money grab. What I was sugesting can be found in the masonary section for tinting concrete. It is just a coloured powder. In your case a dark one.
SOme veneering tips.
Place the veneer on the box with the box laying at a comfortable postion and height. Do a dry run. Preferably when it looks god tape down the beginining edge to work like a hinge. It will allow everything to be aligned later. If you can wrap the corners. With the right touch on the sanding before hand and a good technique you can wrap a corner that is really a small radius. Looks a lot better than pieced corners. One other tip with the iron. If you have a newer one with a coating great. If you have one with an aluminum bottom you may want to use a dry cloth to back it up. Aluminum leaves black marks that you have to clean off later.
Hope this helps!
Mark
Ichecked up on the Heat lock and the tint.
The heat lock looks interesting. Should work well on broad curves or flats. Go for it.
The tint. Looks like a money grab. What I was sugesting can be found in the masonary section for tinting concrete. It is just a coloured powder. In your case a dark one.
SOme veneering tips.
Place the veneer on the box with the box laying at a comfortable postion and height. Do a dry run. Preferably when it looks god tape down the beginining edge to work like a hinge. It will allow everything to be aligned later. If you can wrap the corners. With the right touch on the sanding before hand and a good technique you can wrap a corner that is really a small radius. Looks a lot better than pieced corners. One other tip with the iron. If you have a newer one with a coating great. If you have one with an aluminum bottom you may want to use a dry cloth to back it up. Aluminum leaves black marks that you have to clean off later.
Hope this helps!
Mark
A couple tpis from me as well; pieced corners can look good if a radius is not an option; to get them to look good I use a wooden mallet to gently mash the perpendicular edges together, many, many tiny taps.
If you're placing an order with joewoodworker order some venner softening spray as well, it facilitates wraping radius corners, helps protect against accidental splitting and chipping by making the veneer pliable. There are home-grown recipes for a softening agent as well, but they're all a PITA compared to the commercial stuff, IME.
You probably don't need to worry about black marks from an old iron if you're tinting the wood that colour, but watch against denting the wood by pushing too hard and not keeping the iron perfectly flat.
I like shellac, but only for french polish. My favorite finish has become wipe on poly, followed by wax, for nearly everything. Minwax wipe on poly has always worked well for me; the current issue of Fine Woodworker features a wipe on finish shootout in which the minwax took top honors despite being cheapest. I don't like the 'gloss' personally, it amplifies any unfilled grain and unless I finish sand the final coat it makes the wood look fake...the 'satin' is much nicer and looks more natural. The Poly doesn't tint the wood amber as much as (standard)shellac, so if a more golden/amber hue is desired an application of tung oil before the poly looks great, but I recommend a 72hr wait between the tung and poly.
And, again, practise all techniques and combinations thereof, 'till you get the result you're after.
Mark, I have always used pumice to grain fill but have been trying plaster recently, I have had good results but it's been more work than it seemingly should. I'm having problems rubbing it in evenly, it dreis damn quickly and rrrreally gums up the rag. I end up laying it on a bit thick then sanding it flat and applying oil to turn it transparent...any pointers?
If you're placing an order with joewoodworker order some venner softening spray as well, it facilitates wraping radius corners, helps protect against accidental splitting and chipping by making the veneer pliable. There are home-grown recipes for a softening agent as well, but they're all a PITA compared to the commercial stuff, IME.
You probably don't need to worry about black marks from an old iron if you're tinting the wood that colour, but watch against denting the wood by pushing too hard and not keeping the iron perfectly flat.
I like shellac, but only for french polish. My favorite finish has become wipe on poly, followed by wax, for nearly everything. Minwax wipe on poly has always worked well for me; the current issue of Fine Woodworker features a wipe on finish shootout in which the minwax took top honors despite being cheapest. I don't like the 'gloss' personally, it amplifies any unfilled grain and unless I finish sand the final coat it makes the wood look fake...the 'satin' is much nicer and looks more natural. The Poly doesn't tint the wood amber as much as (standard)shellac, so if a more golden/amber hue is desired an application of tung oil before the poly looks great, but I recommend a 72hr wait between the tung and poly.
And, again, practise all techniques and combinations thereof, 'till you get the result you're after.
Mark, I have always used pumice to grain fill but have been trying plaster recently, I have had good results but it's been more work than it seemingly should. I'm having problems rubbing it in evenly, it dreis damn quickly and rrrreally gums up the rag. I end up laying it on a bit thick then sanding it flat and applying oil to turn it transparent...any pointers?
Plastered ?
QUOTE]Mark, I have always used pumice to grain fill but have been trying plaster recently, I have had good results but it's been more work than it seemingly should. I'm having problems rubbing it in evenly, it dreis damn quickly and rrrreally gums up the rag. I end up laying it on a bit thick then sanding it flat and applying oil to turn it transparent...any pointers?[/QUOTE]
I've only had one ocifer!
If you are using the plaster of paris keep it a runny oatmeal consistency. To thick will cause you problems. Use a broad spatula and press it in like you would when doing drywall taping. Leave a thin film of plaster. About 1/32" not to hard when you are doing it. Let it dry and then sand it out. Should work. It's like all tips. They only work once you get the hang of it.
Your tip on the corners is a good one. Honestly never thought about it that way.
Using pumice is always a gamble in the silicone contamination russian roulet game. You will eventually get burned! Plaster of paris is easier to apply, sand and it almost never contains silicone.
Fun FUn
Mark Mark
QUOTE]Mark, I have always used pumice to grain fill but have been trying plaster recently, I have had good results but it's been more work than it seemingly should. I'm having problems rubbing it in evenly, it dreis damn quickly and rrrreally gums up the rag. I end up laying it on a bit thick then sanding it flat and applying oil to turn it transparent...any pointers?[/QUOTE]
I've only had one ocifer!
If you are using the plaster of paris keep it a runny oatmeal consistency. To thick will cause you problems. Use a broad spatula and press it in like you would when doing drywall taping. Leave a thin film of plaster. About 1/32" not to hard when you are doing it. Let it dry and then sand it out. Should work. It's like all tips. They only work once you get the hang of it.
Your tip on the corners is a good one. Honestly never thought about it that way.
Using pumice is always a gamble in the silicone contamination russian roulet game. You will eventually get burned! Plaster of paris is easier to apply, sand and it almost never contains silicone.
Fun FUn
Mark Mark
Just got my order .
Quick question, do you see any problem with using ethanol rather than methanol to dilute the dye? Its not quite as toxic and pretty easy to come by given that my lab uses spray bottles of the stuff to sterilize things.
Also, two more questions. If I can use ethanol... what percent 75% ok? Or does it need to be 95% or higher?
Finally, and this may be a stupid idea. Could the dye be applied by a plant mister? If not... I'll just brush it on.
Thanks again for all the help!
-Wes
. Quick question, do you see any problem with using ethanol rather than methanol to dilute the dye? Its not quite as toxic and pretty easy to come by given that my lab uses spray bottles of the stuff to sterilize things.
Also, two more questions. If I can use ethanol... what percent 75% ok? Or does it need to be 95% or higher?
Finally, and this may be a stupid idea. Could the dye be applied by a plant mister? If not... I'll just brush it on.
Thanks again for all the help!
-Wes
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.