Hi Don
I‘m not really the right person to answer this (by lack of knowledge) but I was asking/following those questions too.
The answers I got were more or less „doesn‘t matter, audiowise“ (diodes)—Main Argument seemed to be that the graetz bridges are smaller and cheaper.
If I get it correctly, there’s another way emerged: LT4320 based active rectifier ...
Concerning caps, it was „doesn‘t matter, as long as they‘re big“ („bloody big“).
Everyone seemed to prefer to—ahem—oversize the caps.
The single package bridges have the advantage of being small, easy to use, inexpensive, and bulletproof. I’ve built most of my amps with them and they work beautifully.
I’m starting to have a strong preference for big fancy (fast) diodes lately, the FEP30DP is outstanding in power amps.
All diodes/bridges are greatly improved when a properly designed snubber is used.
I’m starting to have a strong preference for big fancy (fast) diodes lately, the FEP30DP is outstanding in power amps.
All diodes/bridges are greatly improved when a properly designed snubber is used.
A nice property of bridge assemblies in the "GBPC" package is: you can bolt them to the chassis floor or to one of the heatsinks, for excellent dissipation of diode generated heat. And the body is electrically isolated from the four I/O terminals so you don't need an insulator; just smear on a little thermally conductive paste, smooth it out, and bolt er down.
My most recent preamp / linestage power supply PCB uses bridge assemblies in the small and cute "KBP" package. This package has no bolt holes or other provisions for mounting to a heatsink, but then it's only rated for 2 amperes of forward current. Mouser Link
My most recent preamp / linestage power supply PCB uses bridge assemblies in the small and cute "KBP" package. This package has no bolt holes or other provisions for mounting to a heatsink, but then it's only rated for 2 amperes of forward current. Mouser Link
I share 6L6's preference for fast diodes with big heat sinks. Nothing rational about it; I don't try to justify it. I just enjoy the build.
Which ever you choose, you'll enjoy the music more because you built the amp. That's what's important to me.
Branching out
I didn't wait. I ordered the boards now that I am a seasoned pro at it(second time)
Mouser is next and then amazon for the scope. These diy projects are like a tree in spring time. Branches sprouting everywhere. Might even try those big diodes.
Thanks to all for thoughts and ideas.
Don
I didn't wait. I ordered the boards now that I am a seasoned pro at it(second time)
Mouser is next and then amazon for the scope. These diy projects are like a tree in spring time. Branches sprouting everywhere. Might even try those big diodes.Thanks to all for thoughts and ideas.
Don
Just out of curiosity: could the „ Supertech 4TTN T “ be used in the PSU V3? How‘d I geek them up?
(And are they any good, anyway?
(And are they any good, anyway?
Please on the Power supply board. has RS1 CS1 CX1 . the kit are not included. and I don't know the value. on the BOM. it write" See note 4" but I can not found where the "Note 4" see following photo.
Do I need them or any idea?
Do I need them or any idea?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Total newbie here- planning to build the F6. I'm fixing to order the 4U Deluxe Al chassis. I like the look of black- will I be missing out a lot by not getting the silver front panel with all its pre-tapped threads (which I don't plan to do myself...)? I got the Antek 400VA 20V- and it seems it'd fit on the bottom panel along with the PCB: I plan to use monolithic bridge rectifiers so I'll just snap off the rectifier part of the PCB. Seems it'll fit in the 300 x 360mm surface. Any thoughts welcome- thanks!
The tapped front panel is nice for spacing out a few things in your build if it's ever needed. I wouldn't consider it necessary.
You'll have a snug build with a 300mm deep chassis, but it will certainly work well - particularly if using monolithic bridges. There are a lot of example pictures that can help with layout choices. However, if you think that down the road you may want to re-purpose the chassis for other amps and/or try out dual mono - you may consider the 400mm deep version for $30 USD additional if you have space and funds. It is extremely versatile.
Also, having just a bit of extra space makes the layout easier for new builders. It certainly did for me. Someone can probably educate me, but I think in order to get the options you want re: deluxe (back panel and UMS sinks) in a 400mm deep version, you need to order the non-deluxe aluminum version and "add" the options for deluxe style rear panel and UMS heatsinks. I haven't personally done this, but Jason and the store team are phenomenal and can help you out. Also, Modushop has been fantastic with any requests I've had.
Additional suggestions if you haven't already considered - I'd recommend paying the few dollars for an extra set of hardware ($5) ... I always drop a screw or two. Also, the rear panel kit is awesome for new builders. It saved me a lot of headaches and in addition to nice quality IEC, speaker, and input hardware, it comes with all the hardware for mounting your boards and output devices also. It looks to be sold out at the moment, but they're usually reasonably fast on replenishment.
Enjoy the build!
You'll have a snug build with a 300mm deep chassis, but it will certainly work well - particularly if using monolithic bridges. There are a lot of example pictures that can help with layout choices. However, if you think that down the road you may want to re-purpose the chassis for other amps and/or try out dual mono - you may consider the 400mm deep version for $30 USD additional if you have space and funds. It is extremely versatile.
Also, having just a bit of extra space makes the layout easier for new builders. It certainly did for me. Someone can probably educate me, but I think in order to get the options you want re: deluxe (back panel and UMS sinks) in a 400mm deep version, you need to order the non-deluxe aluminum version and "add" the options for deluxe style rear panel and UMS heatsinks. I haven't personally done this, but Jason and the store team are phenomenal and can help you out. Also, Modushop has been fantastic with any requests I've had.
Additional suggestions if you haven't already considered - I'd recommend paying the few dollars for an extra set of hardware ($5) ... I always drop a screw or two. Also, the rear panel kit is awesome for new builders. It saved me a lot of headaches and in addition to nice quality IEC, speaker, and input hardware, it comes with all the hardware for mounting your boards and output devices also. It looks to be sold out at the moment, but they're usually reasonably fast on replenishment.
Enjoy the build!
Plenty of room in the 4U Deluxe chassis, especially if mounting the toroid on an L-bracket. This may also help reduce hum pickup by the input transformer.
Here's my F6:
Attachments
Quasimodo is a fantastic excuse to buy an oscilloscope.
I did. Arrives Friday. Got my Quasimodo boards too. And the parts. And the no math transformer snubber Quasimodo test jig paper by MJ. Like all things DIY I just have to figure out how to use them
I keep getting sidetracked.
Redoing all my PS boards where that's an option.
May as well as my first question. What do you actually do on channel one of the scope to ping the transformer. Siglent SDS 1202x-e. Not much knowledge of scopes.
Thanks.
Don
Fidget, I posted on the Quasimodo thread but wanted to give you a shout out here. Scope arrives tomorrow as well as my boards. Thank you for your assist with the scope. You influenced me into the 200MHz scope. That will be a help to me as well as making it more fun.
Don